The interview: Gillian Tusting, Head of Brand at Tusting, on the British leather goods brand's new direction

British luxury leather goods brand Tusting, which is a fifth generation family run business founded in 1875 which operates from a factory in the village of Lavendon in Buckinghamshire, has undergone something of a refresh for SS23.

While the company has earned an enviable reputation in the industry as ‘the maker's maker', creating for coveted luxury brands, such Aston Martin, Church's Shoes and Gleneagles, it has only more recently put a heightened focus on its own eponymous brand, and SS23 sees the unveiling of a fresh new direction for the brand.

In fact, over the past 18 months Tusting has quietly been working on evolving its traditional image and writing the next exciting chapter in the brand’s history - with the help of seasoned design creatives, ex-Kate Spade Creative Director, Deborah Lloyd, and Ally Capellino Founder and Creative Director, Alison Lloyd, who, only by sheer coincidence share the same surname. The result is a collection of “elevated, modern utilitarian shapes, designed for real life”.

All leather pieces are crafted in Tusting’s classic softly polished glossy 'Atlantic' leather and graced with a full lightweight leather lining, echoing Tusting's own iconic shoe-lining leather from the family tannery. Meanwhile, fabric and leather bags are constructed with Italian misto lino canvas, trimmed in Atlantic leather and again fully leather lined. The Tusting ‘T’ has also become central to establishing an understated yet recognisable signifier for the brand through the creation of new signature T-lock hardware in solid shiny brass. Tusting’s Head of Brand, Gillian Tusting, tells us all about the new direction.

Former Kate Spade creative director Deborah Lloyd and Ally Capellino founder Alison Lloyd have been providing creative input

Would you describe this as a relaunch for Tusting?

We recognised an opportunity to further develop the Tusting brand, building on the incredible craftsmanship foundations that have always been there. The process is more of an evolution than a relaunch. We have reappraised the logo and livery with the introduction of an oak crown motif, derived from our family crest, which features a crown made from acorns and oak leaves; oak is the core ingredient in the traditional method of tanning leather, so it is a dual reference to both our leather tanning heritage and our inherent Britishness.

We have also been carrying out development work on our ranges to bring a more contemporary fashion led look and feel. The first collection released is the ladies ‘Lavendon Collection’ – named after the town our factory is located. Alongside the new vision presented for women, the menswear range has also been refreshed, drawing on the brand's core DNA, brought forward with bold new colours and shapes.

Tusting SS23 Men's: all bags are manufactured in the UK from a factory in Buckinghamshire

How are you getting across this new direction?

There’s a step change in our brand creative too, and we’ve just launched our spring/summer campaign featuring the British actress Greta Bellamacina and her husband, the artist, Robert Montgomery. Shot and styled in the classic seaside setting of Hastings, East Sussex, by husband-and-wife team Brian Daly and Rachel Bakewell, ‘A Very British Summer’ shows the pair enjoying a weekend getaway at that revitalised British coastal escape that is Hastings, itself having undergone an image change over the past decade with the arrival of a fresh batch of creatives attracted by an established arts and music scene.

What would you say is Tusting’s real USP?

Tusting is a genuine maker brand and our customers understand that. They are hugely reassured, and sometimes frankly amazed as it is so rare now, to find that we make all our bags in our own UK workshop by our own team of craftspeople, many of whom have followed family members into the company. Unfortunately, so many brands celebrate being British as part of their identity but then quietly source their product in an off-shore factory. English craftsmanship is very highly regarded in other countries - a big portion of our business comes from the USA, for example - and more and more British shoppers are realising the value in it too.

Additionally, Tusting goods naturally incorporate a number of sustainable elements, from a choice of materials to the longevity of the product’s lifecycle, all backed up by the factory’s life-time repair service.

What’s the brand’s history?

Having originally owned and run its own tannery supplying shoemakers, the Tusting family have been key players in the British leather industry for almost 150 years. The recession in the ‘70s that saw brands moving production to the Far East eroded the tanning business, and Tusting’s own brand of handcrafted leather goods was born in a very organic way, just over 30 years ago, as a natural diversification. It has grown slowly alongside the leather business and is now a brand that inspires huge loyalty amongst its customers and is enjoying rapid growth in its customer base. Tusting has also long made the bags for some of the UK’s best known luxury labels. Each piece is lovingly crafted by second and third generation workers who have been trained in the art of leather goods making.

