Milan Fashion Week SS24 Highlights: Gucci unveils new direction to A-list front row

It was one of the most anticipated shows of the whole of fashion month and the calibre of stars who turned out to see Gucci's new creative chief Sabato De Sarno unveil his vision for the storied Italian house was testament to that.

Kering-owned Gucci parted ways with De Sarno's predecessor Alessandro Michele almost a year ago following reports that he was unwilling to tone down his maximalist designs despite a cool-down in sales.

Michele had spearheaded a seven-year period of stellar growth a Gucci but he was perhaps not the designer to steer the brand through this new era of quiet luxury. Kering instead turned to De Sarno, formerly of Valentino, and today's show was the first full taste of his aesthetic.

Anticipation for the show has been building for the show, dubbed ‘Gucci ancora’ (meaning ‘again’ in Italian), after the brand deleted all of its previous Instagram posts a week ago.

“Ancora means a lot of things. It means again, but it’s also more personal; it’s not something you lost, it’s something that you still have, but you want more of it because it makes you happy,” De Sarno told Vogue ahead of the show.

So did he wipe the slate clean along with the Instagram account? In a word, yes. This was a huge departure from the Michele maximalism and it was evident from the first look.

(Luca Bruno/AP)

The show opened with a series of black and white short suits and mini shift dresses, with the whole collection focused on clean lines and sleek silhouettes.

While Michele was known for his kooky, granny-chic designs, De Sarno offered a more overt sexiness with tiny bra tops, micro mini skirts and very short shorts.

Alongside boxy tailored looks and lots of patent leather there was a sporty, streetwear vibe with oversized hoodies and casual white trainers.

(Luca Bruno/AP)

Jeans (increasingly seen on the catwalks this season) were indigo, low-slung and baggy, no doubt appealing to young customers who love the Noughties look.

Handbags – a huge moneyspinner for Gucci – largely stayed true to the label’s classic DNA, with the exception of a few bling-covered styles.

Veering in a more glamorous direction, there were crystal-embellished crop tops and skirts with sparkly tassels.

A series of silky pastel slip dresses with black lace trim tapped into the popular ‘boudoir dressing’ trend, while glitzy beaded minidresses are sure to be a hit with celebrities on the red carpet.

(Luca Bruno/AP)

Reaction to the collection on social media was mixed.

While most commentators agreed that De Sarno put his stamp on the brand, not everyone was convinced that his designs were ‘Gucci’ enough. (But then was Michele really 'Gucci' when he began his seven-year tenure?)

Fans of Michele’s irreverence and maximalism weren’t happy with the change of direction, but ultimately it’s the luxury brand’s customers who matter the most.

Julia Roberts (Luca Bruno/AP)

Time will tell whether De Sarno’s vision is a hit with shoppers when the collection lands in stores next year.

But the high profile guest list will certainly help grab the attention of consumers before then. Hollywood royalty Julia Roberts and Ryan Gosling showed up for De Sarno. Roberts has clearly bought into the new toned down aesthetic and was sporting an oversized grey blazer and shorts, while Gosling (who wore Gucci on much of his recent promo tour for Barbie) had ditched date pink and was wearing a low-key but luxe leather jacket in black with black trousers.

Ryan Gosling (Luca Bruno/AP)

Kendall Jenner joined in with the minimalism wearing a chic and short belted trench coat with marroon bag and matching kitten heels.

Kendall Jenner (Luca Bruno/AP)

Others who turned out at Milan’s M77 gallery, included actors Paul Mescal and Julia Garner while Mark Ronson provided the music.