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London Fashion Week AW24 Highlights: Simon Holloway’s debut Dunhill collection

Tom Bottomley
19 February 2024

Dunhill presented its AW24 collection in the Duveen Wing at the National Portrait Gallery in London on Friday evening, its first runway show since 2020 and a welcome addition of high-end menswear to the London Fashion Week schedule.

It was the debut collection from new Creative Director, Simon Holloway, who has previously held design roles at Agnona, Hogan, Jimmy Choo, Michael Kors, Narciso Rodriguez and Polo Ralph Lauren.

The AW24 Dunhill collection, which is described as bringing "new codes of British style", features 41 looks and is a sophisticated portrayal of Dunhill’s 130-year heritage.

As a starting point, Holloway turned to the house archives and its tailoring expertise and pedigree in dressing the likes of Truman Capote and Frank Sinatra. Archival house pieces and the golden era of Hollywood style influence the collection that is "rich, masculine, and unashamedly elegant".

Holloway said: "This collection celebrates our origins and subsequent evolution into a unique British luxury house. Dunhill designs for men that enjoy the finer things in life – from motoring, sporting and cultural events through to classic black tie moments. It is what we have always done best. I hope we have re-captured that spirit, one that is at once refined and international."

Refined suiting in the collection uses fabrics exclusively developed in the heritage mills of Yorkshire, Sussex, Somerset, and Biella. The offer includes both two and three-piece options, topcoats, and formal wear. There’s also beautifully crafted evening suits in velvet and three-piece tuxedo suits "to evoke a louche formality".

Other highlights include informal blazers, dressed casually with pleated flannel Gurkha trousers, and statement outerwear is inspired by the car coat – a house signature. Leather, suede and sheepskin coats stand out.

There’s also indulgent casual pieces, such as reversible driving jackets and knit twinsets in warm tones of toffee, chocolate brown and cream.

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