Peter Copping makes Lanvin debut for AW25
Peter Copping, who took the creative helm of Lanvin in September, unveiled his first collection for the house yesterday (26 January) in a co-ed show in Paris.
Copping opted for a very Lanvin aesthetic, having done extensive research via its archives, which included sketches, embroidery samples, interiors, and the actual clothes held by various Paris museums and several storage sites controlled by the luxury house.
For the show, Copping had lined up three moodboards backstage with various illustrations, print motifs, paintings by Tamara de Lempicka and Tsuguharu Foujita, photos of the late designer’s private apartment and of founder Jeanne Lanvin herself.
Founded in 1889, Jeanne Lanvin’s creative vision spanned women’s and men’s clothing, mother-and-child ensembles, perfumes and interiors.
The collection took the brand back to its roots, without being overwhelmed by them. The debut incorporated 1930s gilt and the dropped waists and ankle-skimming silhouettes of the 1920s.
Copping's first collection demonstrated an ability to take inspiration from the past and improve it, rather than purely replicating it. Copping added modern elements to the 1920s-30s-esque looks. The co-ed show saw models of all ages gracing the catwalk in a plethora of silhouettes that ranged from a Flapper-friendly bolero over a sheer top to baggy trousers and a-symmetric, deconstructed tailoring, particularly blazers and overcoats that were often oversized so as to obfuscate the figure beneath.
The devil was in the detail, too, with fringed lapels, mirror disc embellishments and extreme turtlenecks peering out from sequin evening gowns.
Stars of the show were a dropped-shoulder gold gown in a fabric just this side of aluminium foil, a black leather twist front sleeveless top, and a heavily embroidered men's blouse in a light beige that matched the black, white and beige geometric floor that was inspired by the bathroom of Lanvin herself.
"This collection is deeply personal – an homage to Jeanne Lanvin’s world and her intimate sense of style. I sought to project the essence of her wardrobe today while imagining it on a cast of modern characters — which I hope you’ll enjoy to discover," said Copping.