When did Tusting become part of Authentic Bespoke Limited?

Authentic Bespoke was formed late in 2019 by the owners of Tusting (the family), Budd Shirtmakers and a few enthusiastic private investors. As such, the Tusting family members are significant shareholders and very much still operating and managing the business. Authentic Bespoke is an ownership and investment group, however, the brands work independently.

Tusting SS23: prices range from £300 to £900 for handbags

When did ex-Kate Spade Creative Director Deborah Lloyd  get involved with Tusting?  

Deborah Lloyd was first introduced to Tusting in the latter part of 2021. She was really excited about the potential for what she describes as ‘an undiscovered British gem’ and was keen to get involved to help Tusting evolve its women’s offer. This has involved her contributing to creative direction for our new range, and she also invested in the company and is a Board Observer who contributes and advises at board meetings.

What input does she how have in the Tusting collections along with Ally Capellino Founder and Creative Director, Alison Lloyd?

Ally and Deborah have collaborated seamlessly with the in-house team and, going forward, Deborah will continue to supply her creative overview with detailed design work staying in-house.

What other plans do you have for Tusting?

The brand will continue to build on its reputation as one of the finest leather goods makers in the country, bringing those five generations of expertise to a wider and more contemporary audience. In particular, it will continue to collaborate with other like-minded British personalities and brands.

Where does Tusting currently sit in the leather goods sector?

Tusting is a premium brand making all of our own products in-house in the UK, priced to represent exceptional value for money for the informed shopper who appreciates craftsmanship and quality over brand hype.

Tusting SS23: providing timeless and ageless style

Who is the real target market?

Men and Women of any age who seek elegant and timeless style with genuine quality and understated branding. Typically, they are high-achieving professional people who are well-travelled, active and social.

Is Tusting looking to grow the wholesale side or is it focusing on direct to consumer?

We wholesale in Japan but elsewhere we mostly focus on our direct-to-consumer model which works well for us, so that’s where our main focus is. We are open to having one or two key wholesale accounts in the UK who can help get the name out there at scale, however it’s not our priority.

Does Tusting currently have any stores, and are there plans for any?

Currently, our only dedicated store is our shop at Tusting HQ in Lavendon, where we also have our workshop and which we have operated for many years. We know a Tusting store in London would be a great asset and it is a goal for us, but these spaces are very expensive to run and our current ecommerce model is the most efficient route to market for us to keep value high and prices affordable.

What are the key women’s pieces for SS23?

The stand-out piece within our new collection is undoubtedly the ‘Greta’. Named after Greta Bellamacina who features in our campaign its very adaptable, with two straps making it perfect to use as a clutch an over shoulder or a cross body. I also think ‘Edie’, a small chic tote that comes in full leather, or a linen/canvas and leather combination will be popular. After this, our core heroines, the little ‘Mini Holly’ and ‘Hettie’ bags and the long-time favourite, the ‘Kimbolton’ - for the working woman, will all be key.

What are the price points and who buys the most?

The prices vary from £300 to £900 for the ladies handbags, up to £1400 for luggage and often beyond for bespoke customisations. Our sales are currently about 60% women’s handbags and 40% luggage and men’s, but the customer base is pretty even, it’s just that women buy more often! However, we will be introducing some exciting new pieces and bold colours later this spring to extend our men’s offer.

What is Tusting’s take on sustainability?

That it should be genuine. We start from an ages-old position of upcycling a bi-product of the food industry and making beautiful but, most importantly, functional and long-lasting accessories. We offer a popular repair and refurbishment service to our customers to extend the already long lives of our products. So, this inherently sustainably product is our starting point, and we strive to look for every aspect in our production process that will allow us to build on that, for example, by only using leathers from tanneries that are gold standard certified for their environmental impact by the Leather Working Group.

Does Tusting have any interesting collaborations coming up?

We are currently working behind the scenes on new partnerships, but it is too soon to speak of them. All I can say is, watch this space!