LFW AW26: Highlights from Paul Costelloe, Kseniaschnaider, Tolu Coker and more...

The autumn/winter 2026 season of London Fashion Week is in full swing, with designers across the capital pushing craftsmanship in new and considered directions.

From the first collection at the house of Paul Costelloe following the founder’s passing, to denim reimagined by Kseniaschnaider, royal front rows at Tolu Coker and theatrical nostalgia from Patrick McDowell, this season reflects a city balancing heritage with forward momentum. Here's some highlights so far...

Paul Costelloe house unveils first collection since designer’s death

The Paul Costelloe show marked a pivotal moment for the Irish fashion house, long defined by its founder, who passed away in November. It is now under the creative direction of his son, William Costelloe, who described AW26 as "a fresh start" for the brand.

The collection leaned on a refined, restrained palette of grey, taupe, mocha and black, with silhouettes that carried historical resonance. Opera gloves and exaggerated shoulders reinforced a sense of structured opulence. Meanwhile, eveningwear featured ballgowns adorned with Paul Costelloe’s signature illustrative drawings, a subtle way of weaving the founder’s hand into this new chapter.

The show opened with a tailored Irish tweed jacket from Magee, chosen by Paul Costelloe last autumn. Traditional Irish textiles, a hallmark of the house, featured throughout the collection, while bold detailing, broad shoulders, and structured silhouettes paid tribute to the founder’s signature style - reimagined under William’s direction.

As William took his bow at the end of the show, the audience responded with a standing ovation, signalling that his intentions had been realized. The collection did not shy away from the founder’s legacy; instead, it embraced it, combining Irish craftsmanship and bold design with new creative energy. While the name above the door remains the same, this season underscored that a new generation is now shaping the future of the Paul Costelloe brand.

Kseniaschnaider reimagines denim for autumn/winter 2026

Ukrainian fashion brand Kseniaschnaider presented an exploration of denim beyond its conventional role as a fabric. The AW26 collection challenged expectations through unconventional forms and engineered constructions, transforming denim into a platform for creative experimentation and welcoming a fresh perspective on the possibilities of one of fashion’s most iconic textiles.

During the show, denim was explored in multiple states: knitted, printed, quilted, reconstructed and displaced. Knitted jeans and jackets replicated traditional denim construction in yarn, maintaining the logic of the garment while abandoning the fabric itself.

Construction remained a central focus, with the brand deconstructing denim’s signature gold topstitching and redeploying it as ornamentation and drawing. Gold stitching traces the outlines of garments in both menswear and womenswear, forming embroidered denim-shaped motifs. The collection also embraced materials such BROD-X, a textile developed from recycled denim waste, demonstrating a commitment to sustainability alongside creativity.

Menswear direction also returned with Multipocket constructions, extending the original Kseniaschnaider Men line by Anton Schnaider. Additionally, the second Kseniaschnaider × Lee Cooper collaboration brought together Lee Cooper’s British denim heritage with Kseniaschnaider's experimental approach, "merging archival craft with progressive manipulation".

King Charles III takes front row at Tolu Coker as Topshop capsule unveiled

Taking his place front row at Tolu Coker’s AW26 show at 180 Studios in London, King Charles III sat alongside fashion designer Stella McCartney and British Fashion Council CEO Laura Weir to view the designer's latest collection. The show offered a rare glimpse into the intersection of contemporary fashion and royal patronage, with the King observing the work firsthand.

His attendance marked the first time a senior royal has taken a front-row seat at LFW since 2018. That year, the late Queen Elizabeth II made headlines when she appeared at designer Richard Quinn’s show, before presenting him with the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design. The presence of the King signalled a continued royal interest in supporting British creativity on the global stage.

Coker, who launched her label after graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2018, is part of a new generation of designers reshaping London’s creative landscape. Known for exploring diasporic Black identity through largely unisex silhouettes rooted in deconstruction and sustainability, the British-Nigerian designer once again blended meticulous craftsmanship with contemporary storytelling.

The show previewed an 18-piece capsule for Topshop, launching in spring 2026. Inspired by Coker’s London upbringing, the collection features expert tailoring, sculptural denim, directional knitwear, sharp blazers, pleated trousers and statement jumpsuits. All runway footwear was provided by luxury brand Manolo Blahnik.

