Milan Fashion Week AW24: Dolce & Gabbana mixes underwear as outerwear with modern tailoring
Supermodel Naomi Campbell closed Dolce & Gabbana’s daring Milan Fashion Week show in an underwear-inspired look.
Fresh off walking the runway for Burberry in London, Campbell wore an all-black outfit: a lace bralette and sheer skirt with a major leg slit, accessorised with half gloves, a hat with netting to cover her face and her signature long straight hair.
(Luca Bruno/AP)
Campbell’s look marked the end of another ultra-sexy collection for the Italian fashion house, bringing the underwear as outerwear trend to the runway and mixing it with a modern take on tailoring.
The autumn/winter 2024 collection was called Tuxedo, with impeccable tailoring, including the opening look of a cropped black tuxedo jacket worn over underwear and a sheer open skirt trailing behind.
(Luca Bruno/AP)
The outfits continued to play around with masculine suiting and elements of lace under garments – deconstructed tuxedo jumpsuits were worn over skimpy bras, silk bloomers peeked out from under boxy blazers and some models wore classic white shirts and bow ties with their suits.
(Luca Bruno/AP)
It is hard to see tuxedos on the runway and not think of Yves Saint Laurent – he changed the face of fashion with his autumn/winter 1966 collection, introducing a women’s tuxedo called Le Smoking at a time when the style was entirely reserved for men.
There was also a ’90s sensibility to Dolce & Gabbana’s collection with the sexy take on tailoring harking back to Tom Ford’s time at Gucci, while the form-fitting outfits with flashes of leopard print were reminiscent of Azzedine Alaia.
(Luca Bruno/AP)
Campbell wasn’t the only supermodel on the runway – she was also joined by ’90s favourites Eva Herzigova and Amber Valletta.
Most models were accessorised in the same way, with netted hats worn with slicked back hair, bright red lips and dark eye make-up.
(Luca Bruno/AP)
This was not a collection full of colour – instead, most outfits were all-black, with hints of gold, silver and leopard print. The materials chosen were incredibly luxe, with lace, velvet and sequins mixing with fur and feathers.
Models walked the runway with Murphy’s Law by Irish singer Roisin Murphy playing over the speakers, and the star-studded front row fitted in with the overall aesthetic.
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American actor Eva Mendes seemed to tap into the ‘mob wife’ trend that’s all over TikTok, wearing a black corset-style dress underneath a large leopard print fur jacket. She had her hair in a voluminous beehive and paired the look with big sunglasses and a leopard print bag and gloves.
Ashley Graham (Luca Bruno/AP)
Meanwhile, model Ashley Graham – who has previously walked the runway for Dolce & Gabbana at Milan Fashion Week – leaned into masculine suiting, wearing a white tuxedo-style jacket with loose-fit black trousers and a corset top.
Words: Prudence Wade/PA
