Saint Laurent delivers bold femininity and Parisian glamour at SS26 show

Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello, who has been at the helm of Saint Laurent since 2016, used Paris Fashion Week to remind everyone exactly what the brand stands for: sharp tailoring, sultry silhouettes and a distinctly Parisian kind of glamour.

The first look set the tone of the PFW show - an oversized pussy-bow blouse tucked into a leather pencil skirt, topped with a boxy jacket.

Oversized pussy-bows and exaggerated, sharp silhouettes stood out as a trend (AP/Aurelien Morissard)

From there, the catwalk delivered look after look of tough-yet-feminine style. Black-and-white leather, biker vests, over-the-knee boots and military-style caps dominated the runway.

The collection drew inspiration from the provocative photography of the late Robert Mapplethorpe, with its bold use of leather and clean, commanding lines.

Looks were peppered with leather and clean lines (AP Photo/Aurelien Morissard)

But Vaccarello also leaned into the softer, more romantic side of the Saint Laurent archive. The finale showcased a series of gowns inspired by artist John Singer Sargent’s infamous 1880s painting Madame X.

The dresses featured puffed sleeves, dramatic bustles and sweeping silhouettes – a reminder that elegance and drama can go hand-in-hand.

The finale featured ruffled gowns (AP/Aurelien Morissard)

The palette was full of carnation pinks, rusts and khakis (AP/Aurelien Morissard)

Romantic dresses featured in the show (AP/Aurelien Morissard)

Bella Hadid made her return to the runway. After taking time away from modeling, the 28-year-old strode through a striking garden set off with white hydrangeas, sculpted into Saint Laurent’s famous YSL logo, in a mustard vinyl trench coat with exaggerated Eighties shoulder pads.

Bella Hadid returned to the runway (AP/Aurelien Morissard)

Her appearance added extra star power to an evening that already felt like a supermodel reunion, with the likes of Linda Evangelista and Carla Bruni also present.

Bows and blouses stood out in the collection (AP/Aurelien Morissard)

Speaking backstage, Vaccarello told WWD that he wanted this to feel "as YSL as possible" for his 30th show at the house.

He’s been exploring the idea of ​​​​the Saint Laurent woman as both daring and refined.

"Louche by day, countess by night," was how Françoise Giroud, France’s former minister of culture, once described her – a phrase that stuck with him and fed into this collection.

The staging was just as considered as the collection – with the Eiffel Tower sparkling in the background, drones captured the hydrangea hedges carved into the brand’s famous logo. Even the air was scented with YSL’s iconic perfume Opium.

The show was set under the Eiffel Tower (AP/Aurelien Morissard)

Legendary muses Catherine Deneuve and Betty Catroux made an appearance, arriving with designer Jean Paul Gaultier, cementing the sense of fashion history at play.

While many designers this season are debuting collections for the very first time, Vaccarello’s approach was one of assurance.

He knows what works for Saint Laurent and he delivered it confidently: powerful leather looks, blouson blouses with oversized bows, airy trench coats that can be rolled up or hung over shoulders.

Lightweight trench coats were also a staple (AP/Aurelien Morissard)

The show managed to feel both nostalgic and modern. It captured the boldness and sensuality that has always defined the house, but it also gave space to more whimsical, romantic ideas.

For the audience - from Madonna to Moss - it was a reminder of why Saint Laurent remains one of fashion’s most glamorous tickets.

The likes of Hailey Bieber and Lila Moss joined the front row to watch the French fashion house unveil its SS26 collection.