As London Fashion Week rolls on, an array of designers have taken to the runway to unveil their latest spring/summer collections.
From the bold statements of Patrick McDowell and the sensual elegance of Dreaming Eli to the cutting-edge creativity of Fashion East and beyond, here are some standout moments from recent shows.
When the Princess of Wales handed Patrick McDowell the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design in May earlier this year, it wasn’t just a royal handshake but a public recognition of the young Liverpool-born designer rewriting the rules of luxury.
At London Fashion Week, McDowell proved why, turning deadstock lace, surplus brocade and family memories into The Lancashire Rose – a title acting as a double tribute to McDowell’s northern roots: the historic red rose of Lancashire and to their grandmother, whose sewing inspired their traditional yet ingenious designs.
McDowell’s style treads the line between vintage romance and theatrical drama without ever tipping into costume, and The Lancashire Rose collection showed that balance at its best.
Models walked in butter-yellow brocade jackets cut like armour; black satin slip dresses glittering with hand-applied crystals shaped like safety pins; sheer shirt-dresses covered in painterly red and black blooms.
Roses appeared everywhere as the show’s motif, embroidered, appliqued, layered into tulle or simply suggested in the way a skirt opened like petals.
It was easy to be drawn to the romance, but there was discernible substance to the collection. Beneath the ruffles and embroidery McDowell showed intense precision with his construction. Seams were finished as carefully as couture. Linings were cut from rescued silk.
For SS26, Ahluwalia presents Affinity, an exploration of the multifaceted nature of love - from tenderness to turbulence, intimacy to grandeur. The collection was staged at London’s NoMad Hotel, where historic architecture and a soaring glass atrium set a romantic, theatrical tone.
Creative Director Priya Ahluwalia explored how love is expressed across cultures and generations - its power to elevate, challenge, and connect. Rich cultural references included Nigerian Ichafu head wraps, Bollywood motifs, and nods to Oshun, the Yoruba goddess of love.
Elsewhere, ornamental patterns referenced the Taj Mahal and V&A Museum, conceived as grand gestures of devotion. Embellishments of pearls, marigolds, and precious stones recalled treasured gifts exchanged in rituals of love, balancing opulence with sentiment.
The collection's silhouettes reflected love’s duality through tension and release - draped, knotted fabrics suggested intimacy and strain, while sharp tailoring brought structure. Fringe details flowed freely yet tangled, attempting to capture love’s unpredictability. Meanwhile, a rich colour palette traced the emotional spectrum: scarlets for passion, jewel tones for devotion, and soft pastels for tenderness.
The industry’s most-watched incubator of new designers celebrated its 25th anniversary on Friday by presenting three new talents: Jacek Gleba, Mayhew and Nuba. The collections were shown just a stone’s throw away from Buckingham Palace, on The Mall, inside the ICA art space.
Mayhew kicked off proceedings with a collection "made by chance on purpose" - a contradiction that governed the collection, fostering clashing concepts that maintained tension rather than harmony. Tops splattered in paint (from actual painting and decorating, seemingly not Pollock’s brush) were unorthodoxly paired with jeans or pieces of material attached to the body. Fur also made an appearance in the models’ bags, hinting at an industrial primitivism at play.
Jacek Gleba, formerly a dancer, had the intersection of sport and fashion in mind with his collection, ‘It’s True’, which drew its inspiration from early 20th century sporting costume. The dawning of the modern age was felt in the athleisure wear utopianism, where geometrically cut and coloured leggings, windbreakers, and bodysuits seemed to adorn the revolutionary guard of a new age.
Finally, Nuba presented a minimalist antidote to his fellow designers with his collection, “Solid”, which intended to examine the identity of "confidence when it is tested". This ethos was translated into a sense of firmness and resilience through the pallid colour palette and angular outwear silhouettes over softer necklines. However, the restrained vision did take a left turn in the second-to-last look, as one model sported a particularly robust feather boa - perhaps that’s all anyone needs to be happy when push comes to shove?
All in all, Fashion East has indeed carried out with optimistic flair what the BFC’s CEO, Laura Weir, challenged London designers to do this week: “Show them what only London can do.”
To mark its 10-year milestone, RIXO made a much-anticipated return to the official London Fashion Week schedule, unveiling its SS26 collection titled We Are One - a vibrant, uplifting tribute to humanity.
In celebration of this special occasion, RIXO collaborated with the iconic British textile house Liberty Fabrics, creating a series of exclusive designs that reimagine Liberty’s legendary prints through RIXO’s signature lens.
The collection was presented in an artfully curated gallery space in Hanover Square, staying true to the brand’s roots: free-spirited, bold in colour and print, and infused with a vintage-inspired, feminine charm.
Over 350 guests - including VIPs, influencers, press, loyal customers, and friends of the brand - came together to celebrate RIXO’s decade of design and the launch of its SS26 ready-to-wear collection.
The full spring/summer 2026 collection, including the Liberty Fabrics collaboration pieces, will be available from March 2026 on rixolondon.com and in RIXO stores.
"My Name is Amore" marked a clear evolution for Dreaming Eli, showcasing a more refined approach to design, fabric selection, and emotional narrative. Building on themes explored in previous seasons, the collection shifts from a focus on endurance and resilience to a more nuanced investigation of softness and intention. It reflects a progression from survival to self-assured vulnerability, presenting a collection rooted in emotional depth and maturity.
Central to this collection is the idea of transformation. The Dreaming Eli woman - previously defined by rebellion, trauma, and strength - enters a new phase marked by self-acceptance and emotional exploration. This season pays tribute to the idea of surrendering to love and emotional honesty, not from a place of weakness, but from one of conscious choice and empowerment.
Fabric choices reinforce this theme. Tweed, traditionally associated with formality and structure, is reinterpreted with frayed seams and raw finishes, offering a fresh take on its classic identity. When paired with vinyl - a material known for its resilience and edge - the contrast highlights the tension between vulnerability and protection. Biker-inspired silhouettes further this juxtaposition, softened through tailoring and the visible texture of tweed, creating pieces that feel both assertive and intimate.
The collection continues its exploration of knitwear, employing new techniques to create layered, tactile textures that express both delicacy and durability. Colour plays a significant role, with a palette of creams, pinks, and browns evoking themes of skin, blood, and love. With spring/summer 2026, Dreaming Eli presents a woman who is no longer just navigating the world but is actively shaping and embracing her own transformation.
