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NYFW Wrapped: This season's standout shows

Chloe Burney
12 February 2025

Who needs Spotify Wrapped when you can have New York Fashion Week Wrapped? Snowy scenes enveloped the concrete jungle as the fashion crowd ushered in Autumn/Winter 2025 collections. As the sun sets on NYFW, TheIndustry.fashion has created your very own cheat sheet for the best-of-the-best runway collections.

Fern Mallis, Industry Consultant and Founder of NYFW, told TheIndustry.fashion: "NYFW was all over the city and we navigated through snowy, very cold weather. I was surprised to see a revival of fur in so many shows… also lots of leather and feathers. The clothes were either very short or very oversized. Quiet luxury is not so quiet anymore."

From Christian Cowen's bubble gum dress made from silicone to Calvin Klein's oversized return to the runway, here is our curated list of the week's most talked-about runways.

Christian Cowen

As the first order of business, we must talk about Christian Cowan's AW25 show. The runway acted as a state for the designer's creative expression personified. Cowan's camp was on full display, from gum dresses made from silicone to resemble splattered bubble gum to skirts and bras made from shoes.

Studio82
Studio82

In addition to his ode to theatricality, the designer also sent his signature partywear down the runway - think corsets and lingerie-inspired dresses. Interestingly enough, the designer utilised the runway to express his creative vision, however, these looks won't be for sale, setting up for a refresh of the brand.

 

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Calvin Klein Collection

The Calvin Klein brand is synonymous with American fashion. So, when the news broke that Calvin Klein Collection would return to the runway for the first time since 2018, we knew it would be one to remember.

The iconic fashion house, known for its denim and instantly recognisable logo, is back with its new Creative Director Veronica Leoni (who previously lent a hand to the design teams at The Row, Jil Sander and Celine). With a wrap sheet as chic as hers, it was clear Leoni would lean in the direction of chic minimalism and boy did she.

Oversized silhouettes reigned supreme, from boxy blazers and larger-than-life scarves to classic camel trench coats and loose, body-skimming drapery.

 

 

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Christian Siriano 

Cars and fashion are like oil and water, or are they? According to Christian Siriano and his AW25 collection, the answer is 'no'.  This season, the designer blended his passion for cars with the allure of Hollywood glamour in a dazzling show that was a true match made in heaven.

Promising his star-studded 'frow' a thrilling experience, the American designer translated the sleek lines and glossy finishes of cars into striking red-carpet fashion that encompassed a bold racy red, blue, bronze and black colour palette.

Bronx and Banco

Have you noticed that New York's nightlife has been sparkling even more than usual as of late? Well, Bronx and Banco's glitter-infused AW25 collection might have something to do with it. Each look oozed 'unapologetic glamour', from sheer shirts to crystal cut-out dresses.

Natalie Banco's fresh take on maximum-impact eveningwear is a love letter to the women of New York, created to dress the city-goers in feathers, crystals and sheer mesh galore - a far cry from Calvin Klein Collection's minimalist hues and silhouettes.

 

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Carolina Herrera

A mainstay of New York Fashion Week, Carolina Herrera and its Creative Director Wes Gordon never fails to leave an impact. This season, Gordon was inspired by Jerzy Kosinski's book and Hal Ashby's film Being There. In Ashby's film, one of the designer's confessed favourites, a gardener rises to political prominence. In his show notes, Gordon said it made him think about "tending to our wardrobes the way he would tend to his garden—meticulously, with thoughtful care."

The botanical references are clear for all to see, splattered across voluminous gowns in black, deep maroons and dark purples, meanwhile, hot pink ballgowns blossomed down the runway. This moody colour palette was inspired by 'Rhythm Color' by Sonia Delaunay.

Photo Credit: PA Media

Tory Burch

It's official: Tory Burch is having a renaissance. Have you seen their accessories as of late? Wishlist worthy to say the least. Keeping the momentum going, the designer's show leaned into traditional American sportswear pieces with unexpected details and twists.

Successfully making the ordinary more desirable, Tory Burch elevated classic items by adding contrasting textures and intricate draping. The standout piece? Utilitarian ‘handbag jackets’ showcased in red, denim, and pitch black leather.

Photo Credit: PA Media

Coach

Paying homage to the city that never sleeps was a running thread this NYFW. Coach followed suit debuting its collection with a runway show held at the historic Park Avenue Armory in New York City’s Upper East Side.

Creative Director Stuart Vevers showcased his vision of American classics as interpreted by today’s generation. Vevers said: "My vision for Fall was to ground the collection in all the things that make Coach so distinct as a fashion house: our heritage materials and palette, our commitment to repurposing and “re-loving” secondhand garments through craft, and our belief in the power of community and self-expression."

The collection was defined by a oversized silhouette, from denim trousers to suiting fabric, balanced by shrunken T-shirts, sweatshirts and knits. Continuing to play with proportions, outwear came in the form of shrunken bomber jackets and floor-dusting trench coats.

Juzui

It's not necessarily Juzui's clothes that are on everyone's lips, it is the brand's models. Well, one model in particular. The brand tapped Elon Musk's chic mother, Maye Musk, to walk its runway for the second time.

The 76-year-old model and dietitian, who often makes appearing on red carpets look effortlessly cool, exuded confidence and elegance when she closed the Juzui show at the Glasshouse riverfront venue in Manhattan in a shimmering floor-length silver gown and white fur coat.

As for the clothes, Juzui balanced contemporary fashion and Eastern aesthetics, pairing feather high-low black skirts with v-neck jumpers ablaze with prints that harmoniously juxtaposed printed outerwear. Feathers and drapery were the order of the day on this runway, alike several others this season.

 

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Michael Kors

Michael Kors, the man, the myth, the American fashion legend, closed NYFW with a show Terminal Warehouse—the former location of the iconic 1990s Tunnel Nightclub—in Chelsea.

Fittingly, the AW25 collection was full of garms fit for the most elegant of NYC's club-goers, packed with sequins, sheer fabrics and chest-exposing blazers. Meanwhile, rich tones of chocolate and caramel flooded the runway as models showcased cosy knitted and shearling looks, which promised to add warmth to the colder seasons. This was emphasised by cosy blankets and oversized outerwear.

"This show was inspired by the laid-back elegance that imbues the spirit of our homes and our new Michael Kors Collection store on Madison Avenue," said designer Michael Kors. "Timeless, warm, modern, architectural yet sensual, I wanted the collection to exemplify cosy modernism and hands-in-the-pockets chic."


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