{"id":161833,"date":"2019-07-10T15:57:59","date_gmt":"2019-07-10T15:57:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theindustry.fashion\/the-interview-tom-broughton-founder-cubitts\/"},"modified":"2021-08-12T14:02:09","modified_gmt":"2021-08-12T14:02:09","slug":"the-interview-tom-broughton-founder-cubitts","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theindustry.fashion\/the-interview-tom-broughton-founder-cubitts\/","title":{"rendered":"The Interview: Tom Broughton, founder, Cubitts"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Modern spectacle maker Cubitts announced the opening of its eighth store on Friday 5 July at 41 Monmouth Street in London\u2019s Seven Dials. The shop takes its inspiration both from the quarter\u2019s historic sundial centrepiece<\/strong> and from the building\u2019s previous incarnation as A. France & Son, undertakers to the likes of King George III. Cubitts\u2019 founder, Tom Broughton, talks through his brand\u2019s journey\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Any particular reason for choosing that location for your eighth store?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Seven Dials always has a good mix of independent brands, and quite a lot of direct to consumer brands. I\u2019ve always liked the local feel of Seven Dials too, as opposed to the south side of Covent Garden which is very tourist driven. There\u2019s little cobbled streets and places I like such as Monmouth Coffee. We have had eyes on that particular site at 41 Monmouth Street for a while. It\u2019s a very cool site and it feels very Cubitts. It\u2019s only 300 square foot on the ground floor and the same in the basement, and it\u2019s got a very interesting history to it as it used to be an undertakers. They are still our landlords and I met the great great grandson. He showed me photos of when they had all the funeral processions around the old Covent Garden Market. You can imagine how many flowers they would have had considering it was a flower market!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Cubitts' eighth store on Monmouth Street<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Have you drawn on that history for the new shop\u2019s design?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019ve designed the concept to reference the old use as an undertakers. We\u2019ve clad the whole of the inside in Spanish mahogany, which was traditionally used to make coffins out of. The whole theme is light and dark, and life and death. We\u2019ve built a little garden out the back with vibrant plants, and glass doors so you can see inside like a coffin. We\u2019ve also put a lot of gilded brass tack pins in the cabinets as well, which is a reference to the coffin A. France & Son made for Admiral Lord Nelson, which apparently had 10,000 gilded brass pins in it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Are each of your shops individually designed and representative of their locations?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yes, we always look at different things, such as the history of the building, so who else has lived or worked there, and what it has been before. It\u2019s also about what\u2019s behind the walls and ceiling when we strip it out, to see if we can reveal details that really help with the store design. Then we look at the history of the street, and if there\u2019s any interesting stories to tell, and we look at the area as a whole. We then aim to turn that in to a concept based on the colour of the fa\u00e7ade, the materials we use and the fixturing system. For this new store, because we are right next to the famous Seven Dials sundial, we\u2019ve incorporated the gnomon design, which is the part of a sundial that casts a shadow, into our fixturing system. So, all the glass shelves are held up by individual gnomons, and shadows will be cast when the light comes in. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The interior is clad in Spanish mahogany<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Do you also offer something unique in each of your stores?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

For each of the stores we also have a separate made-to-measure collection, so four frames which are unique to each particular location. We always try to reference the area, the people associated with it or the history of the building in those designs too. One of the frames for the new Seven Dials store is based on the sundial.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When was the last shop you opened before this one?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

It was eight months ago in Coal Drops Yard, King\u2019s Cross. We find it really good, though I think some brands and retailers are struggling there. But we always had a base in King\u2019s Cross anyway, so an active audience for Cubitts had already been established. We\u2019re different to other retail brands in that we also have the on-site eye-testing, so people come to us for the services as well as the product.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Did you start Cubitts in King\u2019s Cross?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We opened the first store in King\u2019s Cross in 2014, but I started it in 2013 out of my flat on Cubitt Street in King\u2019s Cross. Hence the brand name. I was doing some research in to why it was called Cubitt Street, and I found out that it was the old site of the Cubitt brother\u2019s building yard. The Cubitt name goes back for over 200 years in King\u2019s Cross. So, we took our name after the three brothers who were builders and engineers in the early 1800\u2019s. They did a lot of public building work around London. Lewis Cubitt designed King\u2019s Cross station, Thomas Cubitt did Belgravia and lots of Bloomsbury, and William Cubitt did the building that is now the Apple store in Covent Garden. Between the three of them, they designed a lot of interesting buildings, and I really liked their principles of taking an industry that\u2019s been around for centuries and making it relevant and modern, but without compromise. That\u2019s my design philosophy as well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Glass shelves are held up by individual gnomons<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