Annie’s brings florals, fringe and feathers as it introduces ‘elevated’ brand identity

Annie’s delivered a rich display of vintage glamour at Spencer House during London Fashion Week, filling the neoclassical interiors with florals, feathers and high-shine embellishment. Presented against a backdrop of marble statues, gilded archways and sweeping staircases, the collection embraced Annie’s signature: opulence.

It leaned heavily into Annie’s signature codes: vintage-inspired shapes, couture-level beadwork and a confident embrace of maximalism, with saturated colour and ornate detail - proving that vibrant, statement dressing has a place even in February.

Texture played a central role. Tapestry-style florals in burnished orange, teal and gold were cut into high-necked dresses with sculpted shoulders, while metallic threads, fringe and tassels added movement, and feathers received full theatrical treatment.

Gold lattice embroidery, jewel-toned floral prints and richly textured fabrics referenced antique upholstery and heirloom textiles, yet the cuts remained contemporary - high-cut briefs, tailored jackets and structured bodices anchoring the historical references in the present.

AGRO Studio explores identity and adventure in AW26 'The Wanderer'

AGRO Studio is a London-based fashion label founded by George Oxby and Angus Cockram. Known for their bold and uniquely British style, they create high-impact bespoke garments and seasonal co-ed collections. Each piece is made-to-order in small quantities at their East London studio.

The brand draws on traditional skills like corsetry, tailoring and leatherwork. AGRO sees fashion as more than clothing - it’s a way to express character and identity. Its garments are designed to help the wearer feel empowered and confident in their own self-defined style.

The AW26 collection, called The Wanderer, was inspired by people on endless journeys, whether literal or psychological. The line includes Icelandic sheepskin in natural rust, grey and black, leather aviator jackets, ripstop fabrics, hand-dyed asymmetric knits, and shiny metallic pieces - with texture playing an important role.

Denim and leather pieces featured ram and bull motifs, inspired by classic Americana labels but seen through a folkloric lens. Traditional fabrics and natural hides were mixed with new textiles created in-house from tinsel and crystal, while hand-beaded tailoring, eveningwear and prints were influenced by Russian painter Bakst.

Vin + Omi spotlight nature, innovation and charity as Dame Prue Leith returns to catwalk

Eco-designers Vin + Omi unveiled their latest collection, "JORD: Bring Back Nature", at an off-schedule London Fashion Week AW26 show earlier this week. It marked the launch of a new collaboration with the British Heart Foundation, bringing together sustainable fashion and charitable purpose in a powerful creative statement.

The collection itself focused on reconnecting fashion with the natural world, using plant-based textiles, recycled materials and traditional techniques. Celebrities including Dame Prue Leith and stylist Jo Wood walked the catwalk wearing garments made from holly, nettles, butterbur, wood clippings and recycled aluminium.

Leith walked the runway in a pink ruffled shirt and orange suit, with a floral headpiece. Her tailored suit was made from fabric developed using waste clippings of holly from the Sandringham Estate, part of the designers’ ongoing collaboration with King Charles III.

Elsewhere, technicolour stole the spotlight on the runway, with bold, clashing tones softened by unexpected harmony, while distressed textures and punctured fabrics delivered the punk edge Vin + Omi are known for - reinforcing that sustainability need not be subdued.

Patrick McDowell nods to Dior’s New Look in theatrical showcase

Patrick McDowell presented a theatrical and emotionally charged AW26 collection, “The Gaze”, at London Fashion Week. Inspired by George Platt Lynes, the collection explored form and observation, staged at Rambert with a dramatic performance element that underscored its cinematic tone.

Silhouettes led the narrative, with exaggerated hourglass waists and sharp tailoring nodding to Dior's New Look. Peplums, pussy-bow blouses and structured outerwear added polish, while a palette of black, deep plum and ivory heightened the drama.

Silk draped gowns and corseted bodices evoked old Hollywood glamour, balanced by tailored coats and waistcoats that grounded the romance. Statement headpieces completed the look, reinforcing the collection’s vintage references while keeping the execution modern.

With “The Gaze”, McDowell combined theatrical staging, classic tailoring and a disciplined palette to deliver a collection that felt both nostalgic and refreshing. By framing glamour through the lens of sustainability and authorship, they offered a show that was as thoughtful as it was visually arresting.