{"id":167144,"date":"2020-08-14T14:48:00","date_gmt":"2020-08-14T14:48:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theindustry.fashion\/instead-of-chasing-victorias-secret-should-ms-have-taken-a-long-tall-bet\/"},"modified":"2021-08-06T12:06:52","modified_gmt":"2021-08-06T12:06:52","slug":"instead-of-chasing-victorias-secret-should-ms-have-taken-a-long-tall-bet","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theindustry.fashion\/instead-of-chasing-victorias-secret-should-ms-have-taken-a-long-tall-bet\/","title":{"rendered":"Instead of chasing Victoria's Secret should M&S have taken a Long Tall bet?"},"content":{"rendered":"

From disaster springs opportunity and for those retailers, with a war chest and plenty of dosh on the balance sheet, there is a chance to pick and choose from brands and retailers falling into COVID administration<\/strong> like dominoes.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

During the height of lockdown, Boohoo moved quickly to raise \u00a3198 million for new M&A opportunities<\/strong>, in a private placing leaving the company with around \u00a3500 million in cash.<\/p>\n

Boohoo had already paid \u00a318.2 million for Karen Millen and Coast\u2019s e-commerce businesses back in August 2019. This followed\u00a0Boohoo purchasing a controlling stake in PrettyLittleThing for \u00a33.3 million in 2017 (it bought the remaining shares earlier this year), Nasty Gal in 2018 for \u00a316 million and MissPap, bought for an undisclosed sum in 2019.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s always important for larger, mono-brand businesses to diversify,<\/strong> even more so when the parent brand has been tainted by allegations questionable supply chains and standards as Boohoo. has.<\/p>\n

In June, this year, Boohoo also acquired the online businesses and all associated intellectual property of Oasis and Warehouse<\/strong> for a knockdown \u00a35.25 million from Hilco Capital. This followed the Oasis and Warehouse Group shutting down all stores and concessions at the end of April, after administrators failed to find a buyer.<\/p>\n

Sky News<\/em> reported in June that Marks & Spencer and Next were competing to take control of the UK arm of the lingerie brand Victoria\u2019s Secret.<\/strong> The US underwear brand put its British division, which has 25 stores and employs more than 800 people, into administration earlier in June 2020. The UK division had slumped to a pre-tax loss of \u00a3171m.<\/p>\n

\"Victoria's

Victoria's Secret Liverpool<\/p><\/div>\n

M&S and Next were understood to be competing with at least one other bidder to take control of the franchise for Victoria\u2019s Secret in the UK.<\/p>\n

What real value does owning a subsidiary arm of Victoria\u2019s Secret add when you could just wholesale the brand if you really wanted it? You won\u2019t be able to control the overall brand image and strategy from a US brand that is still looking dated and sexist, despite dropping its extravagant \u201cAngels\u201d so-called fashion shows.<\/p>\n

Does Victoria Secret\u2019s resonate enough with UK consumers?<\/strong> Was it around long enough to make long-term inroads and have any consumer recognition and loyalty? The first UK Victoria\u2019s Secret store only opened in 2005\u00a0at London Heathrow Airport, Terminal 5.<\/p>\n

In July 2020, Next was reported as having been chosen as the \u201cpreferred\u201d UK franchise partner<\/strong> for Victoria\u2019s Secret and has agreed an outline deal to takeover the business on this side of the pond. Part of that outline deal includes the fashion retailer securing an \u201cexclusivity\u201d agreement until the end of September.<\/p>\n

Dependent on price, the talk of M&S and Next being interested in Victoria\u2019s Secret\u2019s UK arm seems like a frivolous waste of money<\/strong> \u2013 M&S already has a 27% share of the lingerie market and 36% of the market for bras \u2013 when brands such as Long Tall Sally, which specialises in taller and larger sizes, sold at a premium, have the potential to fill gaps within their consumer offer.<\/p>\n

Founded in 1976 by\u00a0Judy Rich, the Long Tall Sally has been owned by the\u00a0German direct-to-consumer retailer TriStyle Mode GmbH since 2016,<\/strong> and, it was announced in June 2020,<\/a> that the brand\u2019s websites and mail order operations across the\u00a0UK, US, Canada, Germany, France, New Zealand and Australia\u00a0would be wound down and closed by September 2020.\u00a0The brand had previously closed all its physical retail stores in 2019.<\/p>\n

A brand statement said: \u201cLong Tall Sally has relied on significant financial shareholder support.<\/strong> The sudden financial impact of\u00a0Covid-19 has further weakened the business, putting it in an unsustainable position. Over the last three months, the business has taken advantage of the Government Job Retention Scheme, however the outlook for the coming months is now so uncertain that\u00a0TriStyle\u00a0can no longer support the business.<\/p>\n

\u201cLong Tall Sally management team with the support of its shareholders plan to conclude the business in an orderly manner over the coming months,<\/strong> working closely with its partners and suppliers to find acceptable solutions regarding obligations and contracts.\u201d<\/p>\n

Long Tall Sally had total global sales of \u00a334.3million in 2019, down from \u00a341.9million in 2018, partly due to store closures. The company made a loss of \u00a32.4million, up from \u00a31.9million in 2018.<\/p>\n

TriStyle\u00a0bought Long Tall Sally, alongside its subsidiary brands Peter Hahn and Madeleine, from investment firm Amery Capital for \u00a330m four years ago.\u00a0TriStyle group turnover 2018\/2019 was \u20ac583.3 million and it targets the 45-plus age group.<\/strong><\/p>\n

This demographic is perfect for somebody like M&S and these underserved consumers, looking for size 7-13 size women\u2019s shoes, and longer and taller clothing sizes, are more than happy to pay more for the privilege. The database alone is worth buying.\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

There are rumours Long Tall Sally\u2019s intellectual property and brand has been sold to an undisclosed online retailer.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Buying struggling brands requires the impetus to turn them around in a tough market. Just buying them for the name, despite the price, could be a waste of time and money. Looking for potential niches and gaps in your offer is a better fit for brands that have unfortunately found themselves struggling and could flourish in the post COVID retail market both on and offline.<\/p>\n

While Victoria\u2019s Secret may have the glamour, Long Tall Sally has a captive market.<\/strong> It could be the better bet.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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