London Fashion Week SS22 highlights: Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha's SS22 collection was entitled simply "Daughter" and was a lavish presentation of looks that evoked childhood and white bed linen and First Holy Communion, offset with darker black looks, plenty of pearls and, in many cases, shiny ruby red slippers.

One of the most hotly anticipated shows of each season, Rocha is fashion royalty and her post-pandemic comeback did not disappoint. Rocha sent models down the catwalk at St Bartholomew’s Church enveloped in luxurious brocades in delicate ivory and lilac shades, plenty of popin, daisy cut broderie anglaise, acres of tulle and embellishment aplenty.

Like fellow LFW star Molly Goddard (who was also inspired by childhood this season), Rocha is a master of voluminous looks and paired frothy dresses & skirts with more mannish brocade and heavy satin coats and jackets, as well as an oversized leather biker. For a number of looks the romanticism was toughened up with over the knee laced boots and off-kilter styling, such as chunky knit cardigans slung insouciantly off one shoulder giving the illusion of a cape. Nineties-style nighties and slips offered up another key dress shape.

Pearls were everywhere. Embroidered onto knitwear, dresses and skirts, employed as straps on bags and shoes and even stuck to socks, providing a key trend cue for the season. Apart from those over the knee boots, also of note were the ballet flats (again these were seen at Goddard's show) which look set to be the clog of SS22 (expect to see them everywhere).

Rocha's flats came in shiny ruby red, black, ivory, ballerina pink and vivid violet. They provided the perfect contrast and complement to the romantic looks with plenty of pearl embellishments and straps to elevate them. On the subject of elevation, the chunky platform Mary Janes, also heavily embellished, will surely be a hit and no doubt high street designers have already taken note.

Like many designers at LFW this season, Rocha did not hold back. And we're glad of it.

Images: Ben Broomfield for Simone Rocha.