The Interview: French Connection's Head of Design on the new vision powering its fashion comeback
French Connection has this week launched a new campaign that celebrates the raw, unpolished moments of life, showcasing its latest collection as the brand works to reestablish itself as a key player in high street fashion.
Guided by a fresh vision for the brand, Helen Gallagher, Head of Design at French Connection, is playing a pivotal role in helping to redefine its identity under her creative expertise.
In this exclusive interview, Gallagher speaks about her role, the brand's new vision, how she incorporates customer feedback into the design process, and what excites her most about the future of French Connection.
French Connection was founded by Stephen Marks in 1972 with the aim to create design-led, fashionable clothing. It gained significant attention in the 1990s when its bold, cheeky marketing campaigns and iconic FCUK slogan caught the public’s eye.
Throughout the 1990s and early 2000s, the fashion brand expanded rapidly, opening stores in key cities and diversifying its product range to include accessories, footwear, and homeware. It quickly became synonymous with high street fashion and also experienced global growth with its wholesale business.
However, the business soon encountered financial difficulties, which were further exacerbated by the pandemic. In 2020, after a lengthy search, French Connection was unable to secure a buyer and reported an underlying loss of £2.9 million for the year ending 31 January 2020. In response, the brand shifted its focus to a turnaround strategy to ensure it was operating as efficiently and cost-effectively as possible.
As part of its ongoing efforts to turnaround the business, French Connection welcomed Helen Gallagher as Head of Design in August 2023. Bringing experience from fellow fashion brand Mint Velvet, where she served in the same role from 2018-2023, Gallagher was tasked with driving the brand's creative direction.
"French Connection has always been celebrated for its design-led pieces that offer exceptional quality at an accessible price point. We have taken that commitment even further by creating collections that feel truly unique on the high street, standing apart from the mainstream," Gallagher tells TheIndustry.fashion.
As Head of Design, Gallagher is responsible for leading the creation of four collections each year, presenting them on the catwalk to engage buyers and company directors. She also works alongside her team to meet target margins, collaborating with suppliers on pricing, and ensuring each piece is perfectly tailored.
"The most rewarding part of my role has been watching my team grow and evolve. Their dedication to pushing boundaries and continuously improving has been inspiring. I believe I'm only as strong as my team, and they’re truly exceptional," she reflects.
Now ushering in a bold new era, Gallagher is helping French Connection to redefine its identity with a fresh vision, attempting to reconnect with its loyal customers while attracting new ones, weaving a narrative that taps into both nostalgia and innovation.
"French Connection has always had boldness and irreverence built into its DNA, and we’re bringing that spirit back to the forefront. Our goal is to stay true to the brand’s roots while taking risks and exploring fresh ideas, ensuring that the brand feels both timeless and relevant in today’s world," explains Gallagher.
"By breathing new life into the brand, we’re creating a sense of excitement and engaging with the right audience. We believe in the power of uniqueness and embrace the idea of standing out, not shying away from being different. Our vision is clear: to deliver something that feels both fresh and forward-thinking, while staying grounded in what makes French Connection special."
This vision is reflected in the fashion brand's latest collection. Boasting striking designs, unexpected silhouettes, and vibrant colour palettes that push boundaries while remaining wearable and practical, Gallagher has focused on creating pieces that stand out but can also be seamlessly integrated into everyday wardrobes, offering versatility and confidence to the wearer.
"The new collection is a direct reflection of the bold, irreverent spirit that defines French Connection. We have infused it with a sense of modernity while staying grounded in the brand’s roots. It is a collection that dares to be different - unafraid of taking risks, experimenting with new materials, and revisiting iconic styles with a fresh twist," highlights Gallagher.
The collection has been brought to life by a new campaign, which celebrates the "raw, unpolished moments of life". It aims to offer a refreshing departure from the traditional bounds of what luxury means, which often focuses on opulence and excess, instead championing relatability, simplicity, and authenticity.
In line with this, the campaign features real-life moments - think taking off your heels and roaming the city barefoot after a night out, that feeling of getting the drinks in, or getting lost without GPS and stumbling across an idyllic old town.
"Our campaigns have been bringing back the irreverent spirit the brand is so well known for. We have always had something to say, and you can feel it in the most recent campaigns," says Gallagher.
At the heart of French Connection's vision is the customer, with inspiration drawn from its global community. "Our customers are a diverse group with discerning taste, connected by their love of design-led, lasting fashion. They have a strong sense of personal style and know what suits them. They aren’t afraid to express their personality through their clothing and they walk the fine line between contemporary and ageless perfectly," notes Gallagher.
"I work closely with our buying and merchandising teams to gain a deep understanding of our customers' purchasing behaviours. As a wholesale business, we typically design most of the season before we have sales data from the previous one. This means we’re constantly reviewing and refining our collections, adapting where necessary, and never fully considering anything 'final'.
"It’s an ongoing evolution right up until we present the collection. There’s a balance in remaining confident that introducing fresh, new designs is key, while staying true to our identity. Our role is to showcase what our customer hasn’t discovered yet, leading them towards something they didn’t even know they needed."
To achieve this, Gallagher emphasises the importanace of meeting and hearing from the brand's customers whenever possible, working with its marketing teams to build a two-way relationship with consumers - be it through surveys or meeting them at events.
Speaking more about the design process and inspiration, Gallagher said: "We begin by focusing on newness, constantly striving to create something different to past collections. Vintage references play a key role in our initial inspiration, ensuring we develop truly unique pieces from the outset. If something excites me, it gives me confidence that it's fresh and innovative."
Gallagher adds that fabric and material choices are also fundamental, using innovative textiles that align with the collection’s vision while prioritising functionality and wearability.
"I encourage designers to be disruptors, having the time each day to explore new ideas and push boundaries. We are constantly discussing end-use and versatility. Designing with the modern, multitasking customer in mind, we focus on creating pieces that are not only exciting but also practical, allowing for multiple styling options. This ensures the collection is not only fresh and innovative but also functional and long-lasting for the customer. We aren’t fast fashion and intend our pieces to be in our customers’ wardrobes for more than a season," she adds.
Another key element of the design process is staying attuned to trends. While not the sole focus of French Connection, Gallagher believes it's important to be aware of broader trends and the lifestyle of its customers. "I have noticed and discussed for some time now the decline in women wearing dresses, particularly in the office and at social events. While dresses will always have a place, especially in a brand like French Connection, separates and matching co-ords are increasingly becoming the go-to for everyday wear as well as event dressing," she notes.
"I want to reflect this shift in our collections. The appeal of buying a versatile set, something that can be styled in multiple ways, seems to resonate more with today’s consumer than a single dress. When we do design dresses at French Connection, we make sure they stand out, offering something special and distinctive that makes them more compelling and worthy of investment."
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With its latest collection launching this week, Gallagher emphasises that French Connection is at an exciting stage, opening new stores, exploring new marketing channels and developing a strong brand proposition.
"As Head of Design, my ambition is to keep evolving French Connection into a brand that stands out for its originality, quality, and bold spirit. I want to lead a team that continuously pushes creative limits while ensuring we deliver collections that resonate with our customers on a deeper level. My goal is to help shape the brand's future by embracing innovation and authenticity, all while maintaining the timelessness and relevance that has always been at the heart of French Connection," Gallagher finishes.
