{"id":166121,"date":"2020-04-14T08:56:00","date_gmt":"2020-04-14T08:56:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theindustry.fashion\/the-interview-timothy-everest-tailor-designer-and-founder-mbe\/"},"modified":"2021-08-06T12:05:25","modified_gmt":"2021-08-06T12:05:25","slug":"the-interview-timothy-everest-tailor-designer-and-founder-mbe","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theindustry.fashion\/the-interview-timothy-everest-tailor-designer-and-founder-mbe\/","title":{"rendered":"The Interview: Timothy Everest, tailor, designer and founder, MbE"},"content":{"rendered":"

Timothy Everest honed his tailoring skills at Tommy Nutter\u00a0on Savile Row in the 1980\u2019s before going his own way and starting his own bespoke business in East London in 1989. He quickly became one\u00a0the\u00a0leaders of\u00a0what was\u00a0then\u00a0termed\u00a0the \"New Bespoke Movement\"<\/strong>,\u00a0bringing\u00a0designer attitudes to the traditional skills of Savile Row tailoring.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

In more recent times, elegant casual pieces have been added to his offer and, after exiting the Timothy Everest business three years ago, he has moved onto create a new business and a new shop, at number 1 Fashion Street in East London, aptly named MbE<\/a>. That stands for Made by Everyone, though it\u2019s perhaps no coincidence that Everest also happens to be an MBE. With the coronavirus\u00a0currently\u00a0causing disruption, and giving many a chance to reflect, we caught up with him to talk about his recent past and how he\u2019s moving forward.<\/p>\n

What\u00a0your take on what\u2019s happening now?<\/strong><\/p>\n

These are very peculiar times. I was in New York working on new projects and\u00a0seeing some bespoke customers\u00a0at the end of February and the beginning of March, as I\u2019ve just started that side of my business up again,\u00a0and coronavirus wasn\u2019t really a conversation at the time.<\/p>\n

People were talking\u00a0more about the death of Madison Avenue,\u00a0Barneys closing\u00a0and how bad traditional retail was.\u00a0I was told that there\u2019s something like 60 empty units between 60th<\/sup>\u00a0and 82nd<\/sup>\u00a0Street, and it was very obvious just walking around. So,\u00a0the industry was generally\u00a0already\u00a0having a tough time\u00a0anyway, though there are a lot of\u00a0businesses doing well online.<\/p>\n

Then two weeks ago, all of sudden New York was in lockdown \u2013 it\u2019s just unbelievable how quickly this has all happened.\u00a0My trip went really well and I had some good things set up,\u00a0but\u00a0obviously everything is now on hold.\u00a0I planned to go out there four or five times this year, but now I\u2019m looking more\u00a0towards the\u00a0end of this year\u00a0to go out there again.\u00a0There\u00a0is\u00a0some good things to be done there if people still want to buy some clothing.\u00a0We measured up some\u00a0customers, but the thing is we now can\u2019t see them.<\/p>\n

To be fair, those customers have been pretty cool about it and are willing to wait it out, so I\u2019m very lucky.\u00a0We also had a lot of wedding suits business going on and now they\u2019ve all been postponed, but thankfully I haven\u2019t had any cancelled orders, and all of them have paid which is good, but it just puts everything on hold.<\/p>\n

How\u00a0and when\u00a0did you cease to be involved in the Timothy Everest business?<\/strong><\/p>\n

I\u2019ve not been part of the Timothy Everest business for the last three years.\u00a0I got into partnership when it was our 25th<\/sup>\u00a0anniversary, which was about five years ago, to help to build the business and take it to the next level. Unfortunately, this did not work out as planned, which led to me reluctantly exiting my own company. The Timothy Everest business still exists now, but is not me! Although frustrating in that I can\u2019t use my own name, it has given me the opportunity to think creatively and pursue new avenues.<\/p>\n

How do you view\u00a0the Timothy Everest business now?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Observing the current business is very different in that it is just a named brand, established in\u00a0Spitafields\u00a0in the 90\u2019s.\u00a0I actually started out in September 1989 as a bespoke tailor in\u00a0what was\u00a0a derelict house on\u00a0Princelet Street, off Brick Lane. I created a \"living brand\" that had personality and a story to tell, in what was the beginning of a wonderful journey that made a difference. In this day and age, narrative is key, and if you\u2019ve got some heritage, then that is gold. So, it\u2019s a shame that has been lost, but I wish the new owner every success. I am very proud to have created Timothy Everest and been part of the business for over two decades.<\/p>\n

\"Timothy<\/p>\n

So,\u00a0what is your new business?<\/strong><\/p>\n

I started a business two years ago called\u00a0MbE\u00a0\u2013 standing for\u00a0Made by\u00a0Everyone. That was an evolution of my previous business, offering a bespoke and made to measure service, along with some ready to wear. I opened a shop\u00a0at number 1\u00a0Fashion Street, just off Commercial Street in East London, just over a year ago.<\/p>\n

