Show Report: It's business as usual at Pitti Uomo
The spectacular collapse of the holding company of Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman’s was an inevitable talking point at the 109th edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo this week. It was a reminder, if one was needed, that the fashion business is continuing to have to react to all manner of unexpected events in the post-COVID world.
Yet despite armed conflicts, political instability, tariff mayhem and widespread global economic malaise, it was business as usual at the four-day event in Florence, which remains the most important meeting place for the premium menswear sector.
While wild optimism about the coming year is non-existent, there was plenty of positive attitude among exhibitors and visitors. Among the 43 British companies brought to the show under the UKFT banner there was widespread satisfaction at a good turnout of buyers on Tuesday and Wednesday, the first half of the schedule.
Encouraging attendance by Japanese and South Korean buyers, decent numbers of Americans and a solid turnout from all major European markets, including the important-to-many Italian contingent, generally raised spirits across the Fortezza da Basso complex. An increased number of relevant retailers from Turkey was also noted.
“The Italians didn’t have a bad time in 2025 and they are actually paying their bills on time, which makes a nice change,” quipped one Pitti veteran from a classic British brand.
There are no signs of major fashion shifts for autumn-winter 2026, but some buyers noted more momentum towards a dressier approach as a reaction against the increasingly dull monotony of athleisure and sportswear-as-daywear. Their attitude, some might say, could be construed as wishful thinking.
Tweeds by Walker Slater suited the country tailoring trend well
More colour and more interesting surface textures on outerwear also caught the eye of some British buyers, but several observed that the worthwhile autumn-winter retail season is getting shorter due to the nonsense of Black November and pre-Christmas discounting, as climate change reduces the need for consumers to invest in heavy outerwear.
As the first trade show of each season, Pitti Uomo has a reputation as a looking show, although several exhibitors reported that some buyers were more eager than usual to scratch the order pad, as the old saying goes.
That said, Pitti’s strength remains its unique role as an inspiring meeting place for the better-end of the menswear sector. “We have a very simple strategy: we want to help people in their business,” said Pitti Immagine president Raffaello Napoloeone. “We are a non-profit organisation but we aim to add value by our activities.”
Scottish accessories manufacturer Robert Mackie, founded in 1845, took 181 years to make its first appearance at Pitti Uomo
Post-COVID, more British buyers are appreciating the merits of spending a few days in Florence, not only for a trends overview, but also to make worthwhile contacts with potential suppliers. Among 12 members of the IMC buying group attending this season was Matt Nuttall of Potters of Buxton, a menswear and womenswear independent that was opened 166 years ago.
“I first came to Pitti just before COVID and this is my seventh visit,” he said. “I regard it as a re-set for the season that sets me up for my buying. It’s also good to be able to meet with brands from all over Europe that I might want to work with. We got to work with Armor-Lux through meeting them at Pitti. I have two packed days and struggle to fit it all in.”
Matt Sweeting of Claytons of Bedford, which has been trading for 120 years, was similarly enthusiastic: “This is my fourth time coming with the IMC group. Pitti certainly presents a wow factor. I used to think it was not relevant to our business, but it’s worth coming for the inspiration alone. Also, I do find brands we can stock. I found the Italian shirt brand Poggianti here and it’s worked well for us. It’s also good to get a complete overview from other suppliers like Meyer, Bruhl and Olymp. You don’t always see everything in a showroom.”
Ireland's Louis Copeland tries to get the measure of Matt Sweeting and Matt Nuttall, who travelled with the IMC buying group
UK agent Simon Harris is working for Pitti to encourage more British retailers to make a first trip to the show or to return after an absence. The event covers travel costs. “The autumn-winter show is probably the better one for someone making a first time visit,” he remarked, “It gives a unique overview of the season even though it’s clear some retailers do more buying at the Paris events that follow Florence .”
Among the major retailers represented at this week’s show were Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Liberty, John Lewis, Mr Porter, House of Fraser, End and Slater Menswear, plus independents like Trunk, Richmond Classics, Stuarts, Pockets, Richard Gelding and Wear London. The IMC group included Coes, County Clothes, Andrew Gardner, Hansfords and Frederick Mabb. Louis Copeland was among the Irish contingent.
Most principals had no hesitation in confirming 2025 had been a challenging year thanks to a combination of economic stagnation, poor consumer confidence and steep rises in running costs due to changes to business rates, wages and National Insurance contributions. Buying for autumn 2026 was going to be well considered as a consequence.
The effectiveness of Pitti Uomo as a platform for British brands to reach a global audience effectively was supported by the appearance of first-time exhibitors premium trainer brand Mallet and Scottish knitwear accessories specialist Robert Mackie, which was founded in 1845.
Ben Leaver manned the stand for Mallet's first time at Pitti Uomo
Ben Leaver, commercial director at Mallet, explained: “As we now back under the ownership of co-founder Evren Ozkarakasli, we felt we needed greater visibility. We haven’t cracked Asia, for example. People need to see the product to appreciate its quality and Pitti delivers such a breadth of great stores and the right people from around the world.”
Mallet will soon launch a men’s activewear line to complement the footwear.
A large stand from Lyle & Scott's Italian distributor
Also showing a new breadth to the collection were British brands Frescobol Carioca and Orlebar Brown, which both have expanded from beach and swim-focused ranges to more complete lifestyle offers. The Brazilian-inspired Frescobol Carioca was showing at its first autumn-winter Pitti, while its rival Orlebar Brown had returned after a few seasons away.
Both were happy with the footfall and response they had achieved.
Making a return to Pitti was Lyle &Scott, whose new Italian distributor took a large space near the entrance to the show. Also reporting good results in Italy was Derby-based casualwear brand Weekend Offender, which has now become a Pitti regular via its Italian partner.
German brand Prohibited is seeking new UK stockists via Ben Lima, seen here with colleague Annika Helmers
Among those actively looking to sell into the UK and Ireland was German casualwear brand Prohibited, where Ben Lima is in charge of international sales.
