Schiaparelli goes ‘back to the future’ with meteoric collection in Paris
Schiaparelli served cosmic glamour and celestial drama at its autumn/winter 2025-26 haute couture show.
Schiaparelli is a couture label that flourished in the 1920s and Thirties, but lately has gained more traction in mainstream fashion thanks to its well-known runway models and its key pieces being worn by celebrities.
Most recently, Lauren Sanchez Bezos wore a golden corseted Schiaparelli gown from the label’s spring 2025 collection during her highly publicised Venetian wedding to Amazon founder, Jeff Bezos.
The theme of this season’s haute couture show was ‘Back to the future’.
Creative Director Daniel Roseberry managed to combine iconic designs from the fashion house’s heyday, whilst incorporating the sculptural silhouettes Schiaparelli is known for today.
Schiaparelli went ‘back to the future’ with a galactic-inspired collection (ID Schiaparelli/PA)
Roseberry drew upon the house’s past by resurrecting vintage pieces for the catwalk, such as a black and gold palm tree dinner jacket from Schiaparelli’s 1936 winter haute couture collection.
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For the evening ensembles, Roseberry recreated a velvet jacket from the label’s 1937 haute couture collection, adding exaggerated lapels and mesh panelling, bringing the piece firmly into the 21st century.
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The collection featured pops of vibrant retro red and splintering diamante shards embellished onto otherwise understated garments – like stars splitting into life.
Daniel Roseberry incorporated pops of red into the otherwise monochromatic metallic collection (ID Schiaparelli/PA)
Emblematic of reinvention, something that Schiaparelli is famed for being so good at, Roseberry exemplified this ability with silver lozenge embroidery arranged to look like gleaming constellations.
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Roseberry managed to turn the human form into a canvas for starlight, marrying sci-fi fantasy with golden-age couture.
He was the first American to lead an established French couture house, and as he starts finishing his sixth year at the label, he doesn’t show any signs of slowing down.
Daniel Roseberry (right) was one of the youngest designers to take on a French fashion house (Alamy/PA)
With metallic bodices, liquid lamé gowns and sculptural capes, the collection pushed the brand’s surrealist legacy into a boldly imaginative future.
As the final looks – mirrored bodices and gilded gowns – flooded the runway, it’s clear: Schiaparelli’s future is as dazzling as its past.
