LFW AW26: Highlights from Labrum, Bora Aksu, Lueder and more...

From 18th-century folklore and Irish pubs to intimate studies of female friendship and a bold insistence on size inclusivity, London Fashion Week has unfolded as a tapestry of deeply individual narratives.

Here, garments are not simply worn; they tell stories, conjure memories, and channel the distinct aesthetics of the designers behind them. Below are some more LFW highlights from TheIndustry.fashion team...

Bora Aksu awakens an 18th-century ghost for autumn/winter 2026

British designer Bora Aksu created a collection inspired by history, emotion and folklore. He looked to an 18th-century English tale about innocence, betrayal and a lingering spirit. The story centres on Suki, a young barmaid whose tragic fate in the caves near West Wycombe became part of local legend.

While researching, Aksu stayed at the historic George & Dragon, where Suki once lived and worked. He also visited the Hellfire Caves and followed the path of her final journey. Being in these places helped him connect deeply with the story, allowing the atmosphere, history and emotion of the setting to shape the designs.

The collection explores the space between life and afterlife, combining structured 18th-century workwear details - such as fitted bodices, aprons and lacing - with light, flowing shapes that feel ghostly and timeless.

The colour palette was soft and muted, with shades of chalk, ivory and faded white, inspired by Suki’s white dress and her imagined spirit. Light fabrics like tulle, silk organza and voile created a floating effect, while delicate crochet flowers added a slightly dark, unsettling beauty. Details like raw edges, faded textures, bows, and gathered necklines gave the garments a romantic yet haunting feel in this tribute to Suki.

Cultural osmosis at Labrum AW26

Labrum AW26 presented a deliberately globe-trotting collection, taking inspiration from Freetown, Cyprus and London’s Houses of Parliament, close to where the show took place today. The collection, titled Threads of Osmosis, drew on fabrics and designs from around the world to showcase a curated wardrobe for the understated yet formal wearer. The designs centred on patterns and cultural accents, woven into the context of sharp British tailoring, to transform classic silhouettes into something exciting and deeply personal.

The location was equally purposeful. A stone’s throw from the Houses of Parliament, it was clear that culture -wherever its origins and whoever its wearer - exists at the heart of our society. However, the significance of all this heritage should not be construed as metaphorical, as the show’s notes made clear. Instead, clothes are history in motion, not recorded through dates but through people and ideas. Accordingly, the collection was not a loud statement of identity but a quiet nod to the people, places and shapes that inspired it. In the first look, for example, we saw a refined man-about-town military suit in perfect taupe monochrome, while its bag made a subtle nod to the cultural osmosis that forms the collection’s DNA.

Suiting was the standout silhouette of the collection, embodying the idea of osmosis, where every culture referenced was altered by another and vice versa - recognisable, that is, without merely imitating. The suiting pattern, for instance, ironically showcased a colour-blocking "computer-matrix" pattern in emerald and teal, reminiscent of the designer’s native "wax-print" or "Ankara" pattern. From a distance, it looked like one thing, yet upon closer inspection, it revealed something richer - a mantra that could perhaps define the collection as a whole.

Accessories and finer details were another highlight of the collection. While jewellery such as brass earrings (in collaboration with Florence West) drew the eye, leather sac-bags in muted organic tones demonstrated the collection’s understated nature. In anticipation of the brand’s collaboration with Adidas, we saw cowrie shell artwork referencing traditional West African hand embroidery, both in manipulated fabric hemming and in a striking veil woven into the model’s hair.

Sinead Gorey brings Irish pub culture to catwalk

Sinead Gorey turned an Irish pub into a London Fashion Week runway. Staged in The Crypt at St James’s Church, Clerkenwell, the underground venue was bathed in dim red light, with pool tables along the catwalk and a bar at the end. Models paused to chalk cues or sip from bottles, blending performance with presentation.

The autumn/winter 2026 collection showcased Gorey’s signature exaggerated hourglass silhouettes - broadened shoulders, cinched waists and sculpted hips - paired with military jackets, structured tailoring, and reworked corsetry in technical fabrics, blending heritage femininity with modernity.

Details like exposed zips, studs, fishnet panels, fringe and furry trims added texture and edge, while a palette of blacks, browns, oxblood and pool-table green echoed the pub setting. Glossy finishes and heavy outerwear suggested both lacquered tables and London’s cold streets.

A playful collaboration with Desperados also appeared in bottle-cap jewellery and bottle-holder belts. Beneath the theatrics, the show explored tradition, rebellion and femininity, capturing the moments that shape a night out long before the club doors open.

Dreaming Eli pushes corsetry to the extreme in exploration of female friendship

Dreaming Eli wowed London Fashion Week with her autumn/winter 2026 collection, The Court of the Maddest, Merriest Things Alive. Sicilian designer Elisa Trombatore fused female empowerment with sensuality, using a palette of nudes and blacks, lace, and tulle to balance softness with theatricality.

Corsets dominated the runway, often exposed or frayed, paired with draped skirts, sheer panels, and delicate details such as butterflies or veiled crowns, highlighting strength, fragility and vulnerability in equal measure.

The silhouettes were unmistakably feminine but commanding: lingerie-inspired shapes, towering heels, and precise tailoring sculpted the body, while flowing fabrics added movement, depth, and a romantic undertone.

The show closed with Trombatore joining a model on the runway in matching corseted mini silhouettes, one in black lace and one in ivory, reinforcing the collection’s themes of solidarity, female strength, and a confident, cohesive narrative through repeated corseted forms and commanding presence.

Lueder takes 'bolder, angrier and sexier' approach in AW26 NEWGEN showcase

Lueder presented Ghosts of My Life at London Fashion Week NEWGEN, a collection exploring themes of fear, anger, nostalgia and mental health, in what the brand describes as a "bolder, angrier and sexier" side of Lueder.

Central to the collection was Lueder's signature pattern cutting, which delivered a bespoke feeling within ready-to-wear. The AW26 collection also marked the debut of pinstriped suiting, reimagined with a deliberately casual, subversive approach, highlighting the designer's background in bespoke tailoring while pushing boundaries and challenging expectations of formality.

The technical aspects of the collection were underscored by fabric choices such as a futuristic flocked nylon camouflage, developed with support from an Italian mill. This material added a sharp contrast to "the emotional and ornamental elements of the show".

Music played a vital role in amplifying the atmosphere of Ghosts of My Life, with Lueder collaborating closely with Danny Harle to create an original soundtrack for the show. Casting choices also reflected the brand's commitment to community, bringing together a diverse mix of models, musicians, and creatives from London’s vibrant music scene.

Karoline Vitto champions size diversity with Pull&Bear collaboration collection

Karoline Vitto’s autumn/winter 2026 show emphasised that body diversity should be standard, not a trend. The Brazilian-born designer presented a runway cast from XS to curvy sizes, all wearing the same fluid, body-conscious silhouettes, embedding inclusivity into the collection’s structure rather than treating it as a theme.

A cream slip dress set the tone, with a central cut-out and gentle drape that highlighted natural contours without constriction. Silk separates and jersey pieces in rich tones offered sculptural shapes that adapted across sizes, while precise cut-outs and ruched panels enhanced curves subtly. Even utilitarian-inspired looks retained a sensual edge, blending tailoring with exposure.

The collaboration with high-street brand Pull&Bear made Vitto’s sculptural designs accessible. Fluid skirts, silk slips and soft jersey dresses translated her runway vision into wearable pieces without losing sophistication.

Ultimately, the show underscored Vitto’s philosophy: transparency and fluidity may be trends, but the core message was clear - design always begins with the body in front of you.