Secret Shopper: Abercrombie & Fitch, but not as you know it

Abercrombie & Fitch opened two new central London stores last week as part of its UK expansion: Oxford Street and Covent Garden. TheIndustry.fashion decided to visit the latter as part of its Secret Shopper series to assess whether the all-American favourite has truly been able to re-establish its bricks-and-mortar presence since its heyday in the early 2010s.

Founded in 1892 as a sporting goods store, Abercrombie & Fitch has more heritage than one might think. David Abercrombie, a surveyor, established the company in a small waterfront shop in New York, and lawyer and real estate developer Ezra Fitch became a partner in 1900. In its earliest days, the brand was known for its shotguns, fishing rods, fishing boats, and tents. A far cry from what it was to become from the 1990s onwards.

Anyone who remembers the original format of an Abercrombie & Fitch store from the days would certainly have several preconceptions about what their latest bricks-and-mortar presence might entail.

First, an almost complete lack of lighting which allows you the singular experience of purchasing an item of clothing without actually knowing what it looks like. Second, a syrupy aftershave aroma that smells exactly like you're in an Abercrombie store but also smells like all other aftershaves. And finally, an army of rippling, partially-nude sales assistants, some of whom may or may not have been hired for the sole purpose of dancing on the spot to the lyricless beat blaring overhead. Finally, lots of wooden decor and probably an enormous taxidermy moose head.

TheIndustry.fashion took a lunchtime visit to the store to discover how many of these habits the brand has managed to kick since it began its rebrand in 2015, moving away from big logos and a sullied name which had become synonymous with exclusive sizing and advertising, with many arguing it promoted an unrealistic body image.

Location

On the Monopoly board of shopping destinations, a stone's throw from Covent Garden tube station is surely up there. Positioned on the corner of Long Acre and Slingsby Place, no shopper is missing this three-storey store in a hurry. And don't worry, the days of queueing outside Abercombie are certainly over.

Windows and entrance

The brown tiled exterior combined with multi-storey curved windows leave the exterior looking somewhere between Vermont ski chalet and English country pub. The overall effect is pleasing, and the double-door corner entrance allows easy access for shoppers from both sides. The store security guard will both greet you upon entrance and thank you as you leave.

Whilst windows on one side of the store have purposeful mannequin displays, the other simply offers passers by an opportunity to see inside the spacious new store.

Store fit and product range

Thankfully, the brand has left behind all the attributes which made being in their stores unbearable past the age of pubescence. The comprehensively laid out space is quiet, neutral smelling and bright, with clearly separated sections and signposting where necessary. Plus, the chosen layout means that there is tonnes of space between rails and you won't find yourself fighting for browsing space during January sales.

The product offering is wide ranging, with sections for evening wear, denim and YPB, Abercrombie's activewear range. Sizes range from UK4-26 in womenswear and XS-3XL in menswear. The denim selection was particularly impressive, with half of the basement floor dedicated to jeans alone.

The floors are tiled or wooden chevron, with non-offensive framed artwork lining the walls. The one aspect of the old Abercrombie that has remained is the heavy use of wood in its interior, which has been leveraged tastefully in this new format.

There are two women's floors (basement and ground), with menswear on the first floor. The store boasts both a lift and a wide set of stairs between its three floors. The main checkout desk is on the ground floor, with another on basement level where customers can pick up online orders or make returns and exchanges. Also on this level is an under-stairs seating area comprising of two leather armchairs so that any weary husbands, boyfriends, brothers or sons can stare at their phones in peace.

Fitting rooms and service

There are fitting rooms on each floor, each with six rooms. And if you can imagine, each has a door with hinges that actually closes, so no expense spared.

Unlike in days of yore, the staff were fully clothed and did not outnumber the customers. All were smiling and eager to help where possible.

In conclusion

The overall feel of the store was bright, airy and calming. With space enough to give the impressive product range the attention it deserves. Whilst dragging a parent round a pitch-dark store trying to get them to buy things was certainly a fun pastime, to everything there is a season—unless you are a pair of Abercrombie jeans.