How much does fashion and style play in your frame designs?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s important but we don\u2019t describe ourselves as a fashion brand. A nice pair of spectacles, or even sunglasses, in a classic design should last for decades, so long as human beings have got two eyes, a nose and two ears! There\u2019s no reason why we have to go and do anything crazy, so we try to focus on classic and understated styles that can last for decades rather than the idea of constantly trying to create new stuff.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How is the business split between men\u2019s and women\u2019s?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s pretty much 50\/50. I think the last time I checked it was 52% men\u2019s and 48% women\u2019s, but then the majority of our frames are unisex. I think increasingly people\u2019s attitude to gender, and gender-specific products, is changing. The idea of unisex is much more appealing and amenable to most people\u2019s purchasing behaviour now.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What are your most popular styles?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

It kind of splits in to two groups really. There\u2019s the slightly round \u2018panto\u2019 eye lens, which is quite 1960\u2019s in style. They\u2019re quite fine, simple and lightweight. Style names include \u2018Herbrand\u2019, \u2018Keystone\u2019 and \u2018Flaxman\u2019, which all share the same kind of characteristics. Then, on the other side of things, we\u2019ve got the big frames, with styles such as \u2018Judd\u2019 and \u2018Matilda\u2019. They\u2019re big, bold, heavy and boxy frames. People are going for either a statement pair like that which hides their features more, or something lighter and more delicate that accentuates their features.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What\u2019s your design ethos?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Good service and quality product for a fair price. We focus on doing a small number of things really well. We have three levels, so the core collection all retail at \u00a3125, then we also offer made-to-measure at \u00a3425 and a full bespoke service for \u00a3725, where you sit down with a designer and create something from scratch. I\u2019m still the head of product, but these days there\u2019s a small team of three of us who design.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Did you see a gap in the market when you started out?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Six years ago, your options were to either go cheap and convenient, like Specsavers, or to go to a high-end independent boutique which traded on being high-end fashion and exclusive, which was all very glitzy with shiny gold and that kind of thing. It felt like there was nothing really in between, so I thought why can\u2019t you create a brand and make something that is a really good product but isn\u2019t crazily expensive or made to feel exclusive. Spectacles are one thing that everyone is going to need at some point in their life, whether you\u2019re rich or poor, tall or short, male or female, it doesn\u2019t make a difference. So, I wanted to create a brand and products that were quite egalitarian and accessible to all, which people were happy to wear.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Do you wholesale your products at all?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We do some but not much. We\u2019re in Liberty, Mr. Start in Shoreditch and on MR PORTER, along with a few others, but we say \u2018no\u2019 a lot more than we say \u2018yes\u2019 when it comes to wholesale accounts. We want the retailers to represent our product in the best way \u2013 not shoved in a drawer somewhere or behind a glass case, or just collecting dust! It\u2019s important that people put them on, try them and understand the differences. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Do you do any collaborations?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

This year we\u2019ve worked with womenswear and menswear designer, Phoebe English, making frames with off-cuts and recycled materials. We\u2019ve also worked with Sunspel and coming up we\u2019re about to do a collaboration with Liberty, featuring eight frames inspired by the art nouveau movement. We also work with a different artist every six months to release a new cleaning cloth. They create a new piece of art to go on the cloths, then we sell them to raise money for their chosen charity. We\u2019ve just done one with Camille Walala, who does a lot of big geometric bold prints, and the one before that was with Tracey Emin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Are there plans to open any more stores?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019re looking at opening another two stores in London this year, one probably in West London, the other in the City of London, and then possibly outside of London too \u2013 we\u2019re working on that. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

What else is new?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The other big thing we\u2019re investing a lot in is technology. We\u2019ve just finished our second version of a head scanner, which we\u2019re going to use for our bespoke consultations. It takes a three-dimensional scan of your face so you can overlay a frame on it and get a perfect fitting. We\u2019re trialling that now in the new Seven Dials store, and then we\u2019ll roll it out to our other stores throughout the summer.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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