London Fashion Week AW24 Highlights: Burberry's Daniel Lee plays with the classics

Burberry closed out London Fashion Week in a huge marquee in London's Victoria Park emblazoned with the signature Burberry check design – in an emerald green, gold, white and brown colourway. Under this canopy creative director Daniel Lee presented a collection that played with the storied British house's signature design codes.

This is the third time Lee has decided on an outdoor space as the setting for his London Fashion Week show; he chose Kennington Park for his first show, and then the Highbury Fields in north London for his second.

And this is his third collection at the helm of the iconic British heritage brand, since taking over from his predecessor Riccardo Tisci in September 2022. Fittingly for the season, which is always the strongest for a brand best known for its trench coat, it focused mainly on outerwear and other winter favourites.

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After the lights went out and music started playing – Amy Winehouse’s Back To Black was played twice – the first model emerged wearing a different take on that classic Burberry trench coat, with buttons on the right-hand side. There were also shearling, military-inspired and tailored coats – one with a huge feathered collar and a squiggly zip.

Other models wore a parka coat with the Burberry print as the lining, and a bold fur gilet with a capital B emblem plastered on the side, with a Burberry scarf over their heads.

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But a boxy oversized khaki pinstriped suit almost stole the show (it was Naomi Campbell in a beaded maxi dress who did). Other stand-outs being the different variations of spilt-leg trousers, flowy maxi skirts with high slits, turtle-neck tops with elongated feathers on the shoulders, and a leopard print silk blouse.

Of course, accessories were also incorporated into the looks, including the Burberry silk scarf that was worn over some of the model’s head, and satchel and duffle bags.

This being Burberry and the grand finale of London Fashion Week, the stars came out in support. American Vogue's Dame Anna Wintour was front row, along with musician Skepta, supermodel Jourdan Dunn and long-distance runner Sir Mo Farah. Also present were Bridgeton’s Jonathan Bailey, American actress Gabrielle Union and British screen star Olivia Colman.

Skepta attends the Burberry show (PA Media)