Scoop could expand Italian brands for AW27 show following fruitful debut ITA partnership

This week’s edition of Scoop, held at Olympia National in London from 19-21 July, included the show’s debut partnership with the Italian Trade Agency (ITA).

The collaboration saw an exclusive collective of 32 contemporary Italian designers make their debut at Scoop, spanning womenswear, knitwear, accessories and lifestyle collections.

With the majority of the brands not yet having any existing UK distribution, it gave a rare opportunity for buyers to discover a new wave of ‘Made in Italy’ creativity and, deemed to be a success, it could see other Italian brands being added to Scoop’s roster for the next show for AW27, taking place at the same venue from 7-9 February 2027.

Giving their insights into the collaboration, ITA Director Giovanni Sacchi, and Scoop’s founder and Managing Director Karen Radley, took time out for an exclusive Q&A with TheIndustry.fashion.

How did the partnership between the Italian Trade Agency and Scoop come about?

Giovanni Saachi (GS): The partnership between the Italian Trade Agency and Scoop was born from a shared ambition to strengthen the presence of Italian fashion brands in the UK market. Our London office has closely followed Scoop’s growth over the years, recognising its strong reputation and its perfect alignment with the profile of many Italian contemporary brands.

Combined with the increasing interest from Italian companies in the UK and Italy’s strategic focus on boosting exports, this created the ideal opportunity to re-establish an official Italian presence at the show after several years. The strong response from Italian brands confirmed that this was the right moment to build a strategic collaboration.

Karen Radley (KR): For me, the partnership came from a shared belief in what Scoop represents. I've always been incredibly selective about the designers we bring to the show because our buyers trust us to introduce them to collections they may not discover elsewhere.
When I began working with the Italian Trade Agency, it quickly became clear that we shared the same philosophy. Together, we spent months personally selecting every designer to ensure they reflected the quality, creativity and contemporary positioning that Scoop is known for. Rather than simply creating an Italian pavilion, we wanted to present the designers and their collections within their brand adjacencies.

Why is it such a beneficial partnership for Italian brands looking to enter the UK market?

GS: This partnership is particularly beneficial for Italian brands because, as a public institution, ITA provides significant support to reduce the barriers that companies often face when approaching a new market. ITA covers a large part of the costs related to the participation of Italian companies within the collective presence at the event and, most importantly, promotes their involvement through targeted activities designed not only to create awareness around their participation but also to attract the right buyers and industry professionals.

Our presence and support have undoubtedly encouraged many companies that, on their own, may not have been able to sustain the costs of exhibiting in London, to recognise that this was the right moment to explore the UK market. Among the 32 participating companies, many are joining Scoop for the first time, while others are returning after several years, and some have confirmed their participation as part of a structured programme carefully developed and managed by the ITA London office.

KR: For our buyers, the partnership creates something genuinely special. Instead of having to search across multiple events or showrooms, they can discover an exceptional edit of contemporary Italian designers, all carefully selected to complement the wider Scoop curation. Every collection has been chosen because it offers something distinctive while remaining commercially relevant for premium retailers. It gives buyers confidence that the time they spend at Scoop will be rewarded with new discoveries and meaningful business opportunities.

Have the problems originally created by Brexit now been ironed out to make it easier for Italian brands to export to the UK?

GS: Brexit was certainly a significant turning point that, together with other external factors, has influenced the UK economy in recent years. Five years ago, following the Italian Government’s guidance, our London office established a dedicated Brexit Desk to support Italian companies in understanding the new regulations and adapting to the changes introduced.

After an initial period of adjustment, the situation has now largely stabilised. Most Italian companies are already strongly export oriented, and many have experience trading outside the EU, meaning they are familiar with the procedures and costs involved in international business. While Brexit introduced new challenges, companies have progressively adapted their processes and today exporting to the UK has become more structured and predictable.

The importance of the UK market remains clear: in 2025, the UK continues to be the 7th largest destination market for Italian clothing exports, after France, the USA, Germany, China, Spain and Switzerland, and before Japan. It also ranks among the top markets for Italian footwear and leather goods, confirming its strategic relevance for Italian brands.

Image by FEEL O

How many brands have you brought to the show from Italy and how well have they be received?

GS: We have brought a total of 32 Italian brands to Scoop this season through the Italian Trade Agency’s national collective. In addition to these, several other Italian brands are exhibiting independently. The vast majority of the Italian presence at the show is therefore supported by ITA. It is still too early to measure the commercial results, and we will assess the companies' feedback once the event has concluded. However, bringing such a strong national delegation has certainly generated interest and attracted considerable attention within the industry. Combined with Scoop's growing reputation, this enthusiasm gives us every reason to be optimistic about the success of this edition and the potential for future collaborations.

KR: Welcoming 32 designers through our partnership with the Italian Trade Agency is a real milestone for Scoop and reflects the growing international confidence in the show. It's also important to remember that these designers sit alongside many other established Italian collections and agents exhibiting independently, making this one of the strongest Italian representations we've ever hosted. The response from buyers throughout the show has been incredibly encouraging, with the Italian designers attracting strong interest from both long-standing retailers and those looking to discover something new.

Do they all offer Made in Italy products? How important is that if so?

GS: Absolutely. As the Italian Trade Agency, our mission is to promote genuine Made in Italy products around the world, and this is much more than a marketing slogan. The companies we support must meet strict eligibility requirements, including having their production in Italy. This ensures not only the authenticity of the products but also guarantees that the businesses we promote truly represent Italian manufacturing and craftsmanship.

The UK remains one of the world's most influential fashion markets and a key destination for Italian exports. British consumers place great value on quality, craftsmanship, authenticity and creativity - qualities that are synonymous with Made in Italy. The premium consumer is also increasingly focused on sustainability and transparency, with more than 60% of UK consumers willing to pay more for products with transparent supply chains. That’s an area in which many Italian companies have invested significantly.

Which brands have had the biggest and best reaction from UK buyers?

GS: It is still too early to make a proper assessment of which brands have received the strongest reaction from UK buyers. Furthermore, as a public institution, we believe it is important to give equal visibility and support to all the companies within our collective, so highlighting one brand over another would not be appropriate.

What point of difference can Italian brands offer UK retailers?

GS: What we can say is that some of the participating brands already have an established presence in the UK and are currently selling through selected retailers or online platforms. However, the majority of the companies are approaching the British market for the first time and see Scoop as an important opportunity to introduce their collections, meet potential partners and identify the right commercial opportunities. Some brands already have strong international recognition, while many others are small and medium-sized designer companies that are highly appreciated within their regions or specialist sectors. That’s a distinctive feature of the Italian fashion industry, where craftsmanship, creativity and niche expertise play a central role.

Will this partnership continue, and even grow, for the next Scoop show?

GS: Once we have collected and analysed the feedback from the participating companies, we will have a clearer understanding of where to focus our efforts and how to further develop the initiative. In coordination with our headquarters, we will evaluate the best possible approach for future editions. Our ambition is always to improve and build on previous experiences. If all the right conditions continue to align, we are confident that we will be able to replicate and potentially further strengthen our presence at future editions of Scoop.

KR: From Scoop's perspective, this has been an incredibly exciting collaboration. The response from both buyers and designers has reinforced what we hoped to achieve, creating an inspiring destination for contemporary Italian fashion within the wider Scoop edit. We see this as the beginning of a long-term relationship and would love to continue building on it in future seasons, bringing even more exceptional Italian designers to the UK market while maintaining the careful curation that defines Scoop.