{"id":226896,"date":"2023-02-17T13:45:27","date_gmt":"2023-02-17T13:45:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theindustry.fashion\/?p=226896"},"modified":"2023-02-17T18:10:01","modified_gmt":"2023-02-17T18:10:01","slug":"show-talk-pure-london","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theindustry.fashion\/show-talk-pure-london\/","title":{"rendered":"Show talk: Pure London"},"content":{"rendered":"

The Pure London trade show at Olympia in Kensington on 12-14 February hit the right notes with exhibitors and buyers alike, and the feelgood factor was not in tune with the country\u2019s current economic woes.<\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Pure London Event Director, Gloria Sandrucci, said: \u201cFrom when the doors opened on Sunday, I have been extremely overwhelmed by the buzz, the energy, and the positivity from the entire fashion community and especially from our exhibitors and the buyers.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt has created such a nice atmosphere to be back at Olympia and in such a beautiful environment that looks elevated, colourful, and busy.\u00a0Everything has been well received, from the content programme to the beautiful catwalk, to the launch of The Independent Sustainability Toolkit and all the initiatives which together have really made the show stand out.\u201d<\/p>\n

We, took to the aisles on the final day to hear what some of the key exhibitors had to say.<\/p>\n

\"Pure

Gillian Ridley Whittle, Peachaus<\/p><\/div>\n

Gillian Ridley Whittle, Founder and CEO, Peachaus<\/strong><\/p>\n

It\u2019s actually been a brilliant show, our first time here, with great energy and lots of people. For us, as a new brand, we\u2019ve had lots of interest in our product and we\u2019ve opened up lots of connections \u2013 so I\u2019m really happy.<\/p>\n

We\u2019re an ethical underwear and lifestyle clothing brand which only launched at the end of March 2022. We say that we\u2019re \u2018bed to beach to bar\u2019, so our clothes go across different moments of your day \u2013 it flows.<\/p>\n

I\u2019ve been in the industry a long time. I was Head of Buying at Marks & Spencer and worked my way through up to Trading Director for underwear and beauty, before going to Australia and running Target\u2019s womenswear business. I then went to Myer \u2013 the premium Australian department store - and ran their beauty and kidswear business. Then I came back to the UK and was Topshop\u2019s Fashion Director.<\/p>\n

I\u2019d seen a lot and decided that the industry was doing too much damage to the planet and to the people, and it was profits at any cost. I felt that I had a responsibility to do it differently and to help drive much needed change in the fashion industry.<\/p>\n

Peachaus is a brand that\u2019s about giving back to people and the planet, and a platform to unite people to drive positive change. People love the femininity, the colours and the fact that it\u2019s really light, soft and comfortable, and they love the back story.<\/p>\n

People have particularly liked our light and delicate underwear, especially our \u2018Betula\u2019 bra which is all made out of recycled Italian yarns, and our cotton sleepwear, particularly our embroidered shirt and shorts set in organic cotton.<\/p>\n

Pure has been really well set up, I love our stand and positioning. It\u2019s a really great way for a brand like ours to expose ourselves to retailers and to get feedback. I came with a very open mind, I didn\u2019t know who was going to be here, but the reaction has been great.<\/p>\n

We\u2019ve just come out of a two month pop-up covering Christmas in Fenwick on Bond Street, on the main womenswear floor, and that was really good with great customer engagement.<\/p>\n

Pure has been really positive as we now look to pivot the business into wholesale as well as retail, having started out as a direct-to-consumer brand from our website. I now want to partner with the right wholesale partners and agents to get our brand out to a wider audience and increase awareness.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Silvana Landa, Landa<\/p><\/div>\n

Silvana Landa, Co-Founder and CEO, Landa<\/strong><\/p>\n

It\u2019s our first time showing in the UK and the show has been good for us. We weren\u2019t sure what to expect. We were in Copenhagen last week at CIFF, and it was very different to this. There tends to be more agencies with stands here. However, we have gained a few new customers at Pure, which is encouraging. We only currently supply the National Gallery and Wolf & Badger in the UK, and we sell really well with them.<\/p>\n

We\u2019ve only been established four and a half years. I am originally from Argentina and my mum is Italian, so the design influences come from that, but I live in Dublin \u2013 and have done for 20 years as I married an Irishman, so the brand is based in Ireland where we supply the likes of Brown Thomas, and a number of high-end boutiques. We\u2019re also now supplying Zalando and we are developing our business in\u00a0 Germany, the Netherlands, Sweden and Belgium.<\/p>\n

