In Pictures: Todd Snyder’s first Woolrich Black Label collection revealed

American designer Todd Snyder’s first Woolrich Black Label collection debuted at a runway show during Pitti Uomo in Florence last week, and is now available for buyers to view in the Woolrich showroom in Milan.

The AW24 collection features two different lines, ‘Heritage’ and ‘Technical’, drawing on the brand’s rich past as well as utilising modern high performance fabrics.

‘Heritage’ features "sophisticated and luxurious" takes on iconic styles from Woolrich’s 190-year history, including the rugged wool ‘Buffalo Check Shirt’, updated in a refined cashmere, and a refresh of the Woolrich ‘Arctic Parka’, a style once worn by Admiral Richard E. Byrd, the leader of the first American scientific missions to the Antarctic.

Stand-out pieces include a number of styles that were traditionally developed as hard-working field clothing, but Snyder has "reinvented them for the modern day sartorialist". They include the ‘Military Trench’ that has a Merino shearling lining and a creamy white leather exterior, and the ‘Marled Cable Knit’ in a salt and pepper colour with a cowl neck, which is inspired by a traditional fisherman’s sweater.

Plaids, long a part of Woolrich’s DNA, are taken in a new fashion-forward direction and find their way onto cashmere overshirts with matching shorts and ties.

Henley tops, turtlenecks and Long Johns are also included as classic base layers, but given some polish in an Italian cashmere yarn.

Todd Snyder said: "It felt very fresh to start with rugged outdoor styles and then refresh them in more modern silhouettes and luxurious fabrics."

The ‘Technical’ collection marries high performance materials with Snyder’s signature sartorial touches. It is "designed to meet the high technical standards of serious outdoorsmen, while being chic enough for city dwellers".

Two different full-length parkas embody the ‘Technical’ aesthetic, including the ‘Birch Parka’ which has a shimmering drip-dyed nylon exterior from the legendary Olmetex mill, quilted onto a high pile sherpa interior. Then there’s the ‘Ripstop Parka’ in bright olive which has a 750 down fill power rating, resulting in a lightweight but super warm puffer jacket.

The ‘Ripstop Parachute Pant’ is based on a vintage military style and finished in an Italian nylon, and rounding out the technical offer are the ‘Alpine Boots’, functional yet luxurious with shearling interiors and suede or leather exteriors.

Snyder added: "The more I’ve worked on the Technical line, the more I’ve been excited about designing clothing that can handle the demands of the great outdoors and be the statement pieces in a city wardrobe."