Show review: No sign of an uplift at INDX Intimate Apparel

The malaise that afflicted large parts of the lingerie market in 2023 after the major boom of post-lockdown 2022 shows no signs of being lifted this year, according to buyers and exhibitors at this week’s INDX Intimate Apparel event (Sun-Tues, February 11-13).

A cautious approach to forward ordering and a reliance on leading brands that offer stock or “continuity” lines was the prevailing message from the event, which is organised by the AIS buying group, but is open to non-AIS retailers. About 130 exhibitors, showing lingerie, swimwear, nightwear and legwear for AW24, were at the Cranmore Park venue in Solihull, where the prevailing atmosphere on Monday was flat after a busy first day.

Alison Brooks, Elphicks of Farnham

In a determinedly positive mood, however, was Alison Brookes, group buyer at independent department store Elphicks of Farnham in Surrey: “If you buy for a bad season, you’re likely to have a bad season. We are located in a good town, with lots of independents, so we are somewhat cushioned from the cost of living pressures, even though it is on everyone’s mind. It’s all about perceived value of money. If something is special, the customer will pay for it. If someone is going on a £5,000 or £10,000 holiday, they’re not going to worry about paying a little more than last year for a swimsuit.”

Like most retailers, Brookes reported nightwear had been disappointing last autumn but, in contrast to many, she said lingerie had performed more strongly: “The warm weather in September held back nightwear sales but on lingerie we benefited from the closure of House of Fraser in nearby Guildford. Women come to us for a proper bra fitting service.

“During lockdown women moved away from underwired bras to comfort styles, but there has been a shift away from that now. The customer might still be dressing down in lingerie at home but she is dressing up to go out to feel special.”

Laura Magee, Ulster Stores

Laura Magee buys for the four department stores in the privately-owned Ulster Stores group – Moores of Coleraine and The White House, Portrush in Northern Ireland, Clares in Llandudno, north Wales and de Gruchy in St Helier, Jersey. Echoing a common theme, she confirmed trading conditions are “quite tough”, with “the cost of living is hitting people hard”.

“Even in tax-free Jersey people are focused on prices. Hitting the right price is key,” she said. “The result is I am going for safe buying for autumn, relying mainly on good, tried-and-tested performers like Eveden, Fantasie and Triumph, which also have good continuity programmes. I’ll be careful with new colourways too because taking a risk can end up costing you money.”

Denise Lestale and Shazia Akram, Peach & Petal

In similar mood were Denise Lesatele and Shazia Akram who opened the lingerie boutique Peach & Petal in Alcester, Warwickshire around 18 months ago. “In the current economic climate we have to be cautious because our customers are very price-conscious at present,” said Akram. “As newcomers, we have been very grateful for the support of suppliers like Mey, Lise Charmel, Empreinte and Prima Donna.”

The INDX show is only 20 minutes’ drive from Alcester, but buyers further afield were noticeably absent from the show by the second day. The closure of the M42 motorway on Sunday, combined with train cancellations from London due to a landslip, hit attendance on the first day, but most exhibitors seemed content with who they had seen, although a lack of Irish buyers was mentioned regularly.

Another factor appears to have been the debut of Wonderland, a small show in central London organised for a group of agents operating at a higher level than most at INDX Intimate Apparel. The AIS show’s attempt to cater for this important niche of the market is Boutique, a gathering of agencies in the Diamond Suite at the venue, separate to the main hall. It made its first appearance last season.

The strength of the various INDX fashion events is partly due to their no-frills, business-focused approach but it is under some pressure from some in the lingerie sector to improve the ambiance of the venue. It will be interesting to see how it meets the challenge.