The UK market is a very attractive market to us and we feel we have the right product, prices and strategy for here. We\u2019d love to partner up with the right department stores \u2013 the likes of Selfridges, John Lewis, Liberty and some of the high-end boutiques, as well as the marketplaces like Net-a-Porter. That\u2019s our ambition.<\/p>\n

We\u2019re not too convinced with our positioning at Pure, because of our price point \u2013 our best-selling bag retails at almost \u20ac400. It may have been better for us if we were located in an area amongst other brands and designers who have similar prices and target market to ours. We may consider doing Scoop next time, but we\u2019ll see. Overall we are happy as we have written new business, and people say you don\u2019t write orders at your first show.<\/p>\n

The collection is predominantly leather hand bags and accessories. Leather to us is a sustainable material because it lasts forever. Also, our products are very well made in Spain. Vegan products don\u2019t last!<\/p>\n

Our leather phone bags have been popular at the show, and also the faux shearling version. They retail below \u20ac100, so that has worked well here.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Michael Waterman, Love Rocks<\/p><\/div>\n

Michael Waterman, Founder and Designer, Love Rocks<\/strong><\/p>\n

We\u2019ve had a great response and a very good show. I don\u2019t do many shows, but I always do Pure \u2013 so this is where people know they can get me. It\u2019s been patchy, but when we\u2019re busy, we\u2019re busy. I like the Olympia venue, and I\u2019m pleased that we\u2019re downstairs because as a jewellery brand I love being mixed with the clothes on the same level. It all complements each other and I think it\u2019s easier for buyers. We\u2019ve been upstairs in the past, but this works better.<\/p>\n

We\u2019ve seen lots of independents, and some department stores, but not so many store groups \u2013 mind you, there\u2019s not many of them left! We have seen lots of new customers too, so that\u2019s been very positive as that\u2019s what we come here for really.<\/p>\n

I call our jewellery \u2018cutting edge glamour\u2019, the kind of thing you\u2019d see on the catwalk, in Ibiza or on \u2018Strictly Come Dancing\u2019. It\u2019s fun, funky, colourful and sparkly dressing up jewellery, but also good quality and for women of every age. We\u2019re selling in-season, so this collection has a 4-6 week delivery from order.<\/p>\n

I\u2019m best known for big earrings, and our beaded earrings are popular \u2013 statement pieces, but affordable. Our products retail between \u00a320-\u00a375, so it\u2019s not low-end high street prices \u2013 it\u2019s a bit above that. Fenwick is a key account.<\/p>\n

I\u2019ve been in jewellery for about 40 years, but I\u2019ve had Love Rocks about 12 years now. Prior to this I had Mikey jewellery, but this is more like that boho festival look. For summer we go a little more out of the zone because everyone wants bright colours, especially after the Covid pandemic. There\u2019s more of a desire to dress up.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Paul Tobin, North & South Footwear<\/p><\/div>\n

Paul Tobin, UK agent at North & South Footwear Ltd, showing Macarena and Natural World<\/strong><\/p>\n

We\u2019ve had a really good show in general. We also showed last July, which was our first time back at Pure as an agency in a long time, and we had a fantastic show then. We\u2019d been doing Scoop previously, but we thought that with the relaunch of Pure it would get a lot of press and be beneficial to us. It\u2019s certainly been a success for us.<\/p>\n

We\u2019re showing two Spanish footwear brands, Macarena and Natural World, which are actually from the same village, Arnedo in La Rioja, which is the second largest footwear producing town in Spain, but is perhaps best known for producing wine!<\/p>\n

The Macarena slipper collection is something we are just starting to push here in the UK for autumn\/winter. It\u2019s something the brand has started to do as a second line to what they are known for, which is espadrilles \u2013 huge in the summer. The brand was 50 years old last year, and the business was built on espadrilles.<\/p>\n

We\u2019ve also got the SS23 collection here, which is short-order and can be ordered now for delivery at the end of April. \u2018Java 22\u2019 is the key style \u2013 a mid -wedge espadrille with a scoop front and an ankle strap. We have it in 15 different colours of suede, including orange and electric blue. The Macarena retail prices go from \u00a370 up to \u00a3140. We deal with anyone from small independent boutiques to department stores like Hoopers and Sandersons.<\/p>\n

We\u2019ve seen a lot of existing customers, but the reason why we do the show is to get new customers and we\u2019ve got about half a dozen on board this time. It\u2019s been worthwhile.<\/p>\n

