Follow us

Menu
PARTNER WITH USFREE NEWSLETTER
VISIT TheIndustry.beauty

LFW: JW Anderson - the Tudors meet the ravers

Lauretta Roberts
18 September 2016

If you only get time to study one catwalk show from London Fashion Week, make it JW Anderson. It's difficult to know where to start and you won't absorb it all in one sitting, but it's worth investing the time.

As ever Jonathan Anderson played with the idea of gender in this show, which we have come to expect from the only designer to have held both the Men's and Women's Designer of the Year titles from the British Fashion Awards.

The designer took his inspiration from the Tudors with models wearing 21st century versions of the doublet, which back in the day of Henry VIII of course was a men's garment.

This time round they came in slash-sleeved versions embellished with a multitude of straps teamed with ombre handkerchief hem skirts, which looked like they came straight from the pool-side in Ibiza (another key influence). There were also quilted slim doublet-style jackets styled over asymmetric-hemmed skirts and long-line rolled hem knitted versions, which gave a pleasing dropped waist effect when paired with full skirts.

But it wasn't all about separates, there were a multitude of desirable dresses, where ombre once again featured strongly as did linen, which no doubt was an influence from Anderson's native Northern Ireland. Midi was the key length here but Anderson ended the show with two above the knee and bare shouldered looks (one ombre on top of black, one white on black) which were both youthful and chic.

When you have finished studying the clothes, take the time to look at the details and accessories. Anderson is also creative director at LVMH-owned Loewe and as such is deft at creating desirable, luxe accessories. Rope-handled cylinder bags were a fresh idea and a nice move-on from the now ubiquitous bucket bag and the laced knee boots made the collection more weatherproof - those hanky hemmed skirts can be paired with boots earlier in the season and sandals later. The ankle-tie low-heeled sling back pumps in teal and black will no doubt see out and simultaneously spawn some high-street homages.

Increasingly Anderson is gaining a reputation for his jewellery too and giant bobbly bangles were a strong feature along with very-mis-matched, very big earrings.

If all of that sounds a bit of a mish-mash, it wasn't. In less skilled hands, it may have been however. Only JW Anderson could unite the Tudors with the ravers and have it all make perfect sense.

Free NewsletterVISIT TheIndustry.beauty
cross