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MFW SS25: Prada presents weirdly wonderful new collection

TheIndustry.fashion
19 September 2024

Ground control to Miuccia Prada: the Italian label’s latest collection has given a futuristic space age spin to traditional fashion.

Prada’s SS25 womenswear collection had a star-studded front row, including actor Carey Mulligan, TikTok creator Dixie D’Amelio and the K-Pop boy band Enhypen – who are ambassadors of the label.

Prada SS25

Fans were screaming outside as K-pop boyband ENHYPEN entered the building (Luca Bruno/AP)

Miuccia Prada – the brand’s creative director, who has headed the label for 46 years – is known for her ability to prophesise the future of fashion, launching outlandish, seismic-force trends that ripple through the industry with lasting effects.

This collection was certainly no different. Together with her co-creative director, Raf Simons (who joined Prada in 2020), the duo married nostalgic workwear with sharp metallics and dynamic silhouettes – mixing the past and future into one.

Prada SS25

Space-age aesthetics were paired with more traditional skirts and loafers (Luca Bruno/AP)

Sixties A-line overcoats and Eighties pussy-bow blouses were paired with avant-garde alien headwear and silver studded skirts.

Prada SS25

Pussy-bow blouses were paired with alien headpieces (Luca Bruno/AP)

The collection featured metal spoons fashioned into tops paired with tailored wool coats, while suit trousers were tucked into patent orange wellington-like boots.

There was a disconcerting dystopian feel to the collection, as the minimal workwear presented was not polished, but rather scruffy, with upturned collars and crumpled trench coats. It’s perhaps a commentary on the end of the office – with remote working and digital drifting being today’s preference.

Spaceship-style bucket hats were presented throughout the show (Luca Bruno/AP)

Alongside the alien sunglasses and hole-embellished bucket hats, the collection had a sense of ethereality – adding a more delicate otherworldly character.

Leggings and bodysuits were swathed in sheer skirts and gowns, providing a gossamer fineness that lifted the ensembles, allowing them to simply drift down the runway.

One model’s sheer dress was adorned with feathers (Luca Bruno/AP)

Despite the forward-thinking take, Miuccia Prada revived some of the label’s classics, including their 1996 flat leather sandals and the platform Oxfords from 2011. By pairing these with circular cut, transparent leather garments, Prada blurred the lines between past and present design.

The season captured a unique balance between reality and fantasy, playing with contrasts in both form and function, as Prada and Simons offered yet another fresh take on the label’s enduring legacy.


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