Paris Fashion Week SS24 Highlights: Dior's dark femininity

For Dior SS24 models walked down a bright pink and yellow striped catwalk, while a video installation by Italian artist Elena Bellantoni played on huge screens, but the mood on the catwalk was far more sedate than the setting.

Called ‘NOT HER’, the installation featured a rotating roster of feminist slogans ranging from the serious (‘I am not only a mother, wife, daughter. I am a woman.’) to the ironic (‘Save your marriage, iron properly’).

When it came to the clothes, black was a huge trend on the autumn/winter catwalks and it looks set to continue for spring. Dior's show follows on from Dolce & Gabbana's almost all-black presentation in Milan, while Prada and Gucci both made the case for dark spring shades of grey.

(Vianney Le Caer/AP)

Dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri could never be accused of being a one-note designer, however, and her spring collection was as diverse as ever.

The black ensembles ranged from structured coats and ladylike off-the-shoulder midi dresses to vampy lace gowns and tasseled skirts.

Reflecting the feminist art theme, there were plenty of practical coats and jackets for everyday wear, plus a myriad of white shirts, including one-shoulder varieties.

(Vianney Le Caer/AP)

There was also a grungy sensibility too with mohair sweater dresses, tie-dye dungaree dresses and chunky, flat lace-up boots.

Crinkly patent moto jackets and leather Matrix-style coats brought a hint of Noughties to the collection.

In contrast with the boots made for stomping, many of the models wore court shoes with kitten heels and gladiator straps

(Vianney Le Caer/AP)

A flourish of pink rose motifs arrived towards the end along with the slogan ‘We want kids but we want roses too’.

The beauty look – scraped back hair and a diffused plum lip – gave a chic-goth kind of vibe.

Jennifer Lawrence (Thibault Camus/AP)

The art installation faded to fuchsia as Grazia Chiuri appeared on the catwalk briefly, greeted by applause from the audience.

Trend watchers will also be interested to note that the crisp white shirt was the top-half of choice for the A-list front row crew with Jennifer Lawrence pairing hers with chic dark trousers and Charlize Theron contrasting hers with a floor length, sheer beaded skirt. Spanish pop star Rosalia teamed her white shirt with a dark pinafore dress.

Charlize Theron (Thibault Camus/AP)