I had a call from an old \"garmento\" friend of mine who used to make a million shirts for the high street. His properties were factories and warehouses which were undergoing development. The corner unit, which goes back on to the old factory which is now office space, is now my shop which he let me have a good deal on.<\/p>\n

The unit actually used to be an old pub, where one of Jack the Ripper\u2019s victims once drank, and we\u2019ve renovated it to look like\u00a0the original\u00a0pub\u00a0fascia.\u00a0It\u2019s a really nice building and we\u2019ve got a little coffee shop in the front, and my head cutter, Lloyd, in the window cutting\u00a0away. We share the building with an architect, Chris Dyson of CDA Architects,\u00a0so we\u2019ve got retail downstairs and offices we share on the first floor, as well as a small roof terrace which looks back to the City,\u00a0which is great.<\/p>\n

The meeting\/fitting room on the first floor is not only good for our bespoke business, but good for our Elder Street creative consultancy business too.\u00a0I set that up with my partner, Danny Kellard. Elder Street is an evolution of my past work with the likes of Marks & Spencer, DAKS, Rapha, Rolls Royce and Superdry to name but a few. Elder Street has been working on MbE, along with La Martina and McLaren Automotive, and has several projects in play, though on hold just now with the current situation.<\/p>\n

On leaving Timothy Everest, I had to get on with something new, and we\u2019ve been very quietly building the\u00a0business before we start to make a noise. We\u2019ve just started to pick up from what was left behind, and that\u2019s why I was in New York so recently.<\/p>\n

What about online and\u00a0ready-to-wear?<\/strong><\/p>\n

We have a small online presence, but had planned to build a more complete offer from this autumn. That was something we were addressing going forward, as we were actually in the process of getting some new stock in, which we have held off for now. So, with the shop also being temporarily closed, we can\u2019t sell anything. Having said that, I wouldn\u2019t think\u00a0many\u00a0people will have clothes as a priority at the moment, although we will be hosting some online experiences exploring the new \"Zoom wardrobe\".<\/p>\n

\"Timothy<\/p>\n

How is the tailoring business in general?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Tailoring is still relevant, you\u2019ve just got to cut your cloth accordingly, no pun intended. In my previous incarnation in the Timothy Everest business, we had started to explore the future of tailoring, which we\u2019d always talked about. Reacting to our customers, we\u00a0started making more casual pieces over the last five years or more. We\u2019d noticed that in the City, which had been a great area for business for us, things were getting more relaxed.<\/p>\n

We did what we called \"shaken and stirred\" suits whereby customers could wear them to work, but if they went out for a drink after they didn\u2019t feel like they were still in a work suit. That market was changing, because a lot of people who were in the traditional areas of finance or insurance didn\u2019t want to wear a suit,\u00a0because they didn\u2019t have to and they also didn\u2019t want to be seen to be selling anything. So, separates and more casual pieces had become more important and, in fact, made to measure\u00a0has grown dramatically for us because that gives them something they can customise, and also have more immediate wear at a good price point.<\/p>\n

Also, the creative industries had moved in to the area where we\u2019ve always been in the East End. They wouldn\u2019t come to a\u00a0traditional\u00a0tailor because they only make suits, so we started making chore jackets, work shirts and all sorts of\u00a0other more casual products, which led to our ready to wear offer. It\u2019s where smart meets casual.<\/p>\n

So,\u00a0you saw more casual pieces as the way forward?<\/strong><\/p>\n

Well, we\u00a0were looking at a working title and I was basically consulting myself for the first time! I set myself and my team a task \u2013 under the working title of Mr Tim \u2013 looking at what that wardrobe would be like. We researched the market and looked at a lot of brands and, in particularly why certain British brands get to a certain size and\u00a0then\u00a0don\u2019t move forward.<\/p>\n

We were also looking at what\u00a0the newer brands were doing, and that kind of relaxed elegance appearing on social media and so on. We also looked at what the better corporate brands were up to, and the growth of such brands such as Suitsupply. We formulated\u00a0this idea which has basically now become\u00a0MbE.<\/p>\n

We\u2019d been making a lot of casual pieces, so the whole idea of the shop and \"Made by Everyone\" is that everything that\u2019s in there has come from a bespoke piece, or something that is similar to what we\u2019ve made for somebody before.<\/p>\n

If we think it\u2019s got traction then we make it into a piece that goes in to the collection, like one of the early chore jackets that we originally made for the actor,\u00a0Ralph Fiennes,\u00a0using some Japanese Kendo fabric. We\u2019ve got many derivatives of that including one in a Prince of Wales check, and another in a Japanese indigo yarn\u00a0mixed with a Shetland Tweed yard to make something different. So, we\u2019ve got more casual utilitarian pieces that you can dress up or down.\u00a0Things like our chore jacket and our \"Harrington Deluxe\" have\u00a0become almost like the new blazer.<\/p>\n

