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Maison Vivier pays homage to heritage and relaunches iconic 1950s styles

Chloe Burney
03 March 2023

Gherardo Felloni, Creative Director of Maison Vivier, has delved into the archives to inspire his latest collection, made up of sculpturesque silhouettes.

With his sculptural accessories, Roger Vivier was more than a shoemaker - he was an architect of silhouette. For Autumn/Winter 23, the creative director Gherardo Felloni celebrates the maestro of structure and rekindles the designer’s connection with couture.

Gherardo Felloni commented: "Monsieur Vivier changed the allure of women. His creations were neither unassuming nor decorative: they were designed purely for attitude. I wanted the strength and sensuousness of the allure to exclusively emanate from the accessories. These sculpturesque designs go beyond their purely ornamental role and define each look."

The collection was first presented at a Parisian townhouse in a carousel presentation, reminiscent of the couture presentations of the 1950s. In a timeless tribute, models were fully clad in black and adorned with accessories including heels, bags, jewellery, and gloves.

Each design celebrates the Parisian joie de vivre, such as the elegant beaded shoes, which rises up the leg like ivy.

Roger Vivier said: "The heel is the most important detail. It’s like the nose on a face: it is what provides character… when I develop a shoe, I approach it like a fashion designer, and I try to create a new line."

Roger Vivier said: "The heel is the most important detail. It’s like the nose on a face: it is what provides character… when I develop a shoe, I approach it like a fashion designer, and I try to create a new line."

Today, the Maison’s designs elaborate upon this unique form of expression, honouring the innovative, pioneering spirit of its founder. Gherardo Felloni strives to carry that innovative approach forward by integrating those techniques into this collection. This season, the Creative Director opts to rework the emblematic Viv’ Choc Me and Viv’ Choc Couture Cuissardes, which take inspiration from draping.

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