We will definitely do Pure again as opposed to Scoop as I think we fit into that spot price-wise which is in between the mid-market and upper level. I think there\u2019s maybe a better representation of that here at Pure rather than at Scoop.<\/p>\n

Natural World is a eco-friendly brand best known for producing traditional Spanish pumps, but in organic cotton and using natural rubber. The shoes also have a strawberry essence, which goes down well. They also do Birkenstock-style sandals with natural rubber sole units and cork footbeds infused with a high level of latex for flexibility. They retail at \u00a339.99 \u2013 a very competitive price-point. The most popular style is the two bar, or two strap, similar to Birkenstock\u2019s classic style. We\u2019ve been carrying Natural World for five years now, and we\u2019ve got over 100 independent stockists in the UK.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Sinead Bradford, Jayley<\/p><\/div>\n

Sinead Bradford, Marketing Manager, Jayley<\/strong><\/p>\n

We\u2019ve done Pure for about seven years now and this has probably been the busiest show we have done to date. It\u2019s been absolutely packed on our stand, so it\u2019s been great. Our catwalk show has gone down really well, and with having a stand right by the catwalk it\u2019s drawn people to us. I also think people are starting to recognise our brand a bit more. We\u2019ve seen the retailers we expected to see and many more. We\u2019ve opened up a lot of new accounts, as well as seeing our repeat customers.<\/p>\n

The collection is bold and bright and a bit like an adult\u2019s costume box. It\u2019s feelgood dressing and a lot of trying on has been going on. Our colourful and sustainable bamboo faux fur pieces have been very popular. They wholesale at about \u00a3100.<\/p>\n

Around 90% of what\u2019s on the stand is for autumn\/winter, but we do also have a short-order summer collection here \u2013 in stock and ready to go. Our warehouse is in Stoke-on-Trent. The company (called Ubi Group) originates from Shanghai \u2013 it\u2019s a family business with a history in production \u2013 but the family moved to Stoke about 20 years ago to set up here. We bring the colour to Stoke!<\/p>\n

We\u2019re also a retail company, with an online business, a store in Stoke, which we\u2019ve had for 10 years, and one in Birmingham, which we\u2019ve had for three years now. There are plans for retail expansion, and we are looking at doing a couple of pop-up shops as we\u2019ve seen massive demand in London and Manchester. Anywhere like Soho in London would be great for us, and there seems to be a demand for it.<\/p>\n

We\u2019d like to launch the new collection, test the market and get a feel for a location in a pop-up shop first because people tend to shop Jayley slightly differently in different areas. For instance, in Liverpool they absolutely love our bright and bold pieces, but actually in Stoke we sell a lot more of the neutral colours.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Zoe Baldack, Blank<\/p><\/div>\n

Zoe Baldock, Sales Manager, Blank<\/strong><\/p>\n

There\u2019s been a really different mix of buyers here. I don\u2019t know whether that\u2019s to do with the brand mix, or Pure not now coinciding Scoop. It\u2019s always good to introduce the brand to new people, and we have taken on some new accounts here \u2013 not many but a few that seem quite strong. We\u2019ve also had dedicated appointments with existing customers. We do invite them to our showroom in Shoreditch as well, but sometimes it just makes more sense for them to come straight to the show and have a time slot with us.<\/p>\n

Our stand is right by the runway, which is always where we like to be. The brand is 22 years old and we\u2019ve always done Pure. I\u2019d say this has been slightly slower than previous shows for us, but that could be with Scoop being two weeks earlier \u2013 which means Pure has had to be another visit to London for buyers. Pure and Scoop have normally been on the same weekend, so buyers have tended to dart between the Saatchi Gallery and Kensington Olympia. However, we have generally seen the retailers we expected to see \u2013 or have showroom appointments for them.<\/p>\n

Some buyers at Pure have considered us in the higher price-point bracket \u2013 which we\u2019re not typically. Our dresses (which wholesale at up to \u00a3120) are our biggest sales touch point, followed by tops. Statement dresses, not just evening wear but smart day wear, are key for us. There\u2019s always something vibrant and nine times out of ten you can tell from a mile off if someone is wearing a Blank piece. Whether it\u2019s a spring\/summer collection or autumn\/winter, there\u2019s always embroidery and lots of colour and prints.<\/p>\n

We\u2019ve got some other shows coming up, such as Coterie in New York and Fig in Texas at the end of March, so that\u2019s when we will take AW23 orders up until.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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