LFW SS25 Highlights: Richard Quinn, Roksanda, Simone Rocha and more...
As London Fashion Week continues, more designers take to the catwalk to showcase their spring/summer collections. From Roksanda and Simone Rocha to Richard Quinn, and more, here are some highlights from recent shows.
Roksanda hosts Regency-inspired LFW show with contemporary cuts and extravagant eveningwear
Serbian-born, London-based designer Roksanda Ilincic established her brand in 2005, making a name for herself with a bold and sophisticated approach to womenswear. Her designs have been frequently worn by the Princess of Wales and Hollywood stars like Cate Blanchett and Anne Hathaway, who have all fallen for her stand-out colour blocking, modern cuts and sculptural silhouettes.
For this latest collection, Roksanda’s took a leaf out of the Bridgerton fashion playbook, combining Regency-inspired outfits with contemporary cuts and extravagant eveningwear. The show was certainly a step into spring, with the colour palette including burnt umber, as well as bursts of pale pink, yellow and tangerine orange.
Set against the backdrop of the Brutalist Space House in Covent Garden, structure was key to Roksanda’s latest collection – with tailored eveningwear, draped shirts and sharp pleating.
The offbeat silhouettes Roksanda has become known for were also well and truly present, with excessive sculptural bows and rustling feathered fringing seen on the runway. Yet the collection was softened with flowing silhouettes – each dress seemingly catching a breeze, demonstrating the sculptural volume of the garment in motion.
Richard Quinn brings the 'tradwife' aesthetic to the runway in Fifties-inspired LFW collection
Richard Quinn’s latest London Fashion Week collection showcased Fifties-inspired silhouettes, seemingly channelling the 'tradwife' aesthetic that has recently taken TikTok by storm. The trend glamorises 1950s suburbia through rose-tinted glasses – and while some aspects of it are somewhat controversial, Quinn’s designs firmly steered clear of any potentially murky areas.
Instead, he zeroed in on the Fifties fashion inspirations of the trend, evoking the timeless elegance of style stars like Grace Kelly through his romantic eveningwear and bridal gowns.
At first, it seemed Quinn pulled this collection back to bare simplicity: his gowns were not as avant-garde as we’ve previously seen, but they soon exploded into maximalism. Feathers plumed from porcelain white dresses, ruffles rippled from hemlines, and balloon hemlines blossomed from every seam. Many models wore veils and evening gloves – injecting a sense of traditional elegance – but it wasn’t all prim and proper. The Quinn-tessential contemporary edge brought the looks into 2025, with voluminously rounded hemlines, pointed collars, and one pluming feather gown that virtually engulfed a model.
And while the show started with a predominantly black-and-white colour palette – like watching the runway on a Fifties television – splatters of red soon came into frame, followed by a blooming spring palette of buttercup yellows, sky blues and pale pinks.
Simone Rocha champions beautiful balletcore
If you thought tutus were just for ballerinas, Simone Rocha’s latest fashion collection proves different. Her spring/summer 2025 London Fashion Week took the idea of a tutu to new heights – while also giving it a darker edge.
As we’ve come to expect from the Irish designer, Rocha’s collection toed the line between coquettish and melancholy – her designs captivated an eerie romance, as childlike tutus were drenched in vivid reds.
Accessories were also of note. Some of the models carried organza-covered clutch bags that looked like rolled-up tutus – which could very well become one of the ‘it’ bags of the season. She also showed her more experimental approach to fashion, with statement bows, deconstructed overcoats and sheer overlays revealing the fragile details of each model’s body.
The rose motif has become something of a Rocha signature, and they were embellished across skirts, tops and trousers, while also being incorporated as accessories as models graced the runway with blushing bouquets.
Rocha’s introduction of daring design coups and deeper hues managed to tie together the demure frivolity of balletcore with something darker and more grown-up.
Karoline Vitto turns models into modern-day goddesses in her first solo runway show
For the first time in her career, Karoline Vitto steps out solo. With two Fashion East shows and a season showing with the support of Dolce & Gabbana in Milan under her belt, the Brazilian-born, London-based designer is breaking up the band to pursue her SS25 collection on the 180 Strand.
This season, the designer brought stormy Rio de Janeiro to the heart of London. Despite the rumblings of thunder and flashes of lightning, Karoline Vitto’s women stand tall and strong against the elements. The models resembled goddesses as if they were emerging from the water in Vitto's signature draped dresses.
To note, to push forward the sustainable fashion agenda, the powdery pink jersey used to form pieces in the collection is made from ImagePYRATEX seacell fabrics, which incorporate a seaweed-based fibre.
As for embellishments, Karoline Vitto's curved metal accents are also reimagined for her latest collection. This time, in collaboration with Brazilian jewellery designer Carlos Penna, metal hardware was used to shape and support the garments. These sculptural metal closures are now also water-resistant and bendable, meaning they can be adjusted to any body shape, which can be seen on the positively inclusive runway.
The collection, dubbed Undertide, embodies the "resilience and spirit of women" who weather storms, both in a literal and metaphorical sense.