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London Fashion Week: Daniel Lee checks in at Burberry

Lauretta Roberts
21 February 2023

Daniel Lee's debut collection for Burberry, which was unveiled at the starriest of shows during London Fashion Week last night, was, as expected, a celebration of Britishness and the storied fashion house's signature check.

Checks came in bold colours emblazoned across everything from tailoring to blanket coats and knits, alongside another house motif, the Equestrian Knight Design, which Lee has revived.

As well as the house check, Burberry is best known, of course, for its trench coat and Lee served up a new, oversized version featuring pearls on the lapel, along with a deconstructed car coat, a duffle and an aviator, all in oversized silhouettes which emphasised the luxe, but relaxed look of the entire collection.

In the first images released last month to give a taster of Lee's creative expression for the brand, the English rose featured prominently and it made its appearance in the collection too, along with argyle and Aran knits and tartan-inspired kilts worn over trousers.

Lee made his mark in fashion by transforming the LVMH-owned Bottega Veneta brand with his outstanding footwear and accessories and it was no doubt this skill, which was central to Burberry's decision to sign him. Burberry needs strong footwear and accessories (in particular handbags) to be a truly global, luxury fashion force that can compete with its counterparts in Paris and Milan.

In keeping with the relaxed, outdoor feel of the collection, Lee delivered functional satchels and saddle bags in sturdy autumnal colours slung across the body or over the shoulder featuring a B motif, which also serves as the closure.

Footwear included "amplified" sneakers, sandals, mules and pumps in iterations including faux fur and shearling, as well as equestrian boots and rubber wellies. Many of the models also carried checked hot water bottles, which, if they make it store, are bound to be a Christmas gifting hit.


This was a coherent and confident first outing for Lee, who was appointed in September to replace Italian designer Riccardo Tisci. Along with new CEO Jonathan Akeroyd, who replaced another Italian, Marco Gobbetti, at this start of last year. Akeroyd had promised that along with Lee, Burberry would return to celebrating its British roots (and its British manufacturing with the trench coats shown on the catwalk made at its factory in Castleford), and this collection does just that.

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