Designers to watch in 2024
As we neared the end of 2023, there was a flurry of change in the air as Creative Directors stepped down and emerging or established designers stepped into the helm at major fashion houses.
A series of designers will be making their runway debuts this upcoming Fashion Week season, while others cement their artistic direction with the release of all-important second collections.
From Seán McGirr taking over at iconic British fashion house Alexander McQueen, to swirling rumours of Simon Porte joining Givenchy, TheIndustry.fashion has curated a list of names to watch in 2024 to keep you up to date in the new year.
Seán McGirr
Seán McGirr at Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen named rising design star Seán McGirr as Creative Director in October. The designer replaced Sarah Burton who showed her final collection SS24 at Paris Fashion Week.
McGirr joined the Kering-owned house from JW Anderson, where he had been head of ready-to-wear. McGirr joined JW Anderson in 2020 to head up the men’s collections, eventually adding womenswear to his responsibilities.
Sarah Burton had been the right-hand woman to the late Lee Alexander McQueen and took over the creative direction of the house following the designer's untimely death in 2010. She had been with the house for 26 years and was considered a direct design link to its trailblazing founder.
Despite it not yet being confirmed, we can presume that McGirr's first set of designs for McQueen will take to the runway in Paris during the next womenswear fashion week in February.
Louise Trotter
Louise Trotter at Carven
In February, Carven revealed Louise Trotter would take the helm as its Creative Director. Previously, Trotter was in charge at Lacoste for four years before moving to Carven. The house had originally been founded by Marie Louise Carven in 1945; she passed away in 2015 at age 105.
At the time of Trotter's appointment, we expected a clean aesthetic, with urban tailoring at its core and the September runway show didn't disappoint.
On the runway, the new Creative Director showed a series of sheer skirts, voluminous tops and jackets and tailored jackets that were well received by the audience. We await to see her latest works at Paris Fashion Week in February.
Sabato De Sarno
Sabato De Sarno at Gucci
Gucci, the jewel in the crown of the Kering fashion empire, named Valentino's Sabato De Sarno as its new Creative Director in January 2023. De Sarno replaced Alessandro Michele who, during his seven-year tenure, famously revived Gucci's fortunes with his eclectic "Gucci Geek" look.
Raised in Naples, De Sarno began his fashion career at Prada in 2005, before moving to Dole & Gabbana and then to Valentino in 2009.
His first collection for the storied Italian house was presented at Milan Fashion Week in September 2023. To say it was well received would be the understatement of the Fashion season. The show shed Michele's more is more aesthetic, opting for looks reminiscent of the Tom Ford for Gucci era. Lowkey luxury lovers celebrated the heritage House's move back to simpler silhouettes in understated 90s hues, patiently awaiting his second collection this spring.
Chemena Kamali
Chemena Kamali at Chloé
Chloé named Chemena Kamali as its new Creative Director replacing Gabriela Hearst in October 2023.
German designer Kamali, a graduate of Central Saint Martins, began her career at Chloé as part of Phoebe Philo's team and rejoined the house as design director under Clare Waight Keller in 2013. In 2016 she went on to join Yves Saint Laurent ready-to-wear design director under Anthony Vaccarello.
Her appointment at Chloé marks a "meaningful return for her and the brand", the company said. We await to see her first pre-collection for Chloé in Paris in January 2024, followed by her Fall-Winter 2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week in February 2024.
Peter Hawkings
Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford
American fashion designer Tom Ford stepped away from the eponymous brand he co-founded in 2005, following its sale to The Estée Lauder Companies last year. Ford’s longtime colleague Peter Hawkings has succeeded him as Creative Director.
Hawkings first began his career under Ford at Gucci in 1998. He then joined the Tom Ford brand in 2006 and most recently held the role of Senior Vice-President of Menswear.
As Creative Director, Hawkings will be the lead designer for the brand's fashion segment and fashion shows. He will be responsible for upholding the brand’s vision, ensuring consistency of creative direction and decisions across all fashion categories and ushering the Tom Ford brand into its next chapter.
Simon Porte Jacquemus
Simon Porte's potential at Givenchy
Simon Porte of Jacquemus has made quite a reputation for himself after founding his eponymous fashion label in 2009. The mid-level line brought something fresh and affordable to the scene with his use of smooth lines and bold monochromatic colour schemes.
Not only are his collections injecting a sense of playfulness into clothing once more, but his marketing ploys are also reinvigorating the space. From social media campaigns to Instagram-worthy catwalk shows set in meadows and even a collaboration with Nike, Jacquemus has re-written the rule book for fashion marketing.
After Givenchy announced Creative Director Matthew Williams' departure in December, Simon Porte posted a photo of Hubert de Givenchy's office on his personal Instagram account, leading to speculation that he's next in line to rule the roost at the French luxury house.
With the potential appointment of Simon Porte, Givenchy would have a recipe for success on their hands. Is a Givenchy renaissance on its way?
