The Interview: Paul Costelloe on bringing his 80s heritage brand back this LFW

If you've ever glanced at a London Fashion Week schedule, you would've seen Paul Costelloe's name on it. For over 40 years, the Irish-American designer has been showing his eclectic collections here on British soil. 

Costelloe, 79, is known for his elegant and classic tailoring, blending traditional and contemporary design. He often turns back the time, looking to fashion's past to inspire current collections, and this season is no different.

The man himself, Paul Costelloe, spoke to TheIndustry.fashion in the run-up to London Fashion Week. He told us about his coveted LFW schedule slot and the challenges that come with it as well as how he's channelling the horse girl aesthetic with his dressage-inspired Autumn/ Winter 2025 collection.

You’ve been showing at LFW since its inception, how has it changed over the years? Does this impact how you design and show your collections?

It was a much larger event. It's scaled down quite significantly since the BFC moved from Somerset House. It's still very much an important moment in the industry. That has never changed.

You’re known for having an iconic time slot, kicking off fashion weekend on Friday morning. When and how did you cement this time slot?

It's a poisoned chalice. But I'm always one for a challenge!

Paul Costelloe SS25

Can you tell us about your inspiration for this season’s collection?

I'm bringing my heritage brand "Paul Costelloe Dressage" to the catwalk this season. I launched it back in the late 80's as an almost "weekend" collection. It reflects my love of the equestrian sport.

What is the key piece or pieces that frame it?

There is an incredible voluminous coat in a Harris tweed that sums it all up. It is for everyone.

How does your upbringing and the world around you influence your creations? 

I'm Irish-American, so I've always felt my mother's conservative American side controls my styling. But I also find myself looking constantly at what's around me. I cycle from my home in Putney to my studio in central London every day, so I see what people wear and what works and doesn't, from my bike.

You always create brilliant, fantastical runways. Can you tell us about the staging of this season’s collection?

I can't give away too much, but my son William Costelloe who's also an artist and works on the textile side of the business has created a beautiful dressage-inspired backdrop... come and see it.

Who is the ‘Paul Costelloe’ woman?

She's international, she's aware, she has humour and she's humble.

Have you collaborated with any accessory designers this season?

For jewellery, yes. I've worked with P.K. Bijoux who has created some pretty incredible vintage pieces that she's brought back to life. They are works of art.

Paul Costelloe AW24

What does the future hold for Paul Costelloe?

I want to develop the brand further on the international stage. Watch this space.

When and where will shoppers be able to get their hands on the AW25 collection?

From September 2025 on paulcostelloe.com.