Show report: INDX Man delivers the goods
After the post-lockdown boom of 2022 less frenetic trading this year has done little to dampen the optimism enjoyed by the mainstream menswear sector served by the INDX Man trade event.
There was plenty of realistic positivity at the show in Solihull this week (16-18 July) as the “new normal” trading conditions in 2023 have been generally favourable after the slow start caused by poor spring weather.
The well-edited event had around 150 collections at the AIS exhibition centre, an increase of about 10 on the previous season, thanks to space gained from some improvements works. As always, INDX Man proved to be a show where orders are written.
Slater Menswear team, Mark Slater, Charles McKenna, Tony Links, Declyn Cooper
For the first time a 5-strong contingent from Glasgow-based Slater Menswear attended the show, led by director Charles McKenna, who was impressed by what he saw: “This is a good show, with lots of brands we can work with.”
While some independents have reported a reduction in demand for tailoring after the post-COVID rush of weddings and other special events last year, Slater, which this year is celebrating 50 years in business, has responded to the increased interest with a new made-to-order programme.
Also very happy with the demand for tailored garments is John Lambert of Kent-based mini-chain County Clothes, who is doing well with the made-to-measure service provided by Etch. “We’ve had a good year and our sales figures are up. Outfits for special occasions are still important on the tailoring side. We have come here very positive about spring-summer 24.”
150 collections were on display at the show
In October Lambert will open his eighth branch, in Herne Bay, Kent, in the premises occupied for many years by Rogers Menswear, whose owner Tony Symons is retiring.
“This shop will be only nine miles from our main branch in Canterbury, so I am here to look for some different brands so we don’t just have the same things in the two shops,” he said.
Also on the expansion trail is Bath-based indie Suave Owl, which is run by Tony and Jessica Harvey. They are adding a second shop in Winchester, which is about 90 minutes’ drive away, continuing a trend that has seen successful independents adding new branches on the back of a post-pandemic revival in interest in local boutiques.
Gabicci is also marking 50 years of trading this year and on the stand, sales manager Kamla Patel was confident about the opportunities for independent menswear shops. “It’s not been an easy year for retailers because of the poor weather in spring and the cost of living issues, but we had opened five new accounts by the middle of Monday (the second of three days). I see the appeal of good independents getting even stronger.”
David Austin, Austins of Newton Abbott
Also in very positive mood was David Austin, owner of the Austins department store in Newton Abbott, Somerset, who was spotted on the busy stand of German lifestyle brand Bugatti. “I am feeling very optimistic about the future,” he said. “The weather was not good for us until May, but it’s been excellent since then. People really appreciate the great welcome and the personal service they get in a classic independent department store like ours. More people want to shop with independents. We were founded in 1924, so we will be having plenty celebrations next year.”
Slightly older than Austins, in 2024 Viyella will be marking its 240th anniversary. On the stand owner Steve McConnell was pleasantly surprised by the mood of the buyers he saw. “The feeling at the show has been a lot more optimistic than I was expecting. After the busy time last year, demand for our Never Out of Stock lines has been flat in 2023, so I was a bit concerned about the mood here but everything feels stronger. We had a great day on Sunday, including seeing a lot of Irish buyers.”
Steve McConnell, Viyella
James Crabtree, head of fashion at Associated Independent Stores (AIS), which organises the INDX shows, confirmed the buying group had seen menswear members reporting a slow time in spring but trade had picked up since the better weather arrived in May: “The February edition of INDX Man, showing autumn-winter, is always going to be stronger than this spring edition, but we are still up on last year.”
James Crabtree, AIS
By the end of the second the event had attracted more than 500 visitors.
The familiar names that make up the INDX Man offer were augmented this season by a few new collections, including Veldskoen, a South African footwear brand established in 2016, Swanndri, a heritage outdoor brand from New Zealand that dates back to 1913, and Huxley Tanner, a British brand for Italian-made belts.
“We are always tight for space but we do like to bring in something new each season,” said Crabtree.
Images: Eric Musgrave
