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Editors' top reads: News from Burberry, Farfetch, Superdry and more...

TheIndustry.fashion Team
02 February 2024

Here are some of this week’s news and features highlights handpicked by TheIndustry.fashion team.

Burberry Blue descended on Harrods' hallowed halls this LFW

Last season, Burberry certainly turned the heads of Londoners at Bond Street’s underground station after it updated signage with the confusing, yet fabulous blue facades. The British brand is continuing with the same momentum this fashion season, taking over another quintessential British landmark – Harrods.

Not only does this partnership mark fashion month, but it is the first lavish event of Harrods’ 175th anniversary year. The month-long takeover, which runs 1-29 February, will see Harrods’ "green men", who greet customers at each entrance, undergo a blue makeover. They’ll be kitted out in Burberry’s new "knight blue" check, which was introduced by designer Daniel Lee for Spring 2024.

Many collaborations have taken place between the iconic department store and luxury brands such as Dior and Louis Vuitton, but none quite to this extent.

Chloé Burney, Senior News and Features Writer.

Jose Neves Farfetch

Farfetch poised for "steady and thoughtful" growth under Coupang? Let's hope so.

South Korean retail giant completed its rescue deal for global luxury platform Farfetch. The deal involves a $500 million injection of emergency cash into the Farfetch business and appears to have been rushed through to fend off opposition from a group of angry Farfetch shareholders who sought to contest it.

The shareholders, who organised themselves under the name of The 2027 Ad Hoc Group, believed that the deal was value-destroying and it certainly is for them. They also said they didn't believe the company had been fairly marketed to other potential buyers and that Farfetch itself could have sought to meet its financial obligations by spinning off its non-core assets, rather than opting for a fire sale.

Their efforts appear to have been thwarted as the deal went through, though they have no plans to go quietly. For its part Coupang is now promising to pursue a path of "steady and thoughtful" growth for Farfetch, which would make a change since the past 17 years have been a rollercoaster ride for the company. We take a look at the events leading up to the deal and do our best to summarise the key milestones in Farfetch's history in this in-depth feature.

Lauretta Roberts, Co-founder, CEO and Editor-in-Chief.

Spoke

Spoke launches new TV campaign to coincide with Six Nations

Following on from its successful ‘Jack the Mannequin’ TV campaign, which first aired during ITV1’s coverage of the Six Nations rugby tournament in 2021, custom-fit menswear brand Spoke has created a new tongue-in-cheek campaign with the strapline ‘Ridiculously well fit’.

It is once again being supported by a media for equity deal with ITV AdVentures, which takes a minority stake in the business in return for advertising time across its network, rather than cash.

It offers a great opportunity for a growing brand like Spoke to reach a much wider audience, especially given the cost of TV advertising. It’s also clearly been a successful route for the brand to take, as Spoke Founder and CEO, Ben Farren, says the reach is "unparalleled" and that the media for equity deal "unlocks the world of TV advertising for smaller companies".

The new ad is once again set to hit Spoke’s target audience as it is being aired during the latest Six Nations, which starts this evening with France versus Ireland on ITV1. Farren says there are "few better places to find our customers than watching live sport", so he’s clearly on to something good, especially with brand awareness tripling the first time round.

Tom Bottomley, Contributing Editor.

Superdry

Superdry boss holds talks over takeover of fashion firm

I've often wondered why Julian Dunkerton returned to Superdry, the brand he co-founded with James Holder in 2003. He'd left in 2015 having achieved huge success taking a cult, niche brand and turning it into a global success and a publicly listed entity. Why not sit back and enjoy the fruits of that success? However, he was so unhappy with the direction the brand was taking after he left that he masterminded a boardroom coup in 2019 and re-installed himself at the helm.

He is without question a huge talent with huge passion for his brand. But you imagine his joy at wresting back control was short-lived as not long after, the pandemic, and all the stresses that brought with it, hit and trying to execute a turnaround under such conditions must have been a nightmare. Following news that its revenue had fallen by nearly a quarter (23.5%) to £219.8 million in the six months to the end of October, with adjusted loss nearly doubling to £25.3 million, talk of a potential CVA, and then a potential takeover, began to emerge.

Now it seems, Dunkerton himself wants to ensure, it is he who can win the business back and has informed the board he's attempting to orchestrate a takeover. He is nothing if not determined and I find myself rooting for him. Read the news here and further analysis of this story will be coming soon.

Lauretta Roberts, Co-founder, CEO and Editor-in-Chief.

Frasers

Frasers Group to take over former John Lewis site in Peterborough

Knowing Peterborough and Queensgate Shopping Centre very well, this news from Frasers Group captured my interest this week.

For a while now, the retail destination has felt a bit lacklustre, with a number of vacant units following store closures by John Lewis, NEXT and Topshop, to name a few, as well as Marks & Spencer's recently announced exit from the centre this April.

That being said, it has potential. I hope this new signing from Frasers Group, which will feature a new Frasers department store concept and Sports Direct, will be a catalyst for elevation, even if the space isn't expected to open for a while.

Sophie Smith, News Editor & Senior Writer.

Harris Reed

The Interview: Harris Reed, the pioneering designer, on the power of fluid fashion

London Fashion Week is mere days away now and, before it's even started, we know that one of the stars will be Harris Reed. The pioneering designer has championed a unique brand of sustainable, fluid fashion that has not only won him a multitude of high-profile fashion fans, but also the creative director's role at Parisian house Nina Ricci.

Reed is a unique talent and a thoughtful personality. I loved this interview in which he talks about how, from a very young age, fashion enabled him to explore different identities and helped him navigate his sexuality.

While his clothes are gender fluid, don't make the mistake of thinking that means the same as unisex clothing has meant in the past - clothes with little shape that men and women can thrown on. Reed's clothes celebrate the human form and bring out the best in the wearer, whoever they are. Just look at some of the examples in this piece – stunning...

He's promising big things for his next show and I for one can't wait.

Lauretta Roberts, Co-founder, CEO and Editor-in-Chief.

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