Sarah Burton: A British designer success story
Sarah Burton was to Alexander McQueen what a Bee is to pollen… one didn’t go without the other. That was until Burton made an exit from the brand and announced her return to creative directorship under the French luxury house Givenchy. In the wake of this week’s announcement, TheIndustry.fashion takes a retrospective look at British Burton’s career milestones and the memorable designs she made along the way.
Burton first joined Alexander McQueen as an intern in 1996 during her studies at Central Saint Martins. In 1997, upon graduating, she was hired full time and by 2000, she had risen the ranks and was appointed Head of Womenswear. Burton was officially known as Lee McQueen's right-hand man.
Sarah Burton
Following Lee McQueen's death in February 2010, and after company owner Gucci confirmed that the brand would continue producing, Burton was named as its Creative Director in May 2010. Her first collection shown in Paris received critical acclaim.
It wasn’t until 29 April 2011 that Burton became a household name after it was revealed that she had designed the wedding dress of Catherine Middleton and maid of honour Pippa Middleton’s dress for the Royal wedding.
The now Princess of Wales marries Prince William wearing Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen.
In the same year, she was announced the Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards after debuting her first collection as the Creative Director of Alexander McQueen, titled "Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty" - paying homage to the late Founder.
Feather-encrusted gowns hit the runway, which was later revisited on the red carpet at the Met Gala in 2011 when worn by Daphne Guinness and in 2012 when worn by Cate Blanchett.
Cate Blanchett wore one of Burton’s designs to the MET Gala in 2012.
By the next year, in 2012, Burton was awarded an Order of the British Empire (OBE) in recognition of her services to the British fashion industry.
In 2013, for Alexander McQueens’s AW13 show, Burton showcased arguably one of her most talked about runway collections. The 10-look collection was inspired by the formative years of Elizabethan England. Think communion, nuns, cardinals, popes and angels. Stiff collars were paired with intricate puffy-sleeved ball gowns embellished with an abundance of jewels and oversized crinolines. In classic Alexander McQueen fashion, models traipsed down the catwalk in subversive headgear that took the form of cages.
In 2019, Burton received the Trailblazer Award at The Fashion Awards. She was honoured in particular for her visionary approach to the McQueen SS20 collection and her championing of UK-wide craftsmanship.
In the same year, Burton's name cropped up again after Lady Gaga was seen sporting a timeless Alexander McQueen gown at the Oscars. Her jet-black opera dress featured padded hips and a drop waist and is what Gaga wore when she made history, becoming the first person to win an Oscar, Grammy, BAFTA and Golden Globe in the same year for her role in The Star is Born.
In 2023, Burton revisited her famous partnership with Princess Kate when designing her Coronation outfit. As exemplified by Kate's gown, Burton’s designs often featured crystal swirling embellishments.
Princess Kate wearing Burton for McQueen during her coronation.
Also in 2023, reports began swirling that Alexander McQueen's owner Kering would like to reposition the brand to drive growth. In September 2023, Burton shocked the nation when she waved goodbye to her glory days at the British fashion house.
Burton spent her 26-year career span at Alexander McQueen, where she showed her final collection on 30 September 2023.
Naomi Campbell on the runway at Burton's last show for Alexander McQueen.
At the time, Burton said: "I am so proud of everything I've done and of my incredible team at Alexander McQueen. They are my family, and this has been my home for the past 26 years. I want to thank François-Henri Pinault for believing in me and offering me this amazing opportunity. Above all, I want to thank Lee Alexander McQueen. He taught me so much and I am eternally grateful to him. I am looking forward to the future and my next chapter and will always carry this treasured time with me."
François-Henri Pinault, Chairman & CEO of Kering, added: "I am immensely grateful to Sarah, and I want to personally thank her for her work over the past two decades, first alongside Lee Alexander McQueen, where her role was instrumental to his success, and then as the Creative Director since 2010. Through her own experience, sensitivity and talent, Sarah continued to evolve the artistic expression of this iconic House. She kept and continued Lee’s heritage, attention to detail and unique vision while adding her own personal, highly creative touch."
After a year of waiting to see what Burton would do next, this week the curtain was finally drawn and it was revealed that the designer would be joining Givenchy as its newest Creative Director. Her first collection for the LVMH-owned house is due to be shown in March 2025.
In taking on the role at Givenchy, Burton follows in the footsteps of McQueen himself, who held the role between 1996 to 2001. Her reputation for exquisitely crafted tailoring and eveningwear would seem to be a perfect fit for Givenchy, which she has described as a "jewel".
She will be responsible for the creative direction of all of the women’s and men’s collections at Givenchy. She replaces American designer Matthew Williams, who stood down at the start of the year after three years in the role.
"It is a great honour to be joining the beautiful house of Givenchy, it is a jewel," Burton said. "I am so excited to be able to write the next chapter in the story of this iconic house and to bring to Givenchy my own vision, sensibility and beliefs."
Sarah Burton's career highlights in brief:
1996 - Burton began interning at Alexander McQueen while studying.
1997 - Hired full-time at Alexander McQueen after graduating from Central Saint Martins.
2000 - Appointed Head of Womenswear at Alexander McQueen.
2010 - Became Creative Director at Alexander McQueen upon Lee McQueen's death.
2011 - Designed Kate Middleton's wedding dress and was awarded Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards.
2012 - She was awarded an Order of the British Empire (OBE).
2019 - Sarah Burton received the Trailblazer Award at The Fashion Awards.
2023 - She exited Alexander McQueen.
2024 - Appointed Creative Director at Givenchy.
We await to see Burton's return under a house that isn't Alexander McQueen for the first time in her career.
Images: Courtesy of PA Media