What\u2019s the \"Harrington Deluxe\"?<\/strong><\/p>\n

We\u2019ve worked with friends who have historically made for\u00a0Baracuta. We did this whole \"Icon\" collection, taking classic shapes and pieces that most people\u00a0know, but we re-worked and elevated them. We did a little book explaining where the Harrington derives, and then we explained how we owned it, as in our version. The one we made was in a very dark blue flannel which had a sculped facing on the inside \u2013 like a tailored suit, but with a very lightweight flannel lining.<\/p>\n

Everything has a history and there\u2019s no point playing around with the shapes\u00a0too much, because they\u2019ve always worked.\u00a0It\u2019s more about how we own an existing piece as a tailor, so the touch of the fabric, the details on the inside and perhaps a working cuff on the sleeve. Then we show people how to wear it.<\/p>\n

\"Timothy<\/p>\n

How have you done that?<\/strong><\/p>\n

We did a shoot with a guy who\u2019s\u00a0changing a wheel on a\u00a0vintage\u00a0Jensen\u00a0Interceptor, and\u00a0styled him up\u00a0wearing the navy blue Harrington, a Bengal stripe collarless shirt with a little Japanese cotton print neckerchief,\u00a0a British military pant with one single pocket in a chino colour\u00a0that we\u2019ve done\u00a0and some \"Playboy\" style shoes\u00a0by Marcus De. It\u2019s to show people how you can be casual but elegant at the same time.\u00a0That\u2019s exciting and it\u2019s going to become increasingly relevant now.\u00a0\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

How do you see the future of menswear?<\/strong><\/p>\n

We\u2019re trying to explore the future and\u00a0the fact that we are\u00a0all\u00a0now going to be working more remotely.\u00a0You can wear pretty much anything at home within reason, though you\u00a0may sometimes have\u00a0meetings via Zoom\u00a0where\u00a0people will\u00a0see you,\u00a0but ultimately\u00a0you want to be comfortable.\u00a0However, there are still going to be the points where you are going to meet people, and I was planning to get back on my soapbox and start to talk about what that modern wardrobe is.<\/p>\n

I think the biggest thing that has changed is that people do want to be more comfortable, but it\u2019s how do you stay casual\u00a0yet\u00a0elegant. I think that\u2019s\u00a0the\u00a0interesting angle. From my point of view, if we stop talking to people about how to dress up, and that doesn\u2019t necessarily mean how to wear black tie,\u00a0then we\u2019ll all basically just give up and be in jersey for the rest of our lives! So, I think there\u2019s an opportunity there.<\/p>\n

Then, on the tailoring side, it\u2019s become less about someone having to wear\u00a0a suit\u00a0for work, and more about wanting to wear one. We\u2019ve managed to pick up some new business from young guys who enjoy dressing up more to go out. One guy, in his late 20\u2019s, has a very successful heating engineering company in Guildford. I was being a\u00a0bit\u00a0facetious\u00a0when I asked him why he wanted me to make him a suit. He said he was in combat pants all week, with a tool belt round his waist and a polo shirt with his company name on it. He said it felt really good to get dressed up and take his then girlfriend \u2013 and now wife \u2013 out for dinner. I\u2019ve made him a few things now.<\/p>\n

There are still those special occasions too, not just\u00a0weddings, but just feeling good and going out. This will become even more relevant after the current crisis. I am positive there will be life after Covid-19 with some creative thinking.<\/p>\n

What positives can be taken from your new direction?<\/strong><\/p>\n

The positive thing is we don\u2019t have the overheads we had. We\u2019ve only got four staff at the moment, so that\u2019s all okay \u2013 we\u2019re managing to keep them going. I guess we also have more flexibility. Doing something else, and not being \"Timothy Everest\", means we don\u2019t necessarily have to be associated with what is now the old New Bespoke Movement.\u00a0I do\u00a0see a very bright future.<\/p>\n

What else might the future hold?<\/strong><\/p>\n

We were negotiating to acquire a small retail business in Mayfair. In principle we\u2019ve agreed terms, but that is all on hold. We planned to do it in September, and some weeks ago that kind of looked realistic, but let\u2019s see what happens.<\/p>\n

Our next reinvention is to have a place where we can create the environment that we feel that we need for what we are trying to do. Someone is retiring from an old established menswear business\u00a0who\u2019ve\u00a0I\u2019ve known for over 30 years, so we\u2019re looking at merging and creating a new legacy.<\/p>\n

Spitafields is in my blood, and where we are located is really cool and trendy, but there we are going to sell more\u00a0in the way of\u00a0cut-and-sew T-shirts, polo shirts and\u00a0some\u00a0outerwear pieces, like the Harrington. However, for the pure bespoke, you need to be near where all the action is, with the gentlemen\u2019s clubs, bars and hotels. So that\u2019s our next phase, getting back in Mayfair.\u00a0Watch this space as they say.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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