{"id":165537,"date":"2021-07-29T16:52:51","date_gmt":"2021-07-29T16:52:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theindustry.fashion\/in-depth-five-a-day-fashion-the-rise-of-plant-based-leather\/"},"modified":"2021-08-12T11:42:58","modified_gmt":"2021-08-12T11:42:58","slug":"in-depth-five-a-day-fashion-the-rise-of-plant-based-leather","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theindustry.fashion\/in-depth-five-a-day-fashion-the-rise-of-plant-based-leather\/","title":{"rendered":"In-Depth: Five a day fashion \u2013 the rise of plant-based \"leather\""},"content":{"rendered":"

The next time you are in the fruit and vegetable section of your local supermarket, hand-picking the source of your latest five-a-day, take a look at the potential origins of your next luxury handbag or accessory.<\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Plant leather is becoming big business. Driven by vegan and sustainable demands, apples, pineapples, grapes, mushrooms, and even mangoes, are being turned into forms of synthetic leather.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Just as meat-free has made in-roads into our diets, animal free leather alternatives are stealing a march on your wardrobes,<\/strong> mostly notably in accessories.<\/p>\n

How new is \u201cplant leather\u201d? Why are so many brands and designers turning to these new materials and is it really as green and sustainable as we\u2019re led to believe?<\/p>\n

Futures consultant Petah Marian says: \u201cThere is an emerging shift towards more vegan lifestyles, where some people are not wanting to wear leather. Plant-based leathers have also had a very positive rebrand with luxury brands like Stella McCartney and Nanushka making them aspirational items.\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n

Synthetic leather is divided into three categories: PU (polyurethane), PVC, and Bio-based. In 2020, the market was valued at over $30 billion.\u00a0Infinium Global Research<\/a>\u00a0published a global report in 2020 on the\u00a0Vegan Leather Market<\/a>\u00a0which estimated that the market for vegan leather will reach up to $89.6 billion by 2025, with a compound annual growth rate of 49.9%, in the forecast period (2019-2025).<\/p>\n

\u201cSome people perceive leather as being a luxury good, one that is durable and worthy of a premium price tag, but increasingly people are becoming concerned about the environmental impacts of the tanning process<\/strong>,\u201d says Marian.<\/p>\n

\u201cAs the processes around plant-based leathers have improved and the product has improved in tactility, consumers are becoming increasingly interested in buying products that are made from plant-based leather,<\/strong>\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

Marian thinks these leathers warrant a premium price tag: \u201cA lot of R&D is going into creating these new leathers and businesses are pushing them as innovation.<\/p>\n

\u201cAt the moment, there\u2019s not much consumer clarity around the differences between plant-based leathers and fake leathers made from polyurethane.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201cOperators in the space need to help consumers understand what plant leathers are made of, their current limitations and how they\u2019re working to get them to a more sustainable point. For instance, many plant-based leathers are coated with plastics and are not biodegradable,<\/strong>\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

Tyler Ellis, a Los Angeles based accessory designer and the daughter of the renowned American fashion designer Perry Ellis, has turned to apple leather for a capsule collection of premium bags. Founded in 2011, her eponymous label\u2019s \u201cApple Vogue\u201d collection, priced \u00a31,000 - \u00a31,878, is handcrafted in Florence using a special custom apple leather that has been created by the Italian ecologic textile developer Mabel Srl.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Tyler Ellis Bristol tote made from apple leather<\/p><\/div>\n

\u201cI have clients who lead plant-based lifestyles and so I think that it\u2019s important to listen to my surroundings and offer alternate materials to expand the brand\u2019s core.<\/strong> I have previously worked with synthetic leathers, which of course are 100% man-made, but are not bio-degradable,\u201d says Ellis.<\/p>\n

\u201cI have constantly been on the lookout for eco-friendly, natural materials,<\/strong> but until discovering this specific type of apple leather, I was not completely satisfied with the quality of the samples.\u00a0For me, it\u2019s about touch and feel,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

But just because it\u2019s not derived from an animal, it doesn\u2019t necessarily mean that plant-based leather is cheaper. \u201cThe apple leather itself is less expensive [than traditional animal leathers] to purchase directly, but once duties are incorporated, the prices equal out, because duties on apple leather are over double those on real leather,<\/strong>\u201d Ellis explains.<\/p>\n

However it is as durable as traditional animal leathers, says Ellis: \u201cIt\u2019s intentional grainy texture, meant to replicate natural animal skins, deters scratches and blemishes.\u201d she says.\u00a0\u201cAs of now, the colour options are very limited and the leather is not yet fully bio-degradable,<\/strong> as a portion is still synthetic.\u201d<\/p>\n

