Show report: It's business at usual at INDX Intimate Apparel

Bumper swimwear sales this spring-summer have lifted the spirits of many lingerie retailers, resulting in a generally positive mood at this week’s INDX Intimate Apparel event (July 30 – August 1).

Last year’s spring- summer retail season – the first “holiday” season after COVID – was exceptional for most independent boutiques and some, although not all, reported the buoyant trend had been repeated this year.

Sarah Holland from The L Collections in Berkhamsted, Hertfordshire, who attended the show with two colleagues, is delighted with recent trading: “The business I now own has been trading for 40 years and 2022 was its biggest-ever year, but this year has come pretty close to the same level. We have had really good sell-throughs on swimwear. June was phenomenal.

Sarah Holland The L Collections, Berkhampstead

“We are in an affluent area and the cost of living crisis is not something that affects us. School fees may have gone up 9% and the mortgage on the big house has risen, but people in Berko still go to Barbados in January and to Kalkan in Turkey in July. We serve them well because we offer something different, especially in swimwear, although in lingerie we are more about continuity lines rather than fashionable styles.”

Jill Axe, Debbie Churchill, Perfect Fit Lingerie, Sheffield

Also in positive spirits were sisters-in-law Jill Axe and Debbie Churchill, who run Perfect Fit Lingerie in Sheffield, which reaches 25 years of trading in September. “We have been even busier than in 2022. We have been attracting new customers all the time,” said Axe. “Both Debenhams and John Lewis have closed in Sheffield, so we have seen lots of women come to us for the first time. Once someone has been properly fitted by us and bought a quality bra, they don’t go back. We stock 100 different sizes in the shop, so we can fit almost everyone. Some of our customers might be feeling the effects of the cost of living rises, but they are still shopping with us because a bra remains an essential purchase. We have not made any changes to what we buy.”

Lauren Craig, Carol Murgatroyd, Jessica McDermott Freemans

Also in confident spirits was a three-woman team from Freemans mail order in Bradford. “We saw a massive uptake for lingerie during lockdown and it’s remained steady ever since,” said Carol Murgatroyd. “We haven’t noticed any impact of cost-of-living concerns on our sales.”

Marcella Louden, Silks, Glasgow

Slightly less upbeat was Marcella Louden, owner of three Silks shops in Glasgow, who has been slightly disappointed with SS23 trading. “Business has been OK, but that’s about all, “ she said. “We had a very good 2022 and bought accordingly for 2023, but we have sold more swimwear and less lingerie. I can’t explain why that is, but it’s made me more cautious about what I order for spring 24.”

Another note of caution was sounded by Mary Cameron, UK managing director of French supplier Group Chantelle: “This show is still not back to its pre-COVID levels. There is still a lot of uncertainty around with retailers being unsure what will happen with energy costs and other rising prices. That means they are looking for continuity lines ahead of fashion, which is fine for us because we have a strong stock service, but retailers need some fashion in their shops to excite the consumers.”

Mary Cameron, Groupe Chantelle

Pamela Scott, owner of the Underlines lingerie trade title, who was at the show giving seminars on lingerie and swimwear trends, said her many contacts had reported “OK trading, but it has been a bit up and down for some”. She pointed out INDX Lingerie was attracting good footfall in part because the recent Curve trade fair in Paris, a big draw for serious UK buyers, had been disappointing, with a poor selection of brands on show.

Pamela Scott, Underlines

As usual, the UK’s only dedicated trade show for lingerie, swimwear, sleepwear and related sectors was an order-writing show. Exhibitors reported a good turnout of independent boutique buyers and buyers from stores in the buying group AIS, which organises the INDX shows at its Cranmore Park HQ in Solihull. Next, John Lewis and Fenwick also sent buyers.

Priya Downes, Nudea

There were around 140 collections on show, including 15 new exhibitors. Priya Downes, founder of Nudea, which was exhibiting for the third time, was satisfied again with contacts made: “As a relatively new supplier we are here to try and gain more traction with existing stockists and new ones. It would be nice to see even more new brands here alongside the established names. Sustainability, which is a big part of our approach, is getting bigger and it’s good to keep that conversation going.”

Among the debutantes was Alex Pluthero, who set up Freedom Underwear as an online proposition in 2020 and began wholesaling at the end of 2021. Its USP is offering a comfortable non-wired bra in larger cup sizes, from D to HH, to retail at £55, with a sports bra at £65.

“My first time at INDX has been brilliant,” she confirmed. “You can’t beat feeling the product and talking to people. It’s amazing for a young company like mine to be alongside some of the biggest names in lingerie. We have opened new accounts and found new leads.”

Alex Pluthero, Freedom

Also showing a full swimwear collection at INDX for the first time was Sea Level Australia, which was presented by agent Irene Douglas: “The good buyers, who know what they are doing, have had a good season. They always do. We are only looking for 30 accounts, which know how to sell swimwear all year round and can handle three deliveries a year.”

In a new initiative the smaller Diamond Suite at the venue was given over to an area called Boutique at INDX where six prominent agencies showed about 30 collections. James Crabtree, head of fashion at AIS, explained: “We gave the room a different look and feel to the main room and put together six agencies that complement each to make the Diamond Suite more of a destination. We may try something similar at our other INDX Fashion events.

“We are always talking to our exhibitors through the year, looking to develop the event. This season we have added more wellbeing products, a few candle suppliers, more resortwear and we intend to grow these areas to create a more rounded experience for buyers.”

Running on Sunday, Monday and Tuesday, INDX Intimate Apparel is the UK’s only major dedicated show for the sector, but there was plenty of praise from exhibitors and visitors for the London Swimwear Show, which ran on 16-18 July, its first edition since the COVID shutdown. It comprised around 10 leading agencies in the sector, each showing multiple collections.

Even a fan of INDX like Sarah Holland appreciated being able to spread her SS24 buying over two events: “It really helped to be able to look at swimwear on its own because it requires a lot of attention. Swimwear changes every year, while the lingerie that we sell has more consistent looks.”

Crabtree acknowledges several other fashion events attract lingerie and related suppliers but he remains confident, with good reason, INDX Intimate Apparel will remain the market leader.

The next editions will be held on 11-13 February and 28-30 July 2024.

Images: Eric Musgrave

Read our other INDX Show reports; Menswear is here, Womenswear is here.