Forget quiet luxury, Phoebe Philo's new range is ultra-luxury

British fashion designer Phoebe Philo’s eponymous label has finally made its debut after an eager cult following awaited the ‘less is more’ designer’s return to the fashion realm after a three-year hiatus.

Despite pushing the launch back by a month, fans weren't disappointed after Philo launched her namesake label that was reminiscent of the "old Celine" vibe. Philo's own style – she often took her bow at the end of Celine shows wearing a polo neck, slouchy trousers and Adidas Stan Smith trainers – has seeped into her creative vision for the brand.

As expected, quiet luxury is the order of the day, with prices set accordingly. If The Row's pricing is considered steep, be warned, a Pheobe Philo coat could set you back £12,000. Prices start at £340 for sunglasses and go up to £13,000 for a hand-knitted T-shirt dress.

There’s not a flicker of branding in sight. Instead, Philo keeps silhouettes relaxed and colour palettes muted. Rather than adorning with embellishments, the designer plays with contrasting textures such as leathers, sequins and faux furs - all in neutrals and dimmed hues, of course. The shoes seem to be the standout out of the collection, with squared toes and relaxed leathers.

Reflective of her role outside of fashion, Philo punctuated the collection with chunky necklaces that wrap around the neck to read ‘mum’ in repeat.

Philo was creative director at Celine until 2018 (the role is currently held by Hedi Slimane) and creations from her decade-long tenure at the LVMH-owned house are still sought after on the secondary market with Instagram accounts dedicated to tracking them down. Prior to Celine, Philo was creative director at Chloé, having taken over from her friend Stella McCartney who left to start up her own label.

The launch was first teased back in February, when Phoebe Philo took to Instagram to announce that her highly anticipated and undoubtedly minimalist label is set to launch in September 2023, however, this was pushed back by a month.

Last July, it was announced that luxury conglomerate LVMH would financially support Philo, holding a minority stake in the business. Philo noted in her statement: "To be independent, to govern and experiment on my own terms is hugely significant to me."