Ross Longhorn is co-founder of\u00a0Wave<\/a>, a producer of biodegradable phone cases. He says: \u201cAs a business that is focused on sustainability, we are constantly looking to experiment with innovative materials and provide affordable eco-friendly products. Unfortunately, many \u2018vegan leather\u2019 products are made from plastic<\/strong> and that's why we chose to move away from conventional materials that are harmful for the planet.\u201d<\/p>\n

Wave has chosen a cactus leather produced by Desserto, who are based in Mexico, and is mainly used across the fashion and automotive industry.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Desserto cactus leather<\/p><\/div>\n

\u201cWe scoured the internet for leather alternatives that could be used for wallets or card holders; cactus leather stood out as it is soft and durable. Specifically, the leather is produced from cultivating the same plantation, meaning no plants are damaged in the production process,<\/strong>\u00a0so it seemed like a no-brainer.\u00a0We also tested Pinatex, which is made from waste pineapple, but the material wasn't suitable as it made the end product too thick,\u201d says Longhorn.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt has been a learning curve for us in terms of product development and material testing. We've found that non-animal leather reacts differently to embossing\/engraving<\/strong> and there's a range of thicknesses available that can impact the final product considerably,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

Other materials Wave is looking at using are T\u00f4mtex, a 100% bio-based material created from chitin from shell seafood waste or mushrooms, and Mykk\u00f6, also made using fungi.<\/p>\n

Genia Mineeva, founder of\u00a0BEEN London<\/a>, an accessories brand using vegan and recycled leather, says: \u201cFrom animal cruelty on one end to extremely negative environmental impact on the other, virgin animal leather is linked to deforestation, excessive water usage, waterway pollution and huge CO2 emissions<\/strong> that are inextricably linked to global warming. The annual global emissions from leather production are equal to that of 30 million cars!\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhat is often called \u2018vegan leather\u2019 is usually just PU or PVC (essentially plastic) and again, was never an option for us because of the environmental impact,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

A social enterprise, BEEN London only uses materials that would otherwise be discarded.<\/strong>\u00a0Wallets start from \u00a375, clutches \u00a3100, and going up to \u00a3275 for larger tote bags.<\/p>\n

Pinatex is made from discarded pineapple leaves, an agricultural waste product of the pineapple harvest, which produces 13 tonnes of pineapple leaf waste each year globally. An estimated 3.7 trillion apples are thrown away each year for imperfections \u2013 FRUMAT dries and grounds these unwanted peels and cores of apples into a powder which is then mixed with a binder and pigment to be spread onto a canvas until it turns into a leather-like material.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe work with Pinatex and FRUMAT apple skin because they look and feel great and provide beautiful solutions to waste. Note, we don't currently work with any of the plant-based leathers that require growing crops to make it, such as cactus leather and mushroom leather,\u201d says Mineeva.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe biggest frustration is the fact that a lot of these leathers require some sort of protective coating that is often recyclable and in some plant leathers is biodegradable, but I\u2019ve spent years searching for someone to come up with a COMPOSTABLE solution. Beware of \u2018biodegradable' - it might mean that things biodegrade into millions of plastic particles!<\/strong>\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe have now found an amazing partner \u2018Biophilica\u2019 who developed \u2018TreeKind\u2019. I think this might be revolutionary. A green waste-based leather alternative that is compostable.<\/strong> We\u2019re excited to be the first brand to test it in a product and have exciting news to come in this space,\u201d says Mineeva.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Mercer Appleskin sneakers<\/p><\/div>\n

The sneaker and sports shoe industry has been one of the biggest endorses of these new plant leathers. Pim Dresen, Founder of\u00a0Mercer Amsterdam<\/a>, a premium sneaker brand using pineapple and grape leathers, says: \u201cAs a brand we want to show the world that not everything has to be animal related. We want to show that there is good footwear without killing animals,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere is PU in the pineapple and grape skin (around 15%) to stabilise the material and to make it more durable,\u201d says Dresen.<\/p>\n

Some plant leathers are double the price of animal leather.<\/strong> \u201cIt is much more expensive, animal leather start at \u20ac15 per square metre, whereas this material is roughly around \u20ac30 per square metre,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

Dresen hasn\u2019t gone over completely to plant leather: \u201cWe only use cow hides from gold certified Leather Working Group tanneries \u2013 this means that we keep our tanneries up to the highest standards in environmental practices<\/strong> such as full traceability, chemicals used and disposed and so on.\u201d<\/p>\n

