The Interview: Ukranian designer Ivan Frolov on London Fashion Week, Beyoncé and "war-life" balance
As a designer working in Ukraine, Ivan Frolov has what he refers to as “war-life balance”. He runs his eponymous brand, Frolov, in Kyiv. Heart motifs run throughout Frolov’s glittering, daring outfits, in stark contrast to the fact that they’re created in the middle of wartime.
“People usually say work-life balance, and we say war-life balance, or war-work balance,” Frolov explains.
“It’s difficult and it’s a big responsibility for us to continue to work, to continue running a business in Ukraine. Still each day in Kyiv we have sirens, they send massive rocket attacks to Kyiv – there is no safe place in Ukraine still, and it’s winter.”
The practical elements of running a business in wartime are tricky – Frolov particularly mentioned issues with electricity – but he added: “It’s nothing if we compare what our soldiers are feeling on the frontline. It’s also a big motivation for us, that someone is on the frontline and doing everything for us to protect us, so we can continue to work.”
Hearts are a central theme to Frolov (Andrew Grey /PA)
And it’s important for the 30-year-old to continue working in Kyiv. “Only taxes that are paid by Ukrainian businesses can be used for supporting the army and supporting soldiers. All other money that the European Union gives [us] can just cover social problems like helping children, but nothing with war,” he said.
“So it’s quite difficult, but we try our best and not give up – because it’s our future. For me, it’s also very important to show that we have bright, special and unique Ukrainian brands that can represent Ukraine on the world stage in the best way.”
He described his aesthetic with two words: intelligent provocation.
View this post on Instagram
“I’m trying to find the balance between vulgarity and sexuality, something in-between, to find a new sexuality,” he explained. The outfits are often glittering and with lots of cut-outs, showing plenty of skin – but Frolov’s aim is always to make the wearer feel “comfortable and safe”.
And his outfits have been catching celebrity attention – Beyoncé famously wore a pink and silver see-through mini dress in Dubai last year for her first performance in five years. Other big names have followed – Jennifer Lopez wore a white bedazzled wedding dress with extreme heart-shaped cut-outs for the Can’t Get Enough music video earlier this year, while Kylie Minogue donned a black dress with Swarovski crystals to promote her album, Tension.
Frolov said he’s “proud” when his work is worn by global superstars, even if it isn’t his main focus.
View this post on Instagram
“Right now I have just one dream: it’s winning the war,” he said – but there are still benefits to showing Ukrainian creativity on the world stage.
“It’s still important, even right now, because I have very nice feedback from people in my country. We have too much bad news every day, we’re crying every day, because every day someone’s dying. It’s a big challenge for all the country.
“When we have small, but still good news like Beyonce in a Ukrainian designer – it’s support, like people are saying: We are together with you, we choose Ukrainian brands, you’re a super talented nation and our souls are with you.”
With London Fashion Week (LFW) fast apporaching, Frolov will be presenting his second solo LFW show on 19 February – something he said is “a big dream come true”.
“This year, my collection is dedicated to Crimea and my childhood memories of Crimea, because I spent all summers in my childhood in Crimea with my family.
“I spent my 16th and 17th years in Crimea and I found my first love in Crimea. It always [has] very touching memories for me, for my soul – about Crimea, Tatar culture [the indigenous people of Ukraine], about the sea, about the rocks in Balaklava… It all makes me super inspired to show it in my collection.”
Frolov's designs are at odds with the environment in which they were created (Andrew Grey /PA)
We can likely expect bold colours, risque designs and a lot of sparkle in the upcoming collection – which is at odds with the environment it was created in.
“Our brand is about celebration, about evening gowns, about concert dresses, about crystals, embroidery, sparkling things. And right now, it’s a big challenge to produce these things when you’re hearing bombs. At the same time you’re sewing crystals or doing embroidery on the dress, it [gives you] very contrasting feelings.
“But I’m so proud of my team, because we can do the best. So we can’t stop – this is our power, this is our strength, that we won’t stop. They can’t stop us just with the bombs – if they don’t kill us, they will make us stronger. And we will continue doing the best dresses and make this world more beautiful.”
Words: Prudence Wade, PA. Images: PA