Chris Eve, Patricia Eve

Chris Eve of importer-distributor Patricia Eve, which showed 10 lingerie, swimwear and nightwear collections in the Boutique area and had taken part in Wonderland, appreciates the efforts AIS has made to suit higher-level exhibitors: “We did not stop on Sunday, seeing half the people through appointments and half as walk-ons. They weren’t all necessarily placing orders, but they were here, which is the important part. Retailers didn’t hit their sales in the festive season, so it’s no surprise they are cautious.”

Eve was among those who noticed Irish buyers, who are generally enjoying better trading than their UK counterparts, were missing. He estimated his Irish footfall was about 60% down.

Susie Macpherson, Denise Shepherd and Jenny Pendegrass, Natori and Skarlett Blue

Back in the main hall Denise Shepherd, international sales director for US brands Natori and Skarlett Blue Lingerie, noted a good attendance by AIS member department stores such as Jarrold of Norwich and Browns of York. She pointed out suppliers’ service and reliability is an increasingly important factor for buyers: “This is our fifth season at INDX, so we are still a relative newcomer. Noticeably, in this post-Brexit era, usually the first thing many buyers ask about is our logistics, our warehousing, our deliveries – can we ship reliably? Then they ask about the margin. We are a well-organised large company, we don’t have big minimum orders and being American we have new styles introduced every quarter. About 80% of our UK sales are through our continuity lines.”

Irene Douglas, Sea Level

Although the July edition of INDX Intimate Apparel is the main swimwear show, several suppliers were present with swimwear collections. Irene Douglas of The Collections agency, who represents Sea Level Australia, and Simon Howard, who sells Moontide New Zealand, both opened a handful of new accounts on Sunday and Monday morning, which underlines the benefits of showing at a trade fair.

Gillian Ridley Whittle, Peachaus

Among the 15 new exhibitors at the event was Peachaus, which is described as “a fluid lifestyle brand” by founder Gillian Ridley Whittle, who has had a long career in womenswear, holding senior roles at Marks & Spencer and Topshop. During a four-year stint in Australia at leading retailers Target and Myer she began developing the concept inspired by the Aussie active lifestyle, as she explained to us last year.

Already being stocked by Fenwick, Peachaus was at INDX looking for more wholesale stockists in progressive boutiques and independent department stores. This season it also has showed at Salon in Paris, plus Wonderland in London and, at the same time as INDX, Pure in London. With bras retailing at £35-£60, knickers at £18-£25, tops at £45 and leggings at £75, it is well-priced for the better-to-premium market and the fresh look was in positive contrast to much of the familiar lingerie styles at the show.

Alicia Mederick and Bree McKeen, Evelyn & Bobbie

Also bringing a markedly different approach to the bra market was first-time exhibitor Evelyn & Bobbie, a fast-growing American brand developed by Bree McKeen, who gave up a career in private equity finance to develop a bra she herself found comfortable.

“Most bras are based on designs and technology that are 100 years old,” she asserted. “Ours combine the performance of sports bras with the comfort of soft-skin styles. In everything we do, beauty and purpose are linked.”

Launched in the US in 2019 the bras and complementary bottoms use a four-way stretch patented fabric blend of nylon and elastane (or spandex in US jargon). With almost seamless construction and no back fastening, the bras lack hanger appeal but make up for it in comfort when worn, McKeen promised. They will retail for £95 in the UK, where sales are being handled by David Finlayson of APM Agency and Irene Douglas of The Collections.

Given its American background, the brand offers six nude flesh tones and a very wide sizing range in bras and bottoms, from S to XXXL and from 4 to 28. Its unconventional approach covers the equivalent of 144 cup sizes, it claims.

Such innovation should be welcomed by buyers who are generally expecting a flat year, caused primarily by the prevailing economic conditions and the absence of any engaging lingerie trends.

James Crabtree, head of fashion for AIS, confirmed this was a period of consolidation for lingerie retailers: “The feedback from our members is they are cautious and are managing stock levels carefully. They will be working closely with their suppliers and continuity lines will be important.”

The next edition of INDX Intimate Apparel will be held on 28-30 July 2024.