Susie Cave returns to fashion with new 'by appointment-only' venture

Susie Cave had made a return to the fashion industry following the closure of her much-loved label, The Vampire's Wife, two years ago. 

The designer and former model has unveiled a new venture under her own name offering a selection of 25 silhouettes for weddings and funerals. Each silhouette will be custom-tailored to individual clients and can also be personalised.

Cave will be running the label from a 'by appointment-only' store on Kensington Church Walk in West London, which is due to open in mid-late May. Appointments can be booked online.

A Susie Cave bridal silhouette

A preview of the silhouettes released today reveals some of the hallmarks of The Vampire's Wife signature Gothic-inspired glamour. However there are unique touches that set it apart from her previous label and, for now at least, each design will only be available in black or white.

Cave explained: “I needed to return to the very basics, to start anew, to shake off the relentless, voracious appetite of the industry and to create beautiful dresses I was personally committed to, beyond the demands of the market.” 

An elaborate funeral silhouette

As is to be expected of Cave, the designs are not traditional wedding or funeral attire, but rather they "explore the performative, sacred, and hallowed realm of costume". Designs in the line-up range from monotone mini-dresses to more elaborate full-length creations.

The Vampire's Wife – best known for its signature Falconetti dress featuring a high neck, puff sleeves, nipped in waist and ruffled hem – was forced to close in 2024 due to the repercussions of the pandemic and the subsequent upheaval in the wholesale market. The brand had been hugely popular, finding fans among A-listers, including the Princess of Wales who wore it on several occasions. It was stocked in a number of high-end retailers, such as Matches, the demise of which was understood to have hit The Vampire's Wife hard.

A dramatic full length wedding look 

The many fans of The Vampire's Wife – who for now need to trawl re-sale sites to find their favourite designs – will doubtless be hoping that Cave slowly expands her offer to include more colours and styles. However, it seems pretty certain that in the meantime, some of these designs will make their way to red carpets and high-society occasions, as well as weddings and funerals.