Show report: Optimistic realism at INDX Woman
The UK’s unpredictable weather, rising mortgage rates, retailers’ increasing wage bills, cost-of-living pressures, an imminent general election and this summer’s Euros football championships were among the topics – as well as autumn-winter 24 collections – being discussed by visitors and exhibitors at this week’s INDX Woman trade show in Solihull.
The two-day event, held on Wednesday and Thursday, 31 January and 1 February, is the first UK fair of the season and always gives a good indication of the mood of middle-market independent boutiques and independent department stores.
That mood is generally realistic, fairly optimistic, and hopeful of a more consistently positive year than 2023 turned out to be. Suppliers that have been selling AW24 since early January have been encouraged so far with the reaction of buyers.
Joules, the lifestyle brand now owned by Next, which has around 150 independent wholesale accounts, was at INDX Woman for the second season The brand has been selling the autumn range for three weeks from its Market Harborough head office showroom. Account manager Victoria Downes said the general mood of indie buyers feels “quite positive”.
“Our founder Tom Joule came back in control of product last year and this autumn collection has moved on even more than the spring 24 one. We believe consumers are investing more in long-term wear, which absolutely suits us as we’ve worked at being more sustainable in what we do.”
Carol Capener, Carol C Collections
Exhibiting at the show after several years’ absence was Carol Capener, of Carol C Collections, which distributes a clutch of international labels, notably from the southern hemisphere. She had brought Portuguese separates brand Scusi, Australian knitwear supplier See Saw and New Zealand “coastal brand” Charlie Jane to INDX to “give them a window as they are not yet handled by our sub-agents”.
Capener observed that after a bad autumn season for many (but not all) shops, her buyers were keenly analysing brands’ performances: “There is a lot of uneasiness around but we have been selling autumn 24 in our Yorkshire showroom for three weeks and we’ve had a good start. I am really happy.
“Late last year we took the decision that we’d fly in our spring 24 collections. We felt it was important to get the stock in early to give the retailers longer to sell it at full price. It’s paid off. As distributors we hold stock and we have had requests for repeats for spring products already.”
The prolific Danish group DK Company was represented by six brands – B. Young, Culture, Fransa, Ichi, Kaffe and Pulz – via a variety of agencies and agents and the stands were busy as usual.
Paul O’Sullivan, south-east agent for B. Young, felt reliable performers would get retailers’ support for autumn. “Buyers are being cautious after the tough trading of last year, but that was more to do with the weather than any economic conditions,” he maintained. “When we had the short patch of good weather in June, things were flying out of the shops.
“Consumers with cash are out there. If we’d had a cold and dry autumn, we’d have had a different story. As a result, retailers are buying first the brands they know will sell. They are also price-conscious. DK has managed to hold its prices pretty much.”
Natalie Armstrong and Kim Reid, Lily & Mabel
While admitting to a touch of caution, Natalie Armstrong and Kim Reid, buyers for the Lily & Mabel boutique in Market Bosworth, Leicestershire, a 45-minute drive from INDX, agreed they had to “speculate to accumulate”.
“People have money but they are often scared to spend it because of all the talk about the cost of living crisis. Last year was OK, but a bit up and down. It’s become impossible to predict any season’s weather, so we are not taking as many risks as we might, but we still have to find something new and exciting,” said Armstrong.
Elaine Black, Tom Hughes
In a similar realistically optimistic mood was Elaine Black, buying for her Tom Hughes fashion store in Narberth, west Wales. “Last year was OK for us and we avoided the horror stories I heard from others. Narberth does well as it’s a town on independents. You can’t predict anything anymore, but I am feeling a bit more confident. I am still buying mainly from my regulars and I’m buying more in-season, but I am definitely on the lookout for some new brands, something to move us forward and to keep the customers coming back in.”
Edward Townrow, CJ Townrow
Edward Townrow, of independent department store C J Townrow, which has four branches in Essex, Cambridgeshire and Suffolk, is taking a cautious approach to buying for autumn-winter 2024.
“We traded very well in 2023, as we invested in, and traded up with, new brands and concession partners like Mango, Fatface, Apricot and Seasalt. But I expect it will be a difficult first quarter this year because consumers will feel the cost of living crisis, with increases in mortgage payments coming through.
“As a retailer employing around 60 staff we also have to absorb the minimum wage increases this spring. Compared with the minimum wage levels of 2019, we now have to pay 46% more. The bigger impact is in maintaining the differentials – all our staff wages have to go up.
“We have seen our branded stockists increase their prices, so our retail prices will rise by about 6%.
“On the plus side, however, I feel happier about the second and third quarters. We should have a feelgood factor in the summer because of the Euros football championship (in Germany, 14 June to 14 July) will encourage al fresco dining, when people want to dress up. I also expect it will be a good holiday season in UK coastal resorts, where we trade.
“I think we will see a boost once we’ve had the general election.”
The portfolio of 18 INDX shows a year is organised by the AIS buying group and all are held at the Cranmore Park exhibition and event venue, which is owned by AIS. James Crabtree, head of fashion at the group, confirmed AIS buying group members, which are typically family-owned independent department stores, believed there would be no appreciable upturn until 2025, after this year’s election.
“Our members suggest 2024 will be a year for limited growth, and like last year they will be focusing on maintaining margin rather than increasing sales,” he said.
INDX Woman covers fashion, footwear and accessories and the show attracts AIS members, plus other carefully vetted buyers from department stores, fashion independents, high street retailers, garden centres and etailers. It is a no-frills event with a concentration on order writing. Critics complain the quality across the exhibitors can be “patchy”, but the mix does give the event a wide appeal and a businesslike atmosphere.
Some 127 brands were on show this week, including 37 new exhibitors. Among the debutants was Manchester-based fashion brand Another Sunday, whose bright, punchy garments made a strong statement.
Shelley Herring, Another Sunda
Head of buying and brand Shelley Herring was in optimistic mood: “We are just over a year old and we have done Pure twice but we wanted to reach the different demographic INDX attracts. We are open to everything – we sell on our own website, we sell via Next and Debenhams, and we wholesale too. We know buyers are reluctant to try new brands but we are all about show-stopping, must-have, beautiful garments in sizes 6 to 22 that have a wide appeal. Our retail prices run from £26 for a textured camisole top to £70 for one of our signature printed dresses.”
Another newer name at the event is Ariat, an American outdoor brand that has grown from performance footwear into clothing. With a UK subsidiary in Oxfordshire, it is well-known in the equestrian sector and was back at INDX for a second season to improved relationships in the lifestyle arena.
Show newcomer, Ariat
Among the new non-fashion exhibitors this season is Fashioncheque, a gift card originating in the Netherlands that wants to repeat its European success in the UK. Industry marketing veteran Kevin Stone is leading the recruitment drive and was at the show to meet AIS members and indie boutique owners who are interested in Fashioncheque’s methods for revenue creation and customer acquisition.
Next season INDX Woman will be held on 21-23 July, reverting to the three-day schedule, starting on a Sunday, that it introduced last summer. For the foreseeable future, the January show will remain as a two-day midweek event due to the congested INDX show calendar at Cranmore Park at the beginning of the year.
Images: Eric Musgrave
