Retailers make enthusiastic return to in-person buying at SS22 trade shows

There was an upbeat mood at Scoop x Pure, which returned to the Truman Brewery last week, with exhibitors sharing their positive outlook on the season and the connections that have been strengthened with new and old clients. There was also generally a feeling of a return to normal in terms of COVID-19, although the additional costs of Brexit weighed heavily on the minds of some exhibitors.

Buyers from Anthropologie, Fenwick, John Lewis, and ASOS were in attendance as well as a host of independent boutiques including The Place London, The Snooty Fox in Ireland, Velvet and Rose in Petersfield , Willow and Wolf in Marlborough and Collen and Clare in Suffolk.

David Smith, Director of Level 1 Showroom, said: "It's been fantastic. We've had a large September, which was the first show after lockdown and we had the most amazing show so I said to everyone before it won't be as busy as last time. But it has exceeded what we had then - new business, existing business, and everyone showing growth."

The multi-brand showroom has been running for five years and trades 16 brands, eight of which it brought to the Scoop x Pure show. He added that buyers interest had been good across the board, but its FRNCH collection had stood out especially.

"It is our biggest brand and their USP is that it's got quite a vintage feel about it but it's got a lot of colour. People love that. We've also had some great interest in the linen for the short order brands, and we're bringing that in March. Buyers have been positive I'd say. People had a good year last year despite covid and are looking forward to continue to grow. At the end of the day when large high street retailers have gone away people are still buying, and they are buying from independents more than they did so it's really good for them."

Nonetheless, he added, Covid had impacted the business. "It has been difficult for slightly more dressy brands, but all of our casual brands have performed very, very well and now that we've come out of Covid and people are allowed to come out again slightly dressier pieces have come into their own again." He also commented on the business pivot he started because of Brexit: "The biggest change I've made for the company is that we've become a distributor for all of the brands. Since Brexit buying from European brands has been a nightmare, all that paperwork and the costs, so we've taken that away from people and we do all that work for them and it's reaped large benefits for us and them."

Buyers at Scoop X Pure

The Scoop x Pure trade show presents a curated edit of fashion designers and labels from the UK and international brands, with a number of brands proudly displaying a "Made in France" sign on their stalls.

One of these brands was Mat de Misaine. Penny Stainthorp, UK agent for the French brand said on the show: "Yesterday [day one of the show] was very busy and today it was a bit less busy but still good. It's also been  very nice to see new customers and very interesting to be seeing people." The business has been trading for 30 years, and features a range of fabrics and products including outerwear, trousers and tops, all of which share a nautical theme and are designed in France. "The buyers absolutely love the collection," Stainthorp said. "Very often they'd chose a Liberty print and build something around that, a couple of coats, a trouser, the long skirts this time have been popular, a couple of blouses and then you've got a collection." In terms of trading over the past year and the impact of the pandemic she commented:

"We've got some very good independent stores and I'd say they've weathered the storm well, as well as they could have done. We've got a virtual showroom but it really doesn't make any sense unless you've touched the product and felt it. Once you understand the product you could look at it, if you had to, virtually and it would be okay. Our customers did that a year ago but the best way is to go and touch the product." When it comes to the impact of Brexit, however, her mood is less positive. "Brexit has impacted the business hugely. It has made everything essentially more difficult because you had COVID and then on top of that we had Brexit, so if we didn't have such a strong business and our heart weren't in it so much then we wouldn't be doing very well. Brexit hasn't been of any benefit whatsoever."

Another international brand that was represented at the show was 65-year old Joseph Ribkoff, with Mark Rowe, UK Sales Director commenting: "It's been good for us I have to say, new customers have come onboard which is what we wanted and it's very positive. It feels good to have the feeling of some normality again." He added that the reaction of buyers had also been positive and forward thinking. "The buyers know there's an appetite for products again so yes I'm happy. Product wise it's actually been good across sections, the more event dresses and the kind of smart casual wear has been doing very well. They are all saying they want dresses now." He added that because the company is based in Canada and trades directly with the UK Brexit had not been too much of an issue.

Karen Radley, Creative Director of Scoop and Pure said: "I am thrilled with how this season’s show has gone. We have had the most wonderful feedback from both buyers and designers who have written orders and reconnected with clients. It was lovely to welcome an exclusive selection of new designers this season, as well as some beautiful new collections from returning labels."

Meanwhile the JATC returned to London's Boiler House in Truman Brewery on 8 -10 February, showcasing over 120 brands across womenswear and menswear. The show said it attracted in excess of 1,000 visitors across its two days. Founder Juls Dawson described the first day as "mental" with buyers from the likes of ASOS, Harvey Nichols, Selfridges, Stitch Fix, Office, Debenhams, River Island, Urban Outfitters and Sole Trader attending.

"People are ready to engage, they are out and interacting, the desire to do face to face between buyers is back with a vengeance. There is lots of order writing going on and a lot of new relationships being built," Dawson said.

With "Plan B" restrictions lifted in the UK just before the trade shows opened their doors, buyers were finally ready to return to IRL buying appointments having endured two years of virtual appointments and socially distanced appointments. As Leslie Johnston, UK Sales Manager of sustainable brand Outerknown, and one of the exhibitors at JATC, commented: "It's been good I've had some customers come in to see the collection and they loved it which I think it's all about. I think for the UK markets it's about having the buyers coming in and feel the product because they've never had the opportunity before. They've placed orders but they have had wait until delivery hits to really feel it. It's alright telling buyers about the product and saying over Skype oh it feels beautiful, but until you get it in your hand it's not the same."

Following the co-location of Scoop and Pure during the pandemic, owner Hyve has confirmed that Pure will be back as a standalone event at London Olympia from July with a new dedicated jewellery destination, as further proof that the appetite for in-person buying (and relationship building) has not diminished as a result of Covid.