Can’t see the wood without the Dries as Van Noten steps down

Goodbye and thank you, Dries. A designer’s designer, Dries Van Noten, has sadly announced he is stepping away from his eponymous label.

In a statement, the Belgian fashion designer, 65, said: "In the early ‘80s, as a young guy from Antwerp, my dream was to have a voice in fashion. Through a journey that brought me to London, Paris and beyond, and with the help of countless supportive people, that dream came true.

"Now I want to shift my focus to all the things I never had the time for. I’m sad, but at the same time happy. I feel it’s time to leave room for a new generation of talents to bring their vision to the brand."

It went on to say: "In due time, we will announce the designer who will continue the story the DVN Men & Women. However, I will stay involved in the House that I treasure so much."

Replacing Dries Van Noten will be extremely difficult, especially for a brand that is built on ready-to-wear and isn’t reliant on logos and overt branding. Van Noten is an artist when it comes to his seasonal prints, colours and commitment to his army of Indian embroiderers. Though the brand has tried to diversify into other areas like beauty following its buyout by the Spanish fashion and beauty conglomerate Puig in 2018.

His last show will be in June for the men's spring 2025 season.

The refurbished MoMu fashion museum in Antwerp arguably wouldn’t exist without Dries Van Noten. He was the most commercially successful of the much revered group of fashion designers labelled the ‘Antwerp Six’ who graduated from the city’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts in the 1980s. It includes Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dirk Van Saene, and Walter Van Beirendonck. Without compromising his designs or brand DNA, he was never commercial, while still remaining wearable for the consumer who appreciated great design and grown-up fabrications and finishes.

While in the Belgian fashion city of Antwerp, a visit to Dries Van Noten's flagship store located in the historical Het Modepaleis department store which he opened in 1989 is a fashion-must pilgrimage and makes you fully understand the man and brand. Van Noten is Belgian’s answer to Paul Smith, but with a more directional fashion edge. His love of art, design and gardening runs throughout the retail environment and the products and is respectfully more about design than the brand.

Each season was a new page, turning over to reveal a surrealist blue hand or a collaboration with interior designer Verner Panton, yet still recognisably Van Noten. Van Noten has never relied on his name to sell. He is an exceptional tastemaker and has relied on people wanting to buy into his vision and world.

The relationship with Puig, who Van Noten sold a majority interest to six years ago, seemed to be going well. New global retail locations were opened and perfume and lipsticks added. But, having more people to answer to will always be difficult for somebody so used to independence. Staying independent without the sales of huge numbers of bags and shoes was always going to be difficult in a market that saw luxury groups gobbling up brands and a billion-dollar moniker being the goal for many brands and designers.

Born in Antwerp in 1958, Dries Van Noten is the third generation in a family of tailors. On graduating from Antwerp’s Royal Academy, he began to freelance as a consultant designer before starting his own collection of menswear in 1986. He celebrated his 50th fashion show in 2004 and 100th fashion show in 2017. In 2017, the documentary 'Dries' gave us an insight into how the designer worked and his home life.

Marc Puig, chairman and chief executive officer of Puig, said of the move: "We respect Dries’ wish to step aside, after an exceptional 38-year career in fashion. It is a distinct honour for Puig to now be entrusted with carrying his legacy into the future, and a unique responsibility we will treasure as a new and exciting chapter opens for both Dries and the brand.

"The relationship we have with founders, even after their retirement, has long been a defining factor for Puig’s success, and we look forward to continuing our personal and professional friendship as Dries remains involved in the brand to work on certain projects."

Van Noten’s departure is a reminder that fashion needs more designers and not just legacy names. These are refined shoes to fill and this is a sad day for fans of fashion.