{"id":159800,"date":"2018-02-26T10:06:00","date_gmt":"2018-02-26T10:06:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theindustry.fashion\/aw18-prada-profits-and-power-colour\/"},"modified":"2021-08-12T13:52:15","modified_gmt":"2021-08-12T13:52:15","slug":"aw18-prada-profits-and-power-colour","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theindustry.fashion\/aw18-prada-profits-and-power-colour\/","title":{"rendered":"AW18: Prada, profits and power colour"},"content":{"rendered":"

Given that Prada began its relentless rise and Gucci started its Tom Ford-driven comeback at roughly the same time, I\u2019ve always seen the two labels as the big rivals among influencer fashion brands.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Sometimes one seems to be coming out on top, but in general, they\u2019re both among the global leaders when it comes to high-end fashion<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

Which is why it\u2019s an ongoing shock to me that Prada has been doing so poorly lately<\/strong> and Gucci so well, so very, very well.<\/p>\n

Based on the AW18 collection shown this week in Milan, I\u2019d take Prada any day of the week<\/strong>. So why isn\u2019t the world beating a path to its door?<\/p>\n

Admittedly Gucci really knows how turn out a huge selection of product that offers something for every taste level in a way that maybe Prada doesn\u2019t do quite so expertly. And Gucci knows how to keep revamping its big winners,<\/strong> although Prada has caught onto that too lately with its feather-trimmed pieces having been a feature for the past couple of years.<\/p>\n

Maybe it\u2019s down to pricing. At Prada you have to pay nearly \u00a31,000 for a fairy basic black nylon shoulder bag<\/strong> while at Gucci you can get an Angry Cat tote for around \u00a3800. And the most expensive jacket at Gucci at the moment comes in at around \u00a34,000, while at Prada it\u2019s nearly \u00a38,000.<\/p>\n

Perhaps there aren\u2019t enough lottery winners, oligarchs, Middle Eastern princesses, and Chinese Millennials with \u00a38k to spare<\/strong>. And yeah, I know that Gucci prices aren\u2019t exactly in bargain basement territory either, but you\u2019d be surprised how many people would pay \u00a34,000 for a must-have piece but would shrink from double that price.<\/p>\n

Anyway, how does that relate to the show this week? Well, as mentioned, Prada wasn\u2019t been doing so well of late and it really needs its collection to be hits. It needs to recapture some of the magic it had<\/strong> not so many years ago and make consumers feel that a Prada bag\/shoes\/jacket\/belt\/dress is a must-have.<\/p>\n

Did it do that with this show? Well if I had a lottery win, I\u2019d splash the cash on it. Forget all the stuff about what was in Miuccia Prada\u2019s head and what it says about women, power, society, art and anything else. You can read about that elsewhere. Let\u2019s just talk about the clothes. They were an often sporty, frequently colourful, sometimes delicate celebration<\/strong> of what Prada does best.<\/p>\n

The materials were unashamedly synthetic<\/strong> (which disturbed some commentators thinking about sustainability, even though \u2018natural' doesn\u2019t necessarily mean better on that front). And the colour story screamed synthetic too. Think neons as a counterpoint to black nylons<\/strong> as multicolour print; as socks, gaiters, or a sheer top\/hem poking out from under tweeds; or as standalones on a dress covered in luminous green fringe.<\/p>\n

The collection veered from ultra utilitarian to light and delicate with plenty of occasion dressing - the sheers with appliqu\u00e9 flowers over simple underdresses were hugely covetable.<\/strong> The wool or soft-sheen bustiers that came with almost everything worked as well with skirts and dresses as with casual pants in a combo of slim-cut layers. And the wide-cut tunics, coats and gilets, felt suitably casual while also having that stand-out-in-a-crowd edge that always helps with clothes that cost more than an average monthly salary.<\/p>\n

Of course the big question is whether it will turn around Prada\u2019s fortunes in one go? That\u2019s unlikely, but it still went some way to proving just why Prada\u2019s influencer reputation is so great<\/strong>, even if its profits aren\u2019t quite as big these days.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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