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London Fashion Week SS22 highlights: Erdem

Lauretta Roberts
20 September 2021

Erdem wrote a love letter to London with his SS22 collection using English aristocrats, the poet Edith Sitwell and socialite and cultural patron Ottoline Morrell, as his muses.

The result was, as one has come to expect of Erdem, take-your-breath-away beautiful with texture, ruffles, embroidery, embellishment, delicate prints and shimmer all applied to creations that were the height of elegance.

However Erdem lent an air of insouciance to the elegance, reflecting his chosen muses, by using textiles such as waxed cottons and raw and crushed linens. These were elevated via cinched tailoring and embellishment, such as the application of hand-stitched crystal beads on a raw linen dress and pencil skirt.

A nod to Sitwell's literary skills was evident as Erdem sought to lend a "bookish" air to proceedings with bold floral prints on matching chiné suits combined with "handsome" brogues. Elsewhere, enlarged etched black floral prints, bold monochrome patterned fabrics and structured pleats brought a graphic modernity to more feminine silhouettes.

Direct nods to the wardrobes of Sitwell and Morrell came in the form of a slouchy yet structured waxed cotton trench coat with large mother of pearl buttons from the wardrobe of Sitwell and the legendary oversized wrinkled, crushed satin hats of Morrell.

Ribbons, lace and botanical prints brought moments of ethereal softness and rust-coloured sequins add an evening sparkle. Sheer broderie anglaise dresses and white cotton poplin were pretty yet confident options for summer social events.

But amid the feminine elegance Erdem offered boyish garments too – reminiscent of the counterpart characters and romantic interests that featured in the lives and wardrobes of both his muses. Shrunken knits, faded denims, long choirboy shirts with ruffles under tweed jackets brought an almost "new romantic" note to the collection.

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