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London Fashion Week AW24 Highlights: David Koma’s exploration of light and movement

Chloe Burney
18 February 2024

When it comes to London Fashion Week, star studded front rows are a given, but David Koma's AW24 debut took this to new heights. As celebs, influencers and the fashion elite clamoured into the University of Westminster's dimly lit hall, David Koma's models were dressed and ready backstage in feathers, pearls and neoprene galore.

Two clusters, made up of tangled wires and suspended cameras, infiltrated the runway. This tech-inspired artwork acted as a backdrop for Koma's AW24 collection, which saw clothing come alive "in interplays between light and movement".

David Koma delved into the world of dance, drawing inspiration from an imaginary exchange between the late German neo-expressionist dance pioneer Pina Bausch and contemporary Spanish artist Candela Capitan.

The collection unfolded as a study in modernist glamour, deconstructing the dress codes of both on and off-duty dancers through the designer's lens. Both minimalism and maximalism manifested via form and contrasting colours.

Pina Bausch's influence came to life through black and white silhouettes, made in collaboration with costume designer Marion Cito, that echoed traditional dance attire.

Abstractions of the dancer's wardrobe unfolded, rejigging rehearsal uniforms into draped tops and ballet bustiers morphed into evening dresses. The dancer's tutu also underwent a metamorphosis into various forms such as shrugs, scarves crafted in marabou, cascading feathered hems and peplums.

As for Candela Capitan, her tech-centric approach to movement inspired constructions that replicated a sense of digitality, inviting the refraction of light. Sculptural neoprene tailoring, liquid jersey dresses and sheer overlays brought a futuristic edge to the collection. The play with illumination reached new heights, with garments encrusted with rock-sized crystals set in light-reflecting raw metal ringlets.

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