The Interview: Todd Snyder on his new role as Creative Director of Woolrich Black Label

Having won plaudits for his first collection as the new Creative Director of Woolrich Black Label for AW24 at a fashion show during January’s edition of Pitti Uomo in Florence, American designer Todd Snyder talks about the appeal of heading up design for such a prestigious US heritage brand, and how he is taking it in a new direction while respecting its rich past.

What was the main attraction for you to take on the role of Creative Director of Woolrich Black Label?

The history of Woolrich certainly played a pivotal role, being one of the longest-standing brands with an extensive archive to draw inspiration from. When I started digging, I realised that this brand has been around for 194 years, which is incredible. I've worked with brands that had about a hundred years of history, but I had never dealt with a brand with such vast heritage. The opportunity to shape its future was truly exciting.

Woolrich Black Label AW24 by Todd Snyder

How did the chance come about? What was your view of Woolrich before getting on board in the new role?

The idea of joining forces with Woolrich was conceived around a year and a half ago, initiated by the brand reaching out with a proposal for a collaborative venture. Having engaged in numerous collaborations in the past, I wasn't sure if I wanted to embark on another one. However, when presented with the opportunity to assume the role of Creative Director, it prompted a re-evaluation from an entirely new vantage point. Woolrich is a brand deeply rooted in American heritage, one that I've known since I was born. Creatively it has always been a reference point for me.

What point of difference can you bring to the brand?

I’m not looking to change people’s perceptions of Woolrich, instead I want to build on what Woolrich has achieved throughout its 194-year history by creating fresh and contemporary interpretations of already loved classics. The objective is to propel the brand into the future, infusing it with a modern sensibility by exploring new technologies, innovative fabrics and recycled materials. All the while, not forgetting the notion of luxury conveyed through the incorporation of precious materials. My goal is to deliver the best of Woolrich’s footprint, but in a way that nobody thought possible.

Woolrich Black Label AW24 by Todd Snyder

How have you incorporated the ‘Heritage’ and ‘Technical’ elements?

I have great respect for heritage brands and what they represent, and Woolrich carries a near 200 years legacy, making it impossible to overlook its rich history. That is why the new collection will bring together Woolrich’s heritage as a storied American brand with a contemporary and timeless aesthetic. Hence, the ‘Heritage’ line presents a series of sophisticated and luxurious reinterpretations of the brand's iconic models, including a take on the rugged wool ‘Buffalo Check Shirt’ that comes in a refined cashmere or a new version of the Woolrich ‘Arctic Parka’.

One aspect pays homage to the past by taking its icons and reimagining them, while another part involves the creation of something entirely new that the brand seeks to embody. This is where the ‘Technical’ line comes into play, fusing high performance materials with a sartorial touch to establish a new standard of quality in the outdoor world, leaning on the more modern fabric used in today’s outdoor gear and embracing the futuristic look of tech wear. The ‘Birch Parka’ serves as a notable example, showcasing a drop-dyed nylon exterior reminiscent of an abstract painting of a birch forest, or the ‘Ripstop Parachute Pant’ - inspired by vintage military attire and crafted in Italian nylon.

What are the key pieces across both lines?

Key pieces span both lines, but it's hard to choose. If I had to pick a single piece, I would say the cashmere overshirt. I always like the mix of something utilitarian with the addition of a touch of class. So, I always play with fabrics, luxury materials, or something similar, trying to find a different key. My goal was to think about the things the brand is famous for and figure out how to reinvent them, but also to consider the things they do not have and how to reinvent those as well. A perfect example of this approach is the new boots which takes inspiration from the classic duck boots typical of the American outdoor imagination but with a ‘modern soul’ represented by a high Vibram sole where the classic grooved upper is embedded. Additionally, there is a construction with genuine shearling that signifies the elevation of the product and the pursuit of quality.

Woolrich Black Label AW24 by Todd Snyder

Who is the real target market for both?

The collection is designed to meet the high technical standards of serious outdoorsmen, while being chic enough for city dwellers who mix field clothing into their unique personal style. Whether you’re a serious outdoor enthusiast or fashion lover, you’ll connect with this collection.

How was the collection received at Pitti and then Milan?

The Woolrich Black Label collection was met with great enthusiasm. The audience embraced our innovative approach to reinventing classic elements of the brand, and there was a palpable excitement around the new direction we took, drawing attention for the unique blend of utilitarian aesthetics with a touch of refined elegance.

Have any UK buyers come on board with it yet?

We are still in the midst of the sales campaign, so we do not have any official names yet. But Woolrich Black Label will be sold in Europe through Woolrich stores and through a selection of about 40-45 multi-brand stores in the UK, Italy, France and Germany, including both specialists and department stores where Woolrich is already selling.

Woolrich Black Label AW24 by Todd Snyder

What makes you the right person to lead this reinvigorated design direction for Woolrich Black Label?

As an American, Woolrich has always been a part of my life. I used to wear it when I was young, and those who wore it 20 or 30 years ago still have it in their closets. As a designer, this sets a return to the roots of the brand with many years of experience for various US heritage brands, surely having the right sensitivity to work at a brand like Woolrich.

It is very important for me to pay a tribute to the past but push forward. A lot of the collection is a reinvention of Woolrich but also an invention, which means to start from scratch. It’s about rediscovering the classicism of the designs with the ultra-modern attention to detail. That harks back to the archives of a brand that has played a role in shaping the iconography of American outdoor wear.

You have worked for quite a few big brands in the past, which have you enjoyed the most and why? And how do they compare with working with Woolrich?

I’ve been fortunate enough to collaborate with some of the most iconic brands over the years, like New Balance, L.L.Bean and Champion sportswear, and I've loved putting my twist on them. However, working with Woolrich is a true partnership where they've entrusted me as a Creative Director to develop a new label that will span the course of several seasons to come. My hope is to usher in the next era for Woolrich and extend their legacy well into the future. My vision is to merge the past and present in the hopes of redefining the fundamental elements of style with an emphasis on heritage, quality, and craftsmanship.

Have you also still got a big focus on your own brand? What’s new for that?

I’m incredibly excited with all that’s happening with the Todd Snyder brand in 2024. We’ll be opening five more stores this year as well as returning to a wholesale strategy to support our growth plans in Europe and Asia. This is a pivotal moment for our brand and my team, and I can’t wait to share what’s next.