LFW SS25 Highlights: Erdem, JW Anderson, Marques’Almeida and more...
London Fashion Week continues to create a buzz as more designers take to the catwalk to showcase their spring/summer 2025 collections. From JW Anderson and Marques’Almeida to Edeline Lee, and more, here are some highlights from recent shows.
Marques’Almeida makes elegance 'cool' with edgy florals at London Fashion Week
Marques'Almeida’s spring/summer 2025 show displayed an array of the label’s classic uneven hemlines and deconstructed silhouettes – but this time, florals and frills reigned supreme, as their clothes continued to encompass a fun and rebellious verve.
"The collection is an evocative fusion of historic grandeur and rebellious modernity," said the show notes description. "Drawing on the lavish aesthetic of 17th century Dutch paintings and Baroque influences, the collection transforms these traditional inspirations into something fiercely contemporary."
This collection was a continuation of the Portuguese design duo’s Resort 2024 collection, with a heavy focus on Elizabethan opulence with jacquard fabrics and floral prints, drawing upon the idea of ‘antique’ with raw edges and deconstructed silhouettes.
Marques’Almeida experimented with heavy brocade fabrics, reworked into voluminous two pieces, skirts, and extra wide bell bottoms. The designers also reinterpreted denim through jacquard imprinted jeans and structured corsets, as well as showcasing exaggerated flares, romantic ruffles and nipped waists. The eclectic array of footwear – from platform trainers adorned with bows, pointed Croc heels and deep-hued kitten heels – encompassed the contrasting nature of the collection.
Erdem blends masculine and feminine dressing, taking inspiration from author and poet Radclyffe Hall
For spring/summer 2025, Erdem explores the push and pull of masculine and feminine dressing and identity. The designer takes inspiration from ‘The Well of Loneliness’ by Radclyffe Hall, which tells the story of Stephen Gordon, a woman living as a man, and her relationship with Mary Llewellyn. Today, ‘The Well of Loneliness’ is said to be lauded as a "queer tract of enduring relevance", relatable to new audiences exploring the boundaries of gender, self-expression and love.
In the novel there are moments of great tenderness and timeless beauty alongside the anguish. One episode that stayed with Erdem is when Stephen is being measured for a suit on Savile Row; beyond a fitting it feels like an awakening. As a result, certain looks in the show had been handmade in collaboration with Savile Row tailors Edward Sexton.
The collection pays homage to Stephen and Mary, and also to Radclyffe and her partner Una Troubridge. The parameters of menswear and womenswear are blurred and juxtaposed, playfully and confidently, within the collection. Masculine suits appeared in dusky pink and pistachio, while tailoring merged with drop-waisted silhouettes of the 1920s. Slouchy men’s cardigans and blazers were worn over tea dresses and cyanotype prints of flapper dresses on loosely structured garments were heavily embellished with jewels.
JW Anderson channels timeless elegance for SS25, championing simplicity and form
The TikTok trend for anything and everything that’s 'demure' doesn’t seem to be going anywhere, judging by JW Anderson’s latest show.
The designer’s spring/summer 2025 collection focused on timeless elegance, allowing the structure of the clothes to talk more than embellishments, trims or details.
The designer maintained his unique aesthetic by combining traditionally feminine and masculine silhouettes, with models walking the runway in oversized bulbous blazers and bulky knitted sweater vests.
The show was a lesson in simplicity and form – and while it was demure, it wasn’t without a sense of fun. Hemlines were short and flirty, while entirely sequinned dresses added a bit of disco-inspired excitement to the runway.
Edeline Lee showcases sculptural sirens on the go for SS25
You know it's going to be a full-on performance when a designer collaborates with a choreographer, and Edeline Lee's SS25 runway show didn't disappoint. In tandem with choreographer Shelley Maxwell, the audience was invited into a bustling, fantasy town square.
The models, which appeared from all angles, swooped in - one walking their dog, one stopping to read the newspaper, and more - all appearing to be in several places at once. As the models crisscrossed around the runway, they were seen sporting fluid silk dresses, juxtaposed with polka dot gowns paired with sculptural crinolines that distorted the figure creating sculptural sirens that were reminiscent of yesteryear. Meanwhile, streams of models were ushered into Millbank Tower's Courtyard wearing identical dresses.
"For me, SS25 is an opportunity to invite people into our world and present the meaning and the purpose behind the brand: to serve women, to design clothes that make them feel polished, ready, and powerful," said the designer. "I think of the women who wear my clothes as superhuman; They can almost be in two places at once! That's how the doppelganger theme in the show developed."
This season also saw two firsts for the brand - the launch of Edeline Lee Girl as well as its first footwear launch. A swarm of girls, dressed in miniature versions of the model's looks, appeared on the runway holding white balloons. They sported replica voluminous sequin dresses as well as navy boat neck numbers - perfect for some mother-daughter dressing. As for the shoes, Edeline Lee crafted ivory coloured pointed toe block heeled pumps, made specifically to accompany the Edeline Lee wardrobe.
Burberry brings back ultra low-rise trousers in utilitarian collection
Gen Z has been doing its best to bring low-rise trousers back, and now Burberry has given them the high fashion seal of approval. Ultra low-rise trousers populated the British heritage brand’s spring/summer 2025 collection, shown in the halls of the Brutalist National Theatre building on London’s South Bank.
A more utilitarian edge than we’ve ever seen at Burberry also ran throughout the clothes, giving them a more streetwear-inspired vibe. The base Burberry garments were there – sharply tailored jackets, trench coats and trousers – with plenty of straps, buttons, zippers and buckles added into the mix. However, there were some flashes of fun – like the floral pattern that cropped up, or the sparkling backless halter-neck dress that closed the show.
The colour palette was predominantly neutral, with camels, creams, blacks and greys galore, and the odd pop of colour – a flash of lilac in footwear, or a burst of yellow in a scarf tied around a neck. The neutral colours emphasised this utilitarian aesthetic - some models wore belted camel coats with matching cargo trousers, looking like they were about to step off the runway to fly a plane.
For accessories, one particularly eye-catching piece was the large hobo-style bag models had slung over their shoulders. Elsewhere, small, sparkly bags were statement pieces to rival it-bags like Fendi’s baguette style, and Lee seemed to be taking inspiration from Noughties eyewear with huge, bug-like sunglasses covering models’ faces.