Show Report: Outlook remains changeable at Pitti Uomo
Bright sunshine and high temperatures were forecast for Florence on Tuesday. Instead visitors to the 108th edition of Pitti Uomo had grey skies and rain to contend with on the opening day.
The climatic turnabout was an appropriate metaphor for the changing circumstances around American tariffs, one of the main topics of ongoing conversations among British exhibitors at the classic sector’s leading menswear show. As the threat of tariffs is paused until July, uncertainty is in the air.
President Trump’s erratic pronouncements on import fees has only added to the challenges caused by lacklustre economic conditions at home and in almost all export markets, plus the domestic hike in employers’ National Insurance contributions, which took effect in April.
Despite everything, however, there was plenty of evidence that the Florentine event would again be worthwhile, pulling in buyers from all over the world.
On its fifth visit to Pitti is Charles Tyrwhitt, which has developed from a business shirt specialist to a fully-rounded supplier of quality menswear. It shows in Florence to spread the word about its aspirations to find more franchise partners and department store stockists globally.
"Since COVID our B2B channel has been growing fast and we are now well-established with franchise partners in Asia and Africa, and we are about to open in Dubai and South Africa," said Sean Hullah, International Third Party Commercial Manager. "For example, we have 13 shops in Manila in The Philippines, six in India and 11 across Nigeria and Ghana. We have a distributor in Mexico and a partner in Chile. Pitti is an excellent venue for us to meet with our franchisees and our wholesale buyers from the USA, South America, European department stores and Czech Republic. It’s also ideal for brand awareness."
Also expecting the usual complement of international and domestic visitors – and perhaps better than expected orders – is Bill Leach, Global Sales Director at John Smedley. "Since the third week of May we have seen all our key UK accounts in our showroom and we’ve been very pleased with the positive response," he said. "It could be that buyers are backing more iconic and classic pieces – the sort that consumers look for on Vinted – so that plays into our strengthsas knitwear specialists. We have 90 to 100 appointments booked over the four days of the show and we are expecting to see buyers from China, Hong Kong, Japan, the US, Europe and the Middle East, as well as 15 to 20 good independents from the UK and Ireland. For us, Pitti Uomo is worth doing just for our Italian business."
Outerwear specialist Mackintosh returned to Pitti in January after a long absence. It is present again this week partly to boost brand awareness and partly to show its new ideas for spring-summer 2026. "We had a really great reaction to our return last season and we wanted to maintain that momentum," said Head of Sales Andy Laing. "Although we will see a lot of our buyers during Paris Fashion Week later this month, we are expecting visits here from Le Bon Marché, Printemps Doha (Qatar), US clients and a contact in Turkey. We have developed new styles of spring-summer using recycled nylon and a 3-ply ripstop fabric. Our womenswear got a good reaction here in January, so we are showing it again."
British and Irish buyers attending Pitti would bring with them mixed reports of trading, according to Ryan Squibb, Country Manager for Eton Shirts of Sweden, which like Charles Tyrwhitt is steadily expanding its offer towards a full men’s wardrobe.
"I wouldn’t be surprised if buyer numbers from the UK and Ireland are down because some people are finding it tough," he reported. "A common story is that footfall is less but they are selling more to the men who do come in. Those who have elevated their business and invested in the shop to create a better experience are doing best. Retailers have to give the customer a reason not just to sit at home and click an order with Mr Porter.
"As usual, the search is for something new and exciting, but they are more likely to buy into new lines from a trusted brand like Eton rather than trying an unknown brand in the current climate."
As ever at Pitti, the effectiveness of the show will not be properly measured until at least the end of Thursday, the third day. The threat of transport strikes in Italy on Friday across trains, buses and possibly internal flights may see buyers departing for Milan fashion week or for home earlier than planned.
The 108th edition of the Pitti Uomo, running from Tuesday 17 June to Friday 20 June, comprises 740 brands, 45% of which are from outside Italy. This season the UKFT group numbers 38, with around half showing footwear and accessories.
Homme Plissé Issey Miyake is this season’s guest of honour, while South Korean brand PAF (Post Archive Faction) and Italian newcomer Niccolo Pasqualetti (a finalist for the 2024 LVMH Prize) are guest designers.