The German research institute, FILK, tested a number of plant-based alternatives, including Pinatex, Appleskin and Desserto, for their functional performance compared to a footwear upper leather. None could match leather in all the functions examined, although some could match it for some. The key failings were in abrasion resistance and vapour permeability.<\/strong> One of the arguments is that traditional animal skin products will last longer and therefore need to be replaced less often and therefore better for the environment.<\/p>\n

Kerry Senior, Director of Leather UK, the trade association for the UK leather industry, agrees: \u201cThere is no evidence to support the suggestion that plant-based materials are better for the environment<\/strong> than real leather.<\/p>\n

\u201cThese materials are usually pitched as being more sustainable as they use waste plant materials and don\u2019t carry the impact of cattle rearing. However, that doesn\u2019t mean that they are better for the environment, in the same way that \u2018vegan\u2019 doesn\u2019t mean more sustainable. The bulk of these materials are essentially plant matter glued together with plastics,<\/strong>\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

\u201cIn the case of apple leather, it is 50% PU, while Desserto, the cactus-based material, is 65% PU. This may be less plastic than a fully synthetic material, but it vastly more than will be applied in the finish to even the most heavily coated leathers,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

\u201cPinatex, the pineapple material, is a little different in that it use 20% polylactic acid (PLA), a bio-plastic,\u00a0as a binder. Using a bioplastic seems like a better choice but PLA will only biodegrade in very specific conditions,<\/strong>\u201d says Senior. \u201cThe chances of an item made from Pinatex ending up in such a facility is at best, extremely low.<\/p>\n

Another exception are the mycelium-based products, such a Mylo, but interestingly, these have to be tanned and finished like leather in order to become useful materials,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

\u201cReal leather is made from a by-product of the meat industry, hides and skins, that will be produced whether or not that by-product is subsequently made into leather. Leather manufacture has no direct influence on the number of animals reared or slaughtered;<\/strong> this has been demonstrated by a study by the University of Minnesota,\u201d says Senior.<\/p>\n

In 2019 and 2020, as much as 18% of the hides produced in the USA, with a mature leather industry, were simply thrown away. Globally, it is estimated that as many as 40% of the hides produced are disposed of.<\/p>\n

\u201cI think that the use of wastes to make new product has to be the way forward<\/strong> \u2013 it\u2019s what we\u2019ve doing with hides and skins for a very long time \u2013 but I find it very hard to see how making new plastics to give functionality to these plant-based materials can be better for the environment that using a raw material (hides and skins), that already exists,\u201d Senior says.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe (leather) industry has to do more to ensure that customers and consumers understand the provenance and benefits of leather. Consumers need to move to a slow fashion model, where items are kept for longer, repaired and reused<\/strong> and can be ultimately safely disposed of \u2013 leather is a perfect fit for that model.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe also need to address the multitude of misconceptions around the environmental impact of livestock, animal welfare, environmental impacts, chemicals etc. for the manufacture of leather. The industry has been slow to react to the wild claims made about leather by agenda groups,<\/strong> but we are getting much better at explaining why leather is a good choice for people and the planet. There are multiple resources available such as Leather Naturally, World Leather\u2019s \u2018Nothing to hide\u2019 series, the Real Leather, Stay Different campaign and the information available on the Leather UK website,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

Some plant leathers are just greener plastic in much the same way E10 is greener petrol. Arguably, there is an element of greenwashing in this new trend. If you want to go animal free then, clearly, it\u2019s the best option, but whether it\u2019s better for the planet than traditional animal leather is debatable<\/strong> with its current constituent parts. Animal leather is a by-product of another industry, and while people eat meat it will continue to exist.<\/p>\n

Plant leathers, like most environmentally friendly products, will need detailed labelling and have to be transparent about their ingredients to gain trust by consumers who choose to dig a little deeper. While percentages of bio material will get better as the technology advances, and the end goal will be a fully 100% compostable product, it also has to live up to the expectations and demands of a material labelled as \u201cleather\u201d.<\/p>\n

\"Newsletter<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The next time you are in the fruit and vegetable section of your local supermarket, hand-picking the source of your latest five-a-day, take a look at the potential origins of your next luxury handbag or accessory.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":38,"featured_media":165538,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[5,6],"tags":[18938,18932,18936,18930,18935,18931,18927,18937,18934,17656,13561,18560,18929,4039,18933,18926,12544,18928],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nIn-Depth: Five a day fashion \u2013 the rise of plant-based "leather" - TheIndustry.fashion<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The next time you are in the fruit and vegetable section of your local supermarket, hand-picking the source of your latest five-a-day, take a look at the potential origins of your next luxury handbag or accessory.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.theindustry.fashion\/in-depth-five-a-day-fashion-the-rise-of-plant-based-leather\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"In-Depth: Five a day fashion \u2013 the rise of plant-based "leather" - 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