Show report: INDX Man delivers the goods
No records were broken but no disasters happened either.
This summation of the experience of the independent mainstream menswear sector during 2023 was offered by an experienced exhibitor at this week’s INDX Man trade fair in Solihull.
The description also could be applied to the event itself, which as usual delivered a businesslike, no-frills, order-writing environment for about 150 clothing, footwear and accessory brands. Taken overall, buyer attendance across the three days was steady, although several exhibitors said some usual buyers were missing.
Retailers from southern Ireland, which was enjoying a new Bank Holiday this week, were noticeably absent.
Nigel Trimble and Alan Kennedy, Magee
“We’ve seen everyone who said they were coming, but that’s not everyone we usually see,” remarked Nigel Trimble, an area sales manager with Irish tailoring brand Magee 1866. “Magee sold through well as usual last autumn-winter, but there’s no doubt some retailers have been left with overstocks of other tailoring brands, which will discourage them from coming to see suppliers here.”
The problems of stock overhangs, especially in tailoring, heavier outerwear and heavier knitwear, was widely mentioned at the three-day event, held on Sunday-Tuesday, February 4-6.
Given that menswear sales had slowed more the longer last year went on, seasoned suppliers were realistic in their expectations about the appetite for orders for autumn-winter 2024.
William Heaton, representing Redpoint
“This show has been OK, just as I expected it to be,” commented William Heaton, who has been representing German lifestyle brand Redpoint in England, Scotland and Wales for 10 years. “Overall last year the 120 or so accounts I deal with did their figures. Some were a bit better, some a bit worse, but generally there were no records broken and no disasters either.
“I have been selling for next season since 8th January and lots of buyers are being very careful about what they are buying. No one wants to over-order.”
Heaton pointed out that this largely-overlooked retail sector is pretty stable in terms of numbers. “Although it is a rarity, I do see one or two new (mainstream menswear) shops being opened. Additionally the only closures I’ve seen recently is of people who are retiring when there is no one to take on the business.”
The 18 INDX shows across the year are organised by the AIS buying group and all are held at AIS’ HQ, the Cranmore Park exhibition and event venue. Like all the INDX shows, INDX Man deals with commercial product that is fashionable without being fashion-forward, that is good value without being cheap or over-priced.
INDX Man attracts the best of the middle-to-better menswear sector The independent stores operating in this area are very well served by the show and by the private event run twice a year in the Midlands by the IMC buying group for its 140 or so members.
Unusually this season, the IMC held its event on 27-29 January, ahead of INDX Man, and suppliers who attended both noticed the effect.
Michael Fairlamb and Adrian McGill, Barker
“About 60% or 70% of the buyers we’ve seen here we saw last weekend at IMC and they placed their orders there,” said Adrian McGill, Scotland and Ireland sales agent for British footwear brand Barker. “We have seen one or two new accounts here but the reality is that formal shoes is a difficult market right now given the decline in tailoring. Buyers are being cautious on forward-ordering and prefer to buy from stock. Luckily we have about 300 options in our stock service. This will be a year for retailers to tread water and just plod along until the male consumer has more disposable income.”
Donald MacLean, Primo
Taking things carefully was Donald MacLean of Primo Menswear, which has two shops, in Inverness and Dingwall in northern Scotland: “We are a bit behind the national curve and last year we were still readjusting after lockdown. Overall 2023 was good, but Christmas trade didn’t meet our expectations. Our stock levels are slightly too high, so I am being cautious.
“Tourism is very good for us. We are very strong in German brands like (lifestyle brand) Bugatti and (shirt specialist) Olymp, but strangely our strongest group of foreign buyers are German. We seem to buy the collections more excitingly than they see at home.”
Marc Thompson of Bugatti with his father Barry
On the busy Bugatti stand, UK agent Marc Thompson of MT Agencies was pleased with the attitude of buyers towards the autumn range at the IMC show and INDX: “Last autumn most independents got there in the end even though footfall was down because people who came into the shop were in the mood to spend. Some retailers have got too much formalwear left but our forward orders have held up well.”
Peter Boyd, Benetti
The Irish brand Benetti is a popular tailoring option for many good independents but Midlands and north of England agent Peter Boyd confirmed suits sales are firmly skewed these days towards the wedding market. For the classic “officewear” market, retailers are relying on suppliers with broad stock services.
The obsession with casualwear is fine with many exhibitors at INDX Man, however, including Gabicci, which reported plenty of interest in its slightly reworked 1970s and 1980s styles.
Kamla Patel and Dave Tomlinson, Gabicci
“We have done copies from original Gabicci vintage garments we found on eBay,” said director Kamla Patel. “People appreciate we have a genuine history (from 1973). We are benefiting from doing separates and specialising in knitwear rather than tailoring. Retailers are coming down from the price levels of CP Company and Boss to something more realistic. Sunday and Monday here had a good buzz and we opened four new accounts on our vintage range.”
At the show in private rooms to meet only AIS members – which typically are significant independent departments stores like Jarrold in Norwich and De Gruchy in Jersey – were British brands Aubin and Peregrine.
Originally a stablemate of Jack Wills, Aubin (main image above) was retained by the companies’ founder Peter Williams when the main brand went bust and was acquired by Mike Ashley’s Frasers Group. Now 33% owned by Next along with Williams, Aubin is developing from a close relationship with John Lewis.
“We have only 27 (physical) points of sales in the UK – 23 John Lewis stores, two Fenwick stores and two of our own,” said Aubin’s CEO Greg Roberts. “We think certain AIS member-stores would be a good fit for us.”
David Snowdon and son Toby, agents for DIgel, Peregrine and Christys Hats
Heritage-inspired brand Peregrine is represented by father and son David and Toby Snowdon of the Snowdon Brands agency, who are regulars at INDX Man with the Digel menswear line from Germany. This season they also brought a new agency, Christys’ Hats.
They decided an appointment -only approach was appropriate for Peregrine so they could cherry pick potential stockists.
Attendance for the show topped 900 buyers. Leading indies represented included Jarrold, Austins of Newton Abbot (which is 100 years old this year), Bradbeers, County Clothes, Bakers & Larners of Holt, Walters of Oxford, Ulster Stores, S D Kells and Burgess of Athlone (Ireland’s longest-established department store, founded 1839).
James Crabtree, head of fashion at AIS, confirmed overall attendance was up on 12 months ago, but agreed footfall had been more irregular than usual: “There has been a buzz about the place, buyers are looking for something new, but you get the sense the industry is waiting for the economy to shift for the better.”
Next season INDX Man will be held on Sunday-Tuesday, 14-16 July, preceding the IMC buying event, which is scheduled for Saturday-Monday, 20-22 July.
Images: Eric Musgrave
