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The Interview: Leah Chapman, founder, Issue Twelve

Lauretta Roberts
21 December 2021

Leah Chapman comes from British fashion royalty, her parents Tom and Ruth are the founders of luxury retailer Matchesfashion.com and took it from an independent boutique to an international luxury fashion force. Having initially decided against a career in fashion, she studied graphic design in California, but soon came to recognise her fashion calling.

Chapman went on to establish her own label, Issue Twelve, which specialises in elevated basics made from sustainable materials at factories in London. The collection was launched in April this year and comprises a considered edit of knitwear, outwear, separates and denim. In the lead up to Christmas, the brand has been staging a pop-up shop in London's Marylebone district, which is open until 23 December on New Cavendish Street.

Chapman talks to TheIndustry.fashion about growing up around the fashion industry, why she decided to launch her label, how her first foray into retail has gone and what her future vision is for her brand.

You launched Issue Twelve in April 2021, how long was this brand in the making before that?

I started developing the idea of the brand in January 2020, before covid. The first lockdown hit us shortly after, which ended up lending itself to a great deal of research. There’s no question covid is a hindrance to any brand, but if this hadn’t happened I’m not sure if we would have found such incredible mills and factories to work with, or if we would have the ability to share the product journey with our customers, which is something I’m most proud of.

What was the vision you had for the brand at the start and what was the gap you saw in the market for your proposition?

When I’m looking to buy I always look at the care label to see the composition of materials. I found that a lot of products on the market at a contemporary price, and even high-end luxury, use man made materials. I wanted to create beautiful pieces that are easy to wear, feel amazing, and are kind to the environment, whilst trying to keep our prices at a contemporary price point.

You are making much of the collection in London and from sustainable materials, can you give us a bit of insight into that and why that was important for you?

I love working with our factories in London. The craftsmanship is incredible, and we get to go and see our pieces being made, whilst creating a great relationship with the people making the clothes. In terms of responsible material choices, there really wasn’t another option, especially when you know you are supplying products to people – you have more of a responsibility when at scale. At the moment we are only making small quantities of each Issue Twelve product, but hopefully in the future when the demand becomes greater we will be prepared. We also hope to be able to use more GOTS certified fibres as we grow, as a lot of mills require a large order for the organic option – which for now, with small quantities, ends up being counter-productive. We aren’t perfect, but it’s important to us as a brand to continue researching and sourcing materials that are kind to the planet and the people making the clothes.

You studied on the West Coast, which you say inspired your designs, can you explain how?

There is something very relaxed about California . When I lived in Venice I would wake up and throw something on and go outside, there was never much time or thought into styling an outfit. This ‘throw on’ attitude is considered when designing – lending itself to simple cuts and subtle colours.

Is there a story behind the name of the brand?

I studied Graphic Design and used to make magazines. I love print, as well as the idea of keeping a conceptual idea but drawing different pieces from it each month. We don’t adhere to the fashion calendar, and make trans-seasonal pieces dropped in throughout the twelve months. Issue Twelve is a play on that.

Since the brand was launched, what has the reaction been? Which pieces have proved to be the most popular, for instance?

Response has been good, slower than a pre pandemic launch but this is the world we live in now. When people do discover us, they have ended up becoming repeat customers. One thing which is clear since Covid is that many people are making more considered choices over their fashion purchases, looking at a brand's ethics and traceability. I feel we have launched the right brand at the right time.

The favourite shape is the Chia Trouser, people find them so flattering.

You launched online in April and are currently staging a pop-up, what are you hoping to achieve with the pop-up and how is it going?

The hope is for people to come into our world, to be able to feel and understand the brand. It’s hard building awareness and trust with customers online; some things just don’t translate.

We’ve recently dropped the softest knits made from cashmere and silk. The hope is for people to come in and feel the material, notice the craftsmanship and learn about our ethics and what we are trying to do with the brand.

You are a DTC business at the moment, do you have plans to move beyond that moving forward?

If we go wholesale our prices would get higher and it’s important for us to not sacrifice on material, which we would have to do to keep the price point as is. Potentially in the future when we are making larger quantities and factory prices are lower.

What about physical retail, now that you’ve had a taste of a store, do you think you might consider a permanent physical space in future?

I’ve been really enjoying interacting with the customers and talking through the products and would love to have a permanent physical space.

Issue Twelve

Issue Twelve Pop-up Marylebone

Do you have a specific consumer in mind and how do you go about marketing the brand?

Yes, I have a couple of real people that I think about – specifically a mother and daughter I know. I think there is something great about having both of those customers and making sure that there are pieces for both and that they are priced correctly.

You grew up in and around fashion and went to the US to study graphic design, were you always planning a career in the industry or did you come to that idea later on?

I’ve always shown a big interest in clothing, but never wanted to be in the industry having seen my parents in it. I wanted to feel I had my own path and felt it was too obvious. After falling in love with Saul Bass’ work when I was 18, I felt I wanted to make opening title sequences. This then led to my interest in graphic design and in turn me moving to California to study for four years. I’ve always deep down known it was fashion I’d end up in, and two years in was able to admit it to myself but decided to finish my course nevertheless.

What were the key learnings you took from being brought up around the fashion industry?

I’ve learnt how important attention to detail is throughout the whole process, not just in making a product. How hospitality is so necessary in retail. Finally, that you have to be really tenacious. I have such respect for people in the fashion industry and everyone that’s built a brand.

Looking forward what are your ambitions for Issue Twelve?

To keep building our customer base, to maintain our values, and to ultimately grow to an online destination for clothes you know you wear and feel